wyz

My Work Areas

     living alone has allowed me to have more than one room for my model shipbuilding.  Without question, if I was married and had children, I think I would be lucky to have a shop area the size of a broom closet.  In my shop the front room is where I do most of the construction, and the back room is where I work when I'm making lots of wood dust.  Even in the back room it's imperative I run an air filter and keep the entrance door shut.  If I didn't do that there wouldn't be any place in my condo safe from wood dust fallout.

Front Shop

     This last year it's become very clear to me that I'm running out of shop space.  Don't laugh.  As large as the shop(s) are I'm still in need of more room.

Thank you Matt; your help is greatly appreciated.  I should have figured that out for myself.  They simplified the process from the way it used to be many years ago.

A quick question: how do you add photos to your build log.  I once knew how to do it but have since forgotten.

Prologue

     This is something I wrote several years ago that I feel deserves reiteration today.  Build logs are all different, as each model builder has his/her own style.  Because I most enjoy build logs where construction steps and modelling techniques are clearly and fully explained, and ones where there are lots and lots of photos, I too will do mine in this fashion.  That means my log won't automatically assume the viewers have a lot of knowledge on a particular subject, and that sometimes basic things will be covered.  More experienced builders will no doubt find some material I will talk about or show pictures of old hat, or just plain elementary.  To those model builders, of which there are quite a number, I ask that you bear with me when this happens.  At least keep the laughter and snickers to a low decibel level. 😉 In many ways my build log is geared toward a neophyte scratch builder, especially one who might be interested in trying a bread and butter construction for the first time.  Over the years I've developed a method that's proved very successful for me, albeit one that's quite messy and a bit more labor-intensive.  In this build log I welcome any and all comments, from effusive praise to biting criticism.  If you have a question I'll do my best to answer it.  When I employ a technique, and you feel there's a better way, please speak up.  Your suggestions will always be welcome.  And if all you want is some good-humored banter, well, I'm up for that too.  You can say anything that's on your mind, providing it's not an infraction in Chuck's rule book 😉 I'm not thin-skinned, so you never have to worry about hurting my feelings.  These MSW build logs have become, for me, a wonderful window into the model shipbuilding community.  They truly make the world a bit smaller by bringing us all together.    I immensely enjoy your build logs.  Perhaps you will enjoy mine also.

The Model

     Well, the ship and scale have been chosen, but there are still decisions to be made on how will I build the Winchelsea?  As I mentioned in my opening remarks this model will be constructed in Georgian style.  What I do is establish the shape of the lifts (each layer of wood) and then  laminate these 1" thick pieces of yellow poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) together to form a very, very roughly shaped ship model.  I then mount this roughly formed hull to the building board in a rather unique way.  After screwing on a temporary keel eight inch wide boards are then glued to the bow and stern of the model that extend outward from the hull approximately 6".  These extensions will then rest upon 8" wide vertical pieces of wood that are bolted to the base.  During the shaping process the model is suspended off the surface of the base 1/16".  All of this will be clear when I start building the hull and you can see photos of what I'm talking about.  The beauty of this method is that it provides an incredibly stable and accurate way to mount the hull as I shape it with the help of templates.  I can take the model off the verticals, work the hull, and then replace it back on the building board effortlessly.  Because the horizontal pieces extend no further than the far side of the verticals replacing the model to the base can all be done by touch.  A blind man could do it.  What I like best is that there is ZERO movement of the hull when it's on the building board and there is 100% repeatability it goes back to the same location.  It is imperative that you have this repeatability if you are to use templates in shaping a solid hull.  I've never seen a hull shaping with the keel resting on the building board where there isn't some movement.  After the hull is shaped and the gun ports cut out I will remove the horizontal and vertical pieces and mount the hull to the base using a different method.  A permanent keel will then be attached along with the stem, cutwater and stern post.

     After the hull is shaped I will then plank over it using Castello boxwood (Calycophyllum multiflorum) , Swiss pearwood (Pyrus communis) and European boxwood (Buxus sempervirens).  I've decided I’m going to keep painting on this model to a minimum (wales and yards), but outside of that, not much else.  Anywhere there would be red paint I will use very lightly stained Swiss pear wood. Most "coloration" will come from the various hues of the woods I select.  I've decided to do it this way simply because it's new, and is something I've never done before.  While I haven't made a final decision I'm also contemplating rigging the model.

