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Everything posted by Keith_W
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I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging. I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory: So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this: If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory. This is the result: I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess. The boat as of tonight: Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait. It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.
- 78 replies
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- model shipways
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Hi Chris, I have been over this thread several times. Unfortunately most of your earlier pictures were lost in The Great Crash. I would dearly love to know more about the construction, and more about what the ship would look like if planks were left off. Would you happen to have these pictures, and if it is not too much trouble - could you please repost them? Also, have you heard anything from Amati as to when this kit will be released?
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I don't treenail from the inside ... I drill from the inside! I inserted the treenails from the outside. The inside of the boat is visible, so I wanted my treenails to go all the way through. I also cut my treenails flush as I go along and wipe off excess glue. I used white glue with some wood stain, thinned with a tiny bit of water. I didn't want the stain to linger around and stain the planks, so I wiped it off. If you look at my Bounty Launch build log, you can see the effect of the darkened glue - the treenails have a little ring around them. Gives better definition IMHO.
- 137 replies
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- finished
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I'm curious to see how this turns out. Subscribed!
- 93 replies
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- ships boat
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Ingenious method for placing the treenails. When I treenailed my boat, I drilled the treenails out from inside. Very tricky work - I had to remember to keep my drill 90deg to the wood at all times, otherwise the outside hole would be uneven! Your treenails are beautiful! My boat is constructed of the same basswood as yours. I found that dry sanding with successively finer grades was enough to produce a good finish.
- 137 replies
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That is gorgeous work. So neat and tidy. Well done!
- 92 replies
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- finished
- caldercraft
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Congratulations on completing your planking! Do you feel like a million dollars? The keel should have been clamped on before you started the planking. Do the Artesania instructions tell you to clamp the keel on after the planking? Too late for that now, I suppose you need some rubber bands and slow setting glue. Make sure the keel is absolutely straight and true before you leave the glue to set. Personally I would stain it with a water based stain of your choice. If you don't like the stain, you can always paint over it.
- 37 replies
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- jolly boat
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Very nice, Tom! Maybe you should ask them to buy you power tools instead?
- 153 replies
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- model shipways
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That carving is stunning! You must be the Michelangelo of ship models!
- 227 replies
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- cumberland
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Thank you Bindy! I will be back in Melbourne in slightly more than a week. I won't be home long though, because I take off for Tasmania shortly afterwards.
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CF, you need scotch tape which can be marked. Apply the tape to the gap, then use a pencil to trace the outline of the gap. Remove the tape and place it on a plank. Use a sharp knife to trim the tape up to the mark, then cut the plank to fit the tape. Make sure that you do not cut exactly to the outline of the tape - leave yourself some excess, then sand the rest of the plank until it fits the gap.
- 37 replies
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- jolly boat
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Saw an update on your thread and eagerly rushed in to see what progress you've made. Sad to see that you've actually gone a little backwards! How long will this add to your build? Another 2 years?
- 517 replies
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- Endeavour
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Thanks for posting this build log. I have been curious about this kit for a while. Unusual subject! You are doing great work, please keep us updated.
- 49 replies
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- amati
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That's because it needs to be trimmed. Do you have a Dremel? Mount the sanding tool on the Dremel and it will make light work of it.
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You think that is expensive Take a look at this Amati Albion - $20,900. http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/amati-ship-kits/amati-albion.html (Yes I realize it's probably an error)
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You know, your suggestion makes a lot of sense. I have looked over Chris Watton's thread in great detail, and I think it is worth waiting for. IF the production Amati is anywhere near as good as the prototype, this really will be the ultimate Victory. Her size is impressive, the attention to detail is impressive - down to Chris changing the number of balustrades on the prototype when someone noted that all Victory kits are incorrect, including his. I even like your suggestion for the Agamemnon. It will be good to build up my skills before attempting the Victory. Owning a Victory has been my dream ever since I saw the original in Portsmouth as a kid. In fact, it was all the wooden models in the museum that fired up my interest in modelling. Waiting another 12 months won't do me any harm.
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Good to hear Steve, I would love to see your build log when you get started. One thing I like about other build logs is seeing how other modellers interpret the same ship - no doubt you will have a different take on it. By the way, I almost can't stand to look at this build log now. I am embarassed at all the mistakes I made. If I were to do it again, I would stain the wood prior to gluing, and I would be more careful mopping up excess glue - basic things that every ship modeller should know, but something I had forgotten in my many years break from ship modelling.
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All right, Caldercraft it is then!
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