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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Canute
    I'm very interested in how you will make this treenailing process happen. I'm still a noobie in this field.
  2. Canute
    Matt, the Alert and Granado AOTS books have 1/24 scale drawings of 4 & 6 pounders. Might they be of some help?
  3. Canute
    Cap'n, glad you're back. Follow the doctor's orders for healing up. Nice work on the rudder gudgeons and pintles.
  4. Canute
    Bill, they do insert a block under the aft end of the barrel to adjust elevation. That's called the quoin, the triangular block or, as Tuff calls it, the cake shaped block above the rear wheel. Two gun crewmen, one per side, used crowbars to allow changing the gun's elevation. The quoin is slid forward to lower the gun's mouth and slid back to raise it.
  5. Canute
    The rudder and tillers look good, Cap'n. And your base looks great.
  6. Canute
    Hang in there. Time plan and plot your other work on the bomb.
  7. Canute
    Matt, have you looked at the AOTS Alert book. It's a somewhat older ship, but a nice looking cutter. Lots of detail for you.
  8. Canute
    I had forgotten many old kits had raised detail, so yes, no washes. Although, you may want to sand around the deck furniture to remove the raised grain effects on the deck "wood". It would go a ways towards making the plastic deck look like wood. I looked at the kit instructions for a railroad flat car I did a while back. Plastic was gray to start. Washed it in "Dawn" to remove mold release agents; paint sticks better to clean plastic. I painted the plastic an enamel earthy/woody color - light tan. Let dry a day or so. No paint odor. Sanded the boards to remove maybe 25% of the tan paint. Dry brush - streak the boards - with a darker brown enamel. Let dry (no odor), maybe 30 minutes. Lightly sand again. Could add a black acrylic wash to bring out the caulking. Lightly steel wool the deck with 4 ought wool to even out color.
  9. Canute
    It makes sense to do so with these cutters. Shallow draft, packs a punch. It will be interesting to see how the bulwarks get reinforced. And increasing armament to 12 3 pounders. Bravo Zulu, little squirrels!
  10. Canute
    Tom, looking good. On your deck, is it black plastic or some other color? I've used a medium to dark grey for the base coat on the plastic. Flat black may be too stark. Light sanding to expose the grain will work well. Some have used an india ink in isopropal alcohol wash to highlight, too.
  11. Canute
    Spales, eh. Great idea; I'll have to make a few. Can't have too many clamps.
  12. Canute
    Long as that idea wasn't copyrighted, use it. The first rule of war is "If in doubt, cheat!"
  13. Canute
    Oh great, Cap'n Steve, the Borg. You will be assimilated...
  14. Canute
    Folks, thanks for all the capsule bios. Screen handles now make more sense.
  15. Canute
    Well, a minor doubling back on myself. I've been busy digging out of the snow we had here in WNC, so I hadn't looked at the launch since Sunday. I was contemplating the port sheer plank and noticed it looked like a hockey stick on the hood end. How'd that happen, I opined. I looked at my first 3 molds and realized I hadn't faired them after adding the cherry frames to molds 4 thru 15. If you look at the first and third photos in #50, you can see, in HD, that they aren't faired in yet. Frame 1 left a crimp in the sheer plank worthy of one of those hand planking benders. So, this afternoon, I "handled" that little issue. All nicely faired in. The port garboard turned out much better; fits into the rabbet better than what the photos show. So, I'm hoping to get the planking started this weekend.
  16. Canute
    Augie, awesome milling and joinery. Up to your usual high standards, sir.
  17. Canute
    STSCM, good luck with the build. It's a Chuck Passaro kit, so parts and instructions should be excellent. And MSW is a great resource, too. As you've already seen.
  18. Canute
    Nihil illigitimus carborundum! Don't let the bas**rds grind you down. (With apologies to Virgil and all those other old Romans )
  19. Canute
    Matt, are you steaming/boiling or just pressure fitting your planks? I presume the latter, since you're zipping right along and using CA. The rabbet seems to be good, although your joint at the stem is in shadow. I used a steel binder clamp to hold the hood end of the planks in the rabbet. Don't want to leave my finger prints where they shouldn't be. Keep on truckin'.
  20. Canute
    I've had a Stylus for a number of years. It's handy for me; used it to rough shape the Bounty Launch stem before final shaping with sanding sticks. The lithium ion battery has held up very well. Does sound like my dentist's office, but then all my Dremels sound like that.
  21. Canute
    Jonny, sorry to hear that. Hope you're happy with the fix, but I have a teensy suspicion this "faux pas" will fester and you'll be replacing that bowsprit.
  22. Canute
    The tread-heads, aircraft modelers and, more recently, model railroaders use rivet decals from http://www.archertransfers.com/index.html Check them out if you need strings of rivets.
  23. Canute
    I use pieces of plastic bags as my glue "palette" and like Jay a round toothpick or an unbent paper clip. As that old ad said, "a little dab will do ya". Neatness does count!
  24. Canute
    Nice looking work, Joe. Like your photos.
  25. Canute
    Sanding or dipping in white vinegar (mild acetic acid) will both do a good job of prepping the brass for a good primer, like Keith suggests. You still may end up retouching the paint after flexing the etch brass after attaching it to your model. Use a very fine brush fir that.

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