Thanks for the welcome Chuck.  I should be posting first images soon.  I'm sure many ship modelers are wondering why I would opt to build a solid hull Winchelsea over a well-designed POB model.  That's a good question.  Certainly, accurately forming the hull this way takes much, much longer and creates a lot of wood dust .... copious quantities in fact.  Yes, without question it's a far messier and more arduous method.  Then why do it this way?  Two main reasons.  1.  I guess the best answer is that I tired of the POB method from building so many models this way when I first got involved in this avocation.  I don't want to infer that this method is just for neophytes.  We all know that's not true.  You can build stunningly beautiful POB models.  It's just not for me anymore.  2. As someone who's into sculpting I've always enjoyed subtractive methods, like chiseling away at a stone or block of wood to make a piece of art.  Well, I really enjoy the subtractive method of forming a ship's hull too, sanding and planing the wood to its desired shape.  It can be a quite physical build method, while also being sensitively tactile.

Introduction

For a number of reasons, mostly medical, I've been many years away from model shipbuilding.  I had some doubt I would ever build another model again, but very good things have happened concerning my health, and I am now entertaining the idea of starting another model.  At my age I think it might be my last model .... my magnum opus.  What ship would it be?  I always thought a mid eighteenth century British frigate might be a nice choice.  When I saw that Chuck was leading a group project for a 1:48 scale model of HMS Winchelsea 1764, a Niger class 32 gun frigate, it really peaked my curiosity.  I paid the very reasonable fee to join the group and downloaded the plans.  One look at the external sheer draft and I fell in love.  Right then I knew this was the ship I wanted to build a model of.  There was a problem though, or at least what I thought was a problem, and that was that I no longer like to build POB ship models.  For some reason I thought that building the model this way was a prerequisite to joining the Winchelsea group project.  I decided to write Chuck an email and ask him if I could build a solid hull model using a bread and butter method that would be planked over.  He surprised me by quickly writing back that he would welcome seeing a semi-scratch build done that way and that I should join the group and start a build log.  Yes!  That made my day.  So, here I am.  I look forward to this build, especially seeing what my fellow model builders are doing and corresponding with them.  This should be a lot of fun.

Very impressive model!  This was a great build log to follow.  Thank you for sharing.

It's beautiful, just like everything else you've made.  You have the magic touch.

Following your build log for HMS Naiad was quite special, a real tour de force on plank on frame model shipbuilding.  Your joinery all throughout the build was exquisite and something all modelers aspire to achieve.  I look forward to seeing your next project.  You certainly set the bar very high for yourself with this model.  Thank you.

The fairing of the exterior of the hull looks really nice. 

When this model is finished I hope it ends up in a place where lots of people can view it.  Pandora is way too beautiful to reside in your home!  The world needs to see this model.

Wow!  The work on those sails is off the scale nice.  I envy your craftsmanship.  Your Pandora is one of my favorite build logs to follow.  Simply awesome!

Congratulations YankeeD on your completion of the hull planking.  It's an arduous and time consuming job well done.  Those hull planks bent around that bluff bow look quite challenging.

Tom

Oh Keith, my heart beats funny when I look at your model of Altair.  It is gorgeous.  The women I dated in my life never had such pretty lines!

Tom

That stand is unlike anything I've ever seen....really classy looking. 

Tom

I so look forward to your posts.  It's such a pretty build.

Tom

Wow Siggi!  That is one beautiful carving and paint job you did on that lion figurehead.  Gorgeous!

Tom

What a wonderful build log to follow!  Your work, as always, is exquisite.

Tom

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the info on he riffler files.  Your help is appreciated.

Tom

It's coming along nicely Mike.  I have some questions about the file(s) you use to fair the frames.  What are they?  Make? Style? Cut(s)? Where did you purchase it (them)?  Cost?

Thanks

Tom

Merry Christmas to you too Ed.  All through 2017, with each of your YA entries, the MSW group received an early present from you.  Thank you Santa Tosti!

Oh Keith, what a nice looking shop.  I'm certainly envious.

Tom

Ed, you set the bar so darn high I'd need a rocket ship to get to it.  Beautiful work!

Tom

Mike, it hardly looks like a first attempt at plank on frame model building.  I guess you're just a natural!  ;-)

Tom

Oh yes, I have a thing for frigates of this period so I too will be pulling up a chair.  If the build quality of Winchelsea comes out as well as Cheerful or Hayling this should be one awesome model.  Mike, two models going at once?  Did you retire?  Why cherry wood and how did you get it laser cut?  Did you consider any other woods, like Castello boxwood or Swiss pear?  On Chuck's Syren website I didn't see any Winchelsea parts in the laser cut section.  Do you have a special arrangement with him to build a prototype of what he will offer in the future?