BobG

I'm currently considering looking at several models for my next build and I have noticed that quite a few models now have laser etched decks provided. I was wondering just how realistic they look compared to decks which are planked with individual planks? I can see the appeal of the laser etched deck in the simplicity that it adds to this step the build and the ease with which you can get a flawless pattern for the deck planking, but how does it actually look when it is finally sanded and finished? Does it look authentic by comparison to and individually planked decks?

Really nicely done, Justin. I going to play around with various ideas for a while. I bought a self-healing mat for my workplace desk but it had a terrible chemical smell so I put it outside for a couple of weeks and it was still off gassing. I could still smell it 3 months later so in the trash it went. Did your your mats have any noticeable odor to them? I'd like to get try another one if it doesn't stink.

I currently have a small desk in the corner of our second bedroom that is my workspace but, as I continue to accumulate more tools and materials, I'm cluttering up the room much to my wife's dismay. Our house is small so there really isn't any other place for me to work. We have a relatively small garage that we don't use for the car and I'm looking at revamping half of it for a better workspace since I want to acquire some Byrnes model machines and eventually a mill and a lathe. Climate control will be a problem though especially during the scorching summers here in Sacramento and I'm not sure how I will solve that...probably with a couple of fans and working earlier in the day. I look forward to seeing what your workspace solutions end up being.

Your work is consistently excellent but, I get it, since I'm always seeing things I wish I had done better also. I often point out the little details I'm not pleased with to my wife and she's just rolls her eyes and says, "You're the only one who would ever notice that." Perfectionism can aid us in pursing excellence but it can also take the shine off the apple if we aren't careful also.

Chris, do you have a rough estimate on the approximate availability of this model to the public?

Beautifully presented box art, Chris. I think these models will become very popular with increased exposure over time especially since they offer novices two very handsome models that they can successfully complete while learning a lot about ship modeling skills at the same time. Good quality materials coupled with excellent instructions are not all that commonplace in models suitable for beginners and experienced modelers will appreciate these qualities as well. Great job!

I'm looking forward to your build log of this beautiful ship. I have this model on the shelf along with several others. I'm about to start a new model but I'm still undecided which one to tackle next.

I'm curious to know which Billings Boats kits you have built and, based on your experience, what you thought about the quality of the kits you have built. Thanks!

First of all, fantastic work and build log as usual, Justin. What kind of glue are you using for your planking? I followed Chucks advice of using medium viscosity CA when planking my Medway Longboat. He advocates for working with each plank until it lays practically perfect in its place on the hull before using just a spot of CA on each frame as you go along from the stem to the stern gluing down the plank. That way you don't have to find various ways to clamp the plank down or use excessive amounts of pressure to try and force the plank into place. That worked well for me if I had done a good job shaping and pre-fitting the plank. You seem to be doing such a precise job with shaping and bending of your planks that using CA like that would probably work very well for you and it would eliminate the problem of not having the right clamp. Just a thought... Oh, and by the way, I'm envious of your workshop. It looks like you have a very nice and spacious workshop.

I'm sure there is a ton of interest so keep'em coming!

I think this model would be a nice choice for weathering to look like a hard working, fishing boat that has endured all the hardships of the sea over time, and it could also be set into an interesting diorama then as well.

Yup, you found it and it should be no problem at all.

I didn't notice anything until you mentioned it. So I looked closer and it looks to me like the keel is not straight. I'm not sure anyone other than you will notice it once you complete the model. I doubt that anyone will hold up your model and sight down the keel. I'm like you, though, I can see every little thing that I wish was just a little bit better even though my wife says "it's perfect!" I think most of us tend to be our own worst critics. If you keep going the way you have so far you will end up with a beautiful model.

