Canute
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Jack, Glad you're back in action. Great start with the documentation. Nice palette of wood colors. -
Very nice work there, Matt. You keep raising the bar every time I look in.
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very cool. Another option for the lens is Mod-Podge. Available at arts n crafts places. Dries clear.
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Matt, Minwax is my stain of choice, too. I did a quick test of conditioned and unconditioned basswood with some Natural and Golden Oak stains. The conditioned wood is on the upper side of the board, my hen scratch shows the color swatches: I like the Golden Oak after conditioning the wood, the natural was too light. Applying the Golden Oak to untreated basswood was just too brown; I want to show the sun-bleached wood. Several other stains I have on hand are just too dark already. So, my plan is to pre-stain the insides of the planks before shaping and bending. If the process lightens the stain, I'll re apply. I'm working on the transom with a buddy who builds high end doll house furniture as one of his side "businesses". The transom will get some veneer applied; I think the planking should cover it.
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Quite the artiste, Cap'n. The sails look perfectly ratty and worn. Let me add another outstanding vote.
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Cap'n, excellent work. More goodies to add to the launch. Thanks!
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Cap'n, what were they thinking? Good call on the veneer. I'm off to my local big box hardware stores to seek out any and all manner of supplies, mostly stains. I've added it to the list. I may have a better shot with my little hole-in-the-wall "Ace Hardware". They carry number drills and brass shapes, along with the usual hardware stuff. We shall see. Wish me good hunting!
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Matt and Cap'n Steve, thanks for the info. More technique for my growing bag o' tricks! I'm searching my stash of basswood, down in the basement, for the appropriate wood sizes. As a card carrying, kit-building model railroader, I accumulated a fair pile. Also a lot of plastic strip. Anyway, I plan to redo the transom. That laser etch label just bugs me. The Shipyard HM Cutter Alert kit showed up yesterday. I have this thing for 10-16 gun cutters. I'll need various thicknesses of cardboard to add body to the kit parts, when I start on this little jewel.
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Matt, it was touchy sanding around the sheer tabs, but I think the mold looks pretty good. No bumpy spots. The frames will be twisted in the appropriate directions, when I put them on. Did you say you ran the frames from side to side or just do one side at a time? The transom is next. I don't think I'll use the kit part. Lose the billboard, but also the taper amount. I think I'll trace the piece on a 1/8" blank and then plank it with 1/4" x 1/32" planks.
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Pops, he must use an SR-71.
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Matt, you have a local hobby shop? Ours only carries Lionel sized trainsand is open random hours weekdays only.
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Bulls eye, sir. Part of the Federal or Union navy's riverine forces. Was active for just over 2 years. Supposed to be a ram, but it was too slow. And it's available as a 1:200 scale paper model, if you're so inclined.
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Slog, you're absolutely correct on having the time to create. All we can do is try. Oh yeah, it is a USS ship. Just not USS Lafayette. You're warm.
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Matt, nice job! Those handles are outstanding. I'm hoping to get back in the 'yard today, now that the final visitors have been well fed and sent home happy. You and the Cap'n have set high standards for us mere mortals.
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Hey Slog, Thanks for the info. Most of my current card endeavors are in American Civil War ironclads, although mostly research. So many ships, so little time... I read catopower's post on Alert and decided to try it. How hard could it be.
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Here's the next one:
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Slog, as a retired aviator, my fondness for WWII ships gravitates to oddball aviation support ships. And the Japanese ships are the oddest, to my mind. I built the Chiyoda/Chitose class and hunted for the Nisshin kit, in plastic,with no luck. I was trying to remember what their configurations were in the bow area and vaguely remembered that Nisshin was unique, so I took a wag and wrote that down. Better to be lucky than good, some times.
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IJNS Nisshin
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Cap'n, some random thoughts from your third engine wiper. Matt's on the right track for ripped sails. From your earlier discussions, I suspect Bligh would not want the ripped sails staying in that condition for long. The sails must have been patched in a place or three. Patches would be whatever cloth they may have scrounged. More than likely not sail colored cloth. A shirt or breeches, perhaps? I say put a patch or two on your sails. And most definitely sun bleached. Think about how washed out/sun-faded cloth can get; but canvas sails would get faded by turning what color? Up here in the mountains, white cloth gets dingy grey and gets weak. But, we're cooler and wetter than the Southern Ocean. Would the canvas yellow?
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Matt, I'm most definitely going slow with this. I double and triple checked that I wasn't fairing the first 3 molds, although I may have nicked #3 with a sander stick. #4 thru 15 molds are faired, but being an anal FWIC type, I keep re visiting the molds, running my thumb over them. Sort of fine tuning the fine tuning. I added the stem pieces and horses last night. I'm sanding the horses down slowly so that the transom will lay across all 3 parts in a line. It's not there yet. I toyed with taking a Dremel sander to it, but realized I might overdo it. Soo, slow and steady she goes. Patience, grasshopper. I may just tape some coarser sand paper to a flat stick to speed this part up. Decisions, decisions.
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Guys, both tool chests are outstanding. This apprentice "Chips" has at least two good role models here. Matt is correct, I was attempting the Cap'n. If it needs explanation, then it wasn't done well. Have a pleasant Boxing Day/St Stephen's Day, y'all!
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Well, the braces set up nicely, so fairing commenced, from the middle outwards, checked frequently with a batten strip. Nice, smooth edges. I attached the transom horses and stem supports (Butt joints, really). Today, I plan to attach the keel "clips" and work on the transom.
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Arrr, nice work on the hardware, me buck-o! And the chest hath rope handles to boot. Very weak imitation of Cap'n Steve's comments. Hope he doesn't mind.
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Augie, thanks for the comment. I've been collecting a number of stains and was planning on testing them all on the kit wood remnants. After reading through any number of the other build logs, I can see the wisdom of doing so. Helps to minimize surprises. Should be installing the 1/8" braces today, too.
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