hornet
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Holding Small Items
hornet replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Mike I have suggested this before on this forum but here goes. One of the most valuable tools in my collection is my fly tying vice (designed for tying fishing flies) It will hold very small items without crushing them. I tend to use it for tying blocks and rigging. I usually use small alligator clips to hold items when airbrushing, but I see no reason why it couldn't be used when painting. There are many inexpensive fly tying vices on eBay and amazon. Hope this helps you Steve
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You probably have a point John, but I still think that the instruction booklet ( not the actual plans) were pretty daunting for an inexperienced builder - at least that is what I found at the time. I gave up on them and used the plans alone. Reading back through them now (over 20 years and 8 builds later) they are a little easier to follow but still bloody awful in my opinion.
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If it were me, I would not put heat anywhere near the side of that build. The heat transfer through the brass would almost certainly melt or distort the plastic. Why can't you snip the eyebolts off flush with the hull, carefully drill out the shafts and then build the eyebolt/chain/ strops off the model. The eyebolts could then be epoxied back in place - just my 2c worth
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Hamilton. I have a total of 10 different Proxxon Tools including one of their Scroll Saws. All have a small footprint and are reliable and accurate. You won't go wrong if you buy one of these. I also ave about 8 different Makita tools in my 'big shed' - not the scroll saw though. Can't fault any of them either. If it were me, I would probably go the Proxxon. It is a very quiet saw.
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Hi Barbossa. My current build - Caldercraft 'Supply' did not have crowsfeet in the plan either, but I decided to include them. Before drilling the holes required to fit the crowsfeet, I glued the two pieces ( lower tops & lower tops rim) together, then drilled through both using my drill press for accuracy. I only needed to drill 0.8 mm holes as the thread I used to produce the crowsfeet was 0.25mm so there was plenty of room to thread through the holes. If you are worried about the fact that the front of the lower tops rim is only 2mm wide, why not shape and fit anther piece of ply behind it? In fact the laser cut ply that the lower top rim was cut from would already be in that curve. The join could then be filled with a PVA and wood dust filler. Once painted back - I assume you would be painting it, it would not be noticeable. One of my crowsfeet is shown below, admittedly the tops rim on the Supply appears to be a little wider than the Diana, but I think it could still be done.
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Hi Chris. There are a few ideas on making coils in the following thread. I devised a method using transparent plastic 'counters'. It works very well for any sized coils/thread. Check it out below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1310-making-rope-coils/?hl=%2Brope+%2Bcoiler#entry210607
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Hi Paul I also use bamboo skewers for treenails. I did some research regarding diameter using the treenails on the deck of the Endeavour Replica as a reference. See first link below b [url="http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8317-to-treenail-or-not-to-treenail/" In addition I made a tool for splitting treenails so they were easier to fit in a drawplate. See link below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2959-treenail-detail-option/
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I'll go with Pompey2. Caldercraft's range of Admiralty Acrylics are historically accurate and excellent quality. I now use them exclusively. They work very well with both brush and airbrush and would be perfect for the 'Victory'
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Hi Don Read through the thread below. It will give you some guidance as to the best kit brands for beginners as suggested by members of the forum. Remember that clear PLANS are probably more important than written instructions. Any confusion you may have can usually be cleared up by asking for help from this great forum http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12105-poor-instructions/?hl=%20best%20%20instructions
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As well as a range of different grit sandpaper on different wood blocks, I use my Proxxon delta sander and pen sander. The delta sander comes with a range of different grit pads and is great for sanding larger areas. The pen sander comes with different shaped attachments and is useful when getting into tight corners.
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Vossey I would also suggest you get a Squadron Super Glue Applicator. They are very cheap and deliver a small drop of glue to the back of each plate quickly and easily. Combined with tweezers, I found that fitting plates was made much easier than the method shown on the Modeller's Shipyard YouTube Clip ( applying a line of glue to the hull then putting on the plates) I managed to glue the entire hulls of my Sloop Norfork and the Supply without glueing my fingers together even once. I bought my squadron applicator from Frontline Hobbies here in Newcastle, but I imagine they would be available in most hobby shops. See link below. http://www.modelsrgo.co.uk/squadron-tools-precision-super-glue-applicator.html
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Well I can vouch for Cornwall model boats. The plates I ordered were very quick in getting here and (at that time) were less than half the price of Modeller's Shipyard (including shipping)
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Vossey I bought copper plates for my current build - HMB Supply. After a lot of searching, I found it was cheaper to buy them from Cornwall Models in the UK. That was when the Aussie Dollar was worth more though. Modeller's Shipyard will sell them to you but they are hideously expensive. Float A Boat in Melbourne may have them. They are not listed in their catalogue but it s out of date. It would be worth calling them. Nice people to deal with. http://www.modelshipyard.com.au/fittings/copper-plates-sheathing/
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Just make sure you don't put the second layer of planking over the copper plates. :)
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Hi Vossey Link below. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA Steve
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Hi Vossey Modellers Shipyard/Modellers Central has put out a DVD on the art of hull coppering. I bought it and found it OK for a beginner. I think part of the DVD is on YouTube. You may find it useful.
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For me the choice was too, too difficult so I bought the lot.
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double planking a hull
hornet replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Jbshan, you mention `plank separation' in your post regarding single layer of planking. My first build (over 30 years ago) was the Aeropiccola `Golden Hind.' It was single planked. The book `Period Model Boat Manual' which I bought at the time (don't know if it is still in print or not) recommended `caulking ' the inside of the hull to prevent this happening. This was done by layering bandage dressing `gauze' into the interior of the hull and coating with thinned wood glue. It was a similar method to fibreglassing. I used the method and after 30 years still no cracking or plank separation. See pics below. extract from `Period Model Boat Manual' Hull of the `Golden Hind' 33 years after construction (no plank separation)
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Ulrich, because are only using sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the dowel, you may be able to fix the dowel into a collet after drilling it out and sand it back using your hobby drill clamped in a vice. I am assuming that you have a hobby drill that uses some form of collet.
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On a recent build, drilled through the centre of a small diameter dowel using my drill press and then turned the dowel down to the desired diameter using sandpaper on my lathe. I then cut the parrel beads to length and carefully sanded the ends. It was fiddly but worked well. The beads were around 1.5 mm in length but could be made even smaller. See below Alternatively, you can buy beads in a range of sizes and colours from sewing shops. See below.
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Steam tool for bending wood model ship planks?
hornet replied to mobile1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have been using an Aeropiccola heat/steam bender for over 30 years. Works well for me. See my post about it from another thread below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/602-how-long-do-you-soak-the-planks/page-2?hl=%2Bplank+%2Bbender#entry216387 -
I have used both basswood and balsa. I found that balsa was very soft when trying to screw in planking screws. I partially solved the problem by giving them a few coats of a PVA and water mix. When dry this firmed them up a bit. I still preferred the basswood though.
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Have you looked at this resource? I know that I found it useful. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/BowandSternFillerBlocks.pdf Steve
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I have the Caldercraft Version 'On the Shelf'. I have been through the box. As with all Caldercraft kits fittings and plans are good. Walnut hull planking strips are so so. I anticipate doing quite a bit of scratch work as I have done with the Caldercraft 'Supply' but I'd be happy to recommend it.
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I WOULDN'T recommend the Dremel Multivice (pictured below) I purchased one a while ago and am very disappointed in it. Adjustment is sloppy and the jaws are 'wishy washy' Steve
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