1. I'll second the recommendation by Grant for a video on Chuck's painting techniques for getting a high quality paint job without lap or brush marks in the finish. I have been using thin coats of acrylics and, although I get a pretty good finish, I still end up with some noticeable lap and brush marks if you look closely. The video could include recommendations for preparing the surface for painting, brush types to use, how much to thin the paint and stroke techniques to help prevent lap and brush marks, etc. 2. A video on the process of correctly fairing the hull would be great also since it is such an important step in successfully laying the foundation for the model. I understand what we are trying to achieve in an accurately faired hull but I still don't feel confident in how I go about it. I'm often uncertain if I have taken off enough or too much even though I am checking the frames often with a batten. The video could include recommended sanding blocks and grades of sandpaper to use. Is it best to start at the bow and work towards the middle or start in the middle and work towards the bow and then the stern, etc? What is the best way to fair the more difficult areas such as the more severe curves at the bow and stern? How should properly faired frames intersect with the rabbett and how does that vary along the length of the keel? 3. A video demonstrating the process of cutting the rabbett would be great too. This is another important step that is often rather vague for many modelers. The video could cover many aspects of cutting the rabbett including the choice of tools, how the rabbett changes along the keel, how to check the cut as you go along and what it should look like when done properly especially at the stem and stern. 4. An addition to Chuck's excellent planking videos would be a video demonstrating how to correct the little things like gaps that may show up along a plank. For example, in one of the planking videos, Chuck points out a small place where the plank he has just finished edge bending does not lie completely flush with the previous plank near the bow and says that it will take a little tweaking to get it to match up better. How is that done? Does the plank need to be bent more at that point or does the edge need to be beveled in that area or both? Also, what is a good way to eliminate small gaps that appear between planks here and there? Is it best just to bevel that area only, etc? These are such important things to know since little errors in planking tend to creep and get magnified as we continue along with planking process. I know that successful, experienced modelers perfect their techniques over the years and that there isn't "one perfect way" to do any particular task, but a step-by-step video from someone with years of experience about their techniques would be very helpful to many of us. As the saying goes: " A picture is worth a thousand words" and I think a well made video can be even better.

Awesome!

Oh, she looks wonderful, Don, and your model brings back memories for me. Are you going to make her RC? You should start a build log. I'd love to follow along on your build.

🤣🤣🤣

The only thing I know about Chuck's method of painting is to use many thinned coats of paint. I remember reading a post from him some time ago where he mentioned that, when he was in art school, he had to paint a square area without leaving any lap marks or brush strokes. He said that it would be easier for him to demonstrate the process rather than to try and give a written description of the technique. Do you know anything further about the way he does that? He also mentioned that he had learned to paint a straight line without using any masking tape!

Beautiful, Ryland! I'm glad to see the progress you've made. I'll have to try painting with a larger brush like you have done. I still have problems avoiding all lap marks no matter how many thin coats I put on. It's not noticeable with black but red tends to be transparent and any lap marks are noticeable if you look closely.

I think I may need to wait and see the Flirt and how she looks and compares to the Speedy but patience is not my best quality...

You've done a really nice job on your first ship, Emmet. Well done!

She's a real gem, Jean-Philippe.

WOW!!!

Great job on the carving, Michael! That's impressive given the scale and intricacy of it. Did you start the carving with just a line drawing on the wood?

Simply outstanding, Bob! If I ever do a diorama I'll know who to ask to get advice. Did you use the green and brown mica powder in the first pour only? Does the powder dissolve and tint the resin evenly? I like to make didgeridoos from raw logs I have collected and cured. After rough shaping the log into the shape of the didgeridoo I want, I split it down the middle and carve out the inside. Then I glue the two halves back together, sand down the outside of the didge and then coat the inside and outside with resin. It's always a crap shoot to see what musical key the didge ends up being! I have a couple of nice logs that have a big cracks in them. I've seen didgeridoos made when the craftsman filled the crack(s) with colored epoxy resin and they looked great as a highlight to the didge. I'd like to try that so I'm curious as to what is the best method of creating a deep, clear color in the resin. Are these powders that you use the best way to go or wood something like food coloring work too? Thanks, Bob.