Ryland Craze

15 minutes ago, Dougal Mack said:

Sorry, but my photos would be better if there was a space between each - can anybody help me with a tip on how to do this?

Good start on your longboat and a very detailed build log.  When you are inserting pictures in your build log, you can place your cursor at the bottom right corner of the picture and hit the enter key twice.  This will leave a blank space between the picture and you will be ready to post text or another picture where the flashing text cursor line is located.  The good thing is you can place pictures wherever the flashing text cursor line is in your text.  Experiment with this as you can always correct your document before you hit "Submit Reply".

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You did a good job on your first wooden boat model.  I look forward to seeing your future projects.

Welcome to Model Ship World TK.  Many of us started out building plastic models.  We look forward to seeing whatever ship model you should decide to build.

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You have a beautifully built Syren.  I am glad you have found this site and hope you share your future builds with us.

42 minutes ago, Penfold said:

One question... when the man does his decking and second planking, he uses ‘contact adhesive’. What product, or equivalent, would that be? (I’m in the UK).

Thanks.

I have never used contact glue for second planking or decking.  I have always used PVA (yellow glue or Titebond).  I would think contact cement would leave no room for error as it would be hard to adjust once the plank is placed on the model.

Glad to have you back on Model Ship World Kev.  I am looking forward to seeing your reconstructed build log.

The OcCre Beagle would be a good next step as the build is documented by 130 YouTube videos.  Another option would be the HMS Alert from Vanguard Models.  The designer, Chris Watton, is a member of MSW and would be available to answer any questions and.  Here is a link to that model: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-alert-premium/

Thanks Tom for your comments.  It would be interesting to see the mast stepped on a full size boat and the rigging attached by the crew.  Lots of lines to be attached and tensioned.

I look forward to follow this restoration.  I feel we are in for a very educational experience.

Beautiful model Simon.  The finish is near.  Thanks for sharing your progress.

Thanks Michael, Rusty and Bob for your comments and for the "Likes".

Michael, I also enjoyed your visit to the SMSNJ Zoom meeting.  I have enjoyed the Zoom meetings of the various clubs that I attended over the last ten months.

Welcome to Model Ship World Jose.  Your English is just fine.  You will find that ship model kits have improved greatly over the last forty years.  We have a lot of build logs that you can review before you decide on your next project.  Hope you enjoy your retirement and this site.

Congratulations on finishing your Alert.  It is a beautiful model and I have enjoyed following your build log.

Congratulations on competing this beautiful model.  I am sure you are proud of this build.  Job well done!

I have an older version of the NWSL Chopper.  It has served me well for many years.  You can still find the original on Amazon.

Thanks for the "Likes" and also Chuck and Brian for your comments.

4 hours ago, GuntherMT said:

I haven't read that far ahead in the instructions, but would the rigging on a longboat actually have been served given how often it would be rigged/de-rigged in use on a large ship?

Brian, that is a good question.  I do not know what the correct answer is, but Chuck mentions in the instructions that they were served.  He said this was optional and that it looks nice.  I like the look and feel it is an added detail.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:

Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

15 hours ago, bobandlucy said:

I think this will be remedied by transferring the bevel marks on the lower stern transom to the other side, and flipping it.

Bob, I think your solution is correct.  I downloaded the instructions from the Model-Expo site and the drawing on page three shows the bevels on the two part transom.  As long as your parts match the drawing, you should be fine.  This kit builds into a very nice model and I look forward to following your progress.

Marty, Welcome to Model Ship World.  Another source of tools and supplies are craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Michaels. 

On 1/31/2021 at 2:32 PM, FarmerJon said:

I have been looking at your longboat build Ryland specifically to help figure out where I have one wrong with my planking. I'm sure now that I didn't calculate my planks correctly but still trying to figure out what the correct procedure actually is. It doesn't seem you can simply divide all station depths by your number of planks? I did this and my numbers prompted me to make those aggressively tapered planks at the top. That has resulted in needing 4 + planks at the stem and 3 fulls or 4 very narrow planks at frame 4-5. I think I have to de bond my skinny planks and try again. Im not having any trouble bending and shaping planks, but don't feel I have a reliable procedure for measuring/planning them out? Are most people just pencil marking them out on the frames ahead of time? Im thinking the spreadsheet method is the way to go Im just missing something.

 

Guess its off to buy some CA debonder.......... haha

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you need to remove planks 3 and 4 from the top as they are too narrow at the bow.  As it looks now, the three planks remaining will not cover the opening at the bow.  After removing the two planks, I would remeasure using tick strips.  This is explained in Part Two of the instructions for the Medway Longboat, which is a 1:24 scale version of your Longboat.  Here is a link to the Instructions:  

There are also many topics on planking located at the top of this page under the More tab.

I think you got off track by dividing the measurement for frame H by 10 instead of three or four as the remaining planks to be installed on frame H are only three or four.  Some planks terminated around frames F and G.  Looking at my Longboat, most planks were a consistent width from bow to stern.  This is not an easy model to plank, but you are at a stage of construction where it can be easily corrected.   The bottom four planks look good.

Good luck on your build and we are here to answer any of your questions.

The hull is looking really good.  Thanks for the tip on repairing misplaced drill holes.  I had this happen on my build and filled the holes with sawdust.  Placing a sliver of wood in the hole sounds like a much better fix.

Nice save on the paint pulling up.  The hull looks really nice. 

The hull looks good.  I do not see a problem with adding some material to the top of the frames to bring the frame even with the top of the wales.  Just make sure that the sheer has a smooth run from the bow to the stern.  Any material added to the frame tops should be hidden by the inboard sheer strake.

Congratulations on finishing your Picket Boat.  It turned out real nice.

Welcome to Model Ship World.  Glad to see another Longboat in the works.  You are off to a good start.