Ryland Craze

Nice job on this model.

That looks much better.  Glad to see the first planks on.

Hi Bud and welcome to Model Ship World.  We were all absolute beginners at one time.  When I started in this hobby, there was no MSW.  It is a good idea to start a build log on your Endeavor.  If you have any questions about your build, just ask and you will receive answers from the membership.

Bradley, You look like you are having a lot of fun building these two models.  I am glad you started a build log on these kits as they can be a great introduction into building wooden ship models.  You could not have a better teacher than David Antscherl.

Nice job on your deck.  The Winchelsea is bringing out the best of the builders.

4 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

It's been fun so far and I'm happy with the way little Fifie is turning out.

You should be happy.  You have done a good job on building your Fife.

Hi Mark and welcome to Model Ship World. You have received some good advice on selecting your first ship model.  If you are a complete beginner, you may want to check out this ship model kit:

This model is designed for the first time modeler and you can get a version that includes all of the tools and supplies needed to complete the model.

You do not want to over bevel the edge of the planks as gaps could develop when you sand the hull.  Also, the plank edges will be seen on the interior of the hull, so you want the edges to be tight.

Your Cheerful hull is a work of art.  Congratulations on getting to this part of the build.

Your chain plates look nice.  I also struggle with blackening parts.  You have to really have the parts clean and any protective covering has to be removed.

I purchased my Kunz miniature plane from Woodcraft many years ago.  I did a Google search and came up with this: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunzpalmplanewithouthandle.aspx

There are other miniature planes that are much nicer, such as the Lie-Nielsen, but my Kunz does the job.  It is based on the old Stanley 101 block plane.

I am glad to see your progress on your Longboat.  I hope to start rigging mine today.

The repair and fairing look good.  I know you are looking forward to moving on with the build.

That is a nice looking model.  I am glad that Model Shipways is producing a kit for first time builders.  You could not have a better teacher than David Antscherl, the designer of this kit.  The description of this kit states it is the first in a series of progressive model tutorials.  This is definitely what a new builder needs to improve their skills.  So many new builders come into this hobby, get frustrated with their build and leave, never to come back.  This series of kits should give them the confidence to complete their models and move on to more complicated ship models.

You are doing a nice job on your Atlantic.  It looks like the contact cement was the right choice for the scribed deck.

You are off to a good start on your Beagle.  It is never too late to start a build log.  I see that there are 131 videos on YouTube of building this model.  Here is the link to these videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?reload=9&list=PLrPwa5r7zKUzDlhkDF4ztrTc2ag_wVD_a

Welcome to Model Ship World Lars.  The OcCre kits build into fine models.  I am glad your son "tricked" you into this hobby and that he shows an interest in your work.  I will be checking out your HMS Beagle build log.

Floyd, I am sure that you are not the first modeler to break a frame when fairing a Medway Longboat.  The frame broke at a place where it will be visible on the inside of the hull.  The break is about one plank width above the top of the floorboard.  If you decide that you will repair this frame, this is how I would do it.  I would first take some wax paper and place it on the laser cut seam of the frame center where the breaks occurred.  It looks like you may be able to slide some wax paper in the seam under the section of the center frame where the floor and top timber are joined together right at the break.  This should keep the removable part of the frame from being glued to the actual frame.  Next, I would glue the broken frame where the breaks occurred, both top and bottom.  Then I would glue some scrap pieces of wood on both sides of the top of the frame (side closest to the build board) to reinforce the frame where the break occurred, similar to the reinforcement you did for the single frames.  This should be covered up by the cap rail later in the build and not visible.

This repaired frame will be very fragile but should hold the planking very well and should be almost invisible at the break.  Just remember that you will need to fair the inside of the hull once the frame centers are removed, so go lightly on fairing this frame.  This is a minor setback as we all have had something like this happen to us.  You will get it fixed and continue on with this build.

Hi Mike and welcome to Model Ship World.  I am glad you have joined this forum and enjoy the build logs.  We have an enormous group of talented builders who have shared their builds with us.  I look forward to seeing your posts.

Welcome to Model Ship World Phil.  A lot of model ship builders honed their skills on Artesania Latina kits.  I look forward to seeing your pictures.

Nice start to your build.  I have always been amazed at how plastic modelers can paint plastic to make it look like wood.  Good job.

Great job Michael.  It is a beautiful model.

You are off to a good start on your Cutter Alert.  I look forward to seeing your modifications to this kit.

Looks nice Grant.  I am glad you have restarted this build.

I would take a piece of notebook paper and trace the curved bearding line onto it.  You could then cut this curve out of the paper and use it as a pattern of the bearding line.  With the pattern, draw the curve on the opposite side of the false keel.  Once you have drawn these lines, you want to gradually taper the false keel from the line to the edge of the false keel.  You can use a sanding stick to do this if you do not have a chisel.  The goal is to gradually take off enough wood so that you are thinning down the edges of the false keel to be 1/16" wide which will require you to take off 1/16" off of each side of the 3/16" keel.  When the stem and keel are attached to the false keel, you will have a 1/16" rabbet for the planks to be inserted into.  Take your time on this and you will get it just right.  This will make for a good planking job.

The frames and keel look great, way better than your first attempt.  It was well worth the time you spent to correct the prior issues.  Just take Chuck's advice and you will do fine.  I found my nail files in assorted grits at Sally Beauty Supply and have seen them in Walmart and Target in the beauty section.