ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Those are some ambitious projects, but I have no doubt they'll turn out great. -
I'd never seen one, either, until a few flew over my house some weeks back. And yes, they are quite loud.
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There's that famous white shelf with yet another great-looking model! Congratulations, David!
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Not trying to be curt, but this topic has come up multiple times in recent months. A quick search using the keyword "seawatch" turns up this list of topics. Please have a read through them.
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Pages will roll over automatically based on the number of posts made. There is no method to create units.
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Stitches and temporary bulkheads out now -- kinda looks like a real boat. Next step: prep for fiberglass -- say hello to Mr. Sandpaper.
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So far, so good.
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I forgot to edit my post last night -- I got up a second wind and whipped up a last batch of resin. It was like a Goldilocks moment -- it came out just right. Let me just say that getting the right consistency made a BIG difference in both the speed of finishing the task and its neatness. So tonight I get to have a clip-n-pull party for all those stitches, oh boy! Then we'll get to see what it looks like without the "porcupine" visual effect (or "cactus," as someone at work called it).
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Welcome aboard, Bjørn!
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Been epoxying seams -- first step is to "tack weld" between the stitches. Instructions said to make the epoxy the consistency of hollandaise sauce -- big help. 🙄 First batch was too thick, second was too thin. Still have about a third of the tack welding left to do, but I ran out of steam for the evening.
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Mike, you always do a nice job of fixing up these adopted models.
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New 1:48 HMS Endeavour out later this year
ccoyle replied to James H's topic in Wood ship model kits
With the exception perhaps of Vanguard Models, the R&D wheels at most model kit companies turn slowly. -
First allow me to express condolences for the passing of your father. Such things are always hard. This next part will also be hard, but for different reasons. It is difficult to sell even moderately good ship models, and if they do sell, I think you'd be surprised to find out how little they fetch. Your father's models, though, are simply not built to a standard that would make them attractive to knowledgeable ship model buyers. They have too many issues in terms of general appearance, workmanship, materials, and fidelity to subject matter (but hopefully he enjoyed building them, which is the main thing for a hobbyist). In all honesty, I think you would be hard pressed to get more than a few dollars for them, if anything. Wish I had better news for you.
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So, I made further progress, but you don't get any pictures -- because I botched it. 🤨 I thought I had the consistency of a batch of epoxy correct, but in reality it was too thin. Made a bit of a mess, and I have to re-do part of the task. Pics later ... maybe.
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Welcome, Mark! The wooden Mary Rose kit you are speaking of is no doubt the Caldercraft kit. As nice as it is, it is a bit dated in terms of design philosophy and is certainly not beginner-friendly. Happily, there are many exciting new kit products that have come out in recent years that are easier to build and have far better instructions. Have a look through our kit reviews section to check some of these out. Cheers!
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Looking for advice on starting a build log
ccoyle replied to Ken_2's topic in New member Introductions
Except for our standardized naming conventions, there are no particular hard and fast rules for build logs. It's pretty much a freestyle thing. -
Welcome! Your models turned out nicely.
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The seams will be epoxied inside and out. The entire hull also gets coated with unthickened epoxy resin inside and out, and the bottom panels will also be fiberglassed inside and out.
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The putty typically used in wood models is wood filler. But regardless of whether you use wood filler or drywall compound (spackle), it's essential to get most of the hull form in place beforehand -- fillers and spackles are not intended to fill in large areas. Your idea about using paper strips is a good one -- if you check some of the card model builds, such as those featuring Shipyard kits, you'll see how paper is used both as the outer skin and for forming an underlayment, or base layer. Paper is a very versatile medium -- don't be afraid to experiment and see what works well for you.
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Yes, that's correct. Those years include the period generally considered to be the Golden Age of Piracy.
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Yep, this I knew -- we call them "zip ties" in these parts. I thought about these many times while twisting various wires. Of course, using them would have required drilling out all of the holes larger.
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Ugh. Tightening the stitches has so far been much easier said than done. First of all, I have broken a fair number of stitches during the process and had to replace them. Second is the issue with getting panels to seat into their rabbets properly. Here's one side of the canoe showing properly seated and stitched panels. The exact opposite side of the boat refused to cooperate. I eventually hit upon a solution, but it involves removing about a half-dozen stitches and re-doing them. The unstitched panels want to create a roughly 1" wide gaping maw between them. I can squeeze the panels together -- I just can't stitch them at the same time! Which is what I attempted the first time around, and of course it didn't go to plan. To finish this correction, I'm going to have to wait until an extra pair of hands becomes available this evening. Much of the problem with the bending is due, I believe, to the stiff 1x1 rub rails. In retrospect, I think it may have been better to stitch the panels first, then install the rails, but hey -- I followed the directions. Cheers!
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