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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. ccoyle
    Can't help you on that one. I've only done one full-hull ship (the Modelik 1/100 HMCS Agassiz), and that was ages ago.
  2. ccoyle
    Etna -- then you are truly off the beaten path! I grew up in Humboldt. Used to do a bit of backpacking and fishing in the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountain Wilderness. (Apologies for hijacking Clare's log!!)
  3. ccoyle
    So pleased to see someone finally attempting this project! Of course, you already have some experience in this medium, so I expect this one will turn out fine. Enjoy!
  4. ccoyle
    Danny, in card model parlance, the 'spikes' are called 'petals'. They are one of the hardest bits to get just right. Nice work!
  5. ccoyle
    Bob, check out these builds by Doris. I think Clare and I would agree that next to her work, our models are "not worthy"!
  6. ccoyle
    Sapperred1, have a look at our card modeling tutorial. It's not a sailing ship, but it is a free model, and completing some or all of the tutorial will give you a good grasp of the basic card modeling skills.
  7. ccoyle
    Now where would this world be if everyone thought that way?
  8. ccoyle
    Oh, Danny, I wish you well on the gap touch-ups. That is something I have not had great success with. The main issue I think is that paints, even though they may be made with a blend of different pigment powders, still give the appearance of being a single, solid color. The printed colors, OTOH, are the result of a four-color printing process, and the perceived colors (such as IJN gray or anti-fouling red) are a trick of the eye. Touch-up paints in my experience never quite match the nuanced shades present in four-color printing. It's part of the reason I prefer waterline models. Nevertheless, I hope yours comes out great.
  9. ccoyle
    Ditto what Mark said. Just think of "likes" as people who are enjoying your work but don't feel like they have anything significant to add to the discussion at that point. If you have a general question about some aspect of the hobby (planking techniques, for example), you can try asking your question in the relevant area of the ship modeling techniques forum.
  10. ccoyle
    Welcome, Ed. You have a very large task ahead of you, and I wish you the very best of luck with it. Having a personal connection with it will definitely help as a motivating factor. Have plenty of patience! Be sure to start a build log (see instructions here); when you get to the purple words part, use the word RESTORATION in your title. We have several members who are experts in this aspect of the hobby. Cheers!
  11. ccoyle
    Halinski are among the very few designers who routinely apply weathering to their designs. It makes a big difference in the appearance of the finished product.
  12. ccoyle
    Sorry to hear that, Jesse.
  13. ccoyle
    Tiny paper tubes can easily be replaced with styrene rod. Good luck on your model!
  14. ccoyle
    Danny, I'm having the same issue with my current Halinski build as well. Thankfully, it's only four pages of parts. I understand the need to shuffle parts around to economize on paper, but it really does seem like at least some of the smaller parts have plenty of room to be placed in a more logical spatial order.
  15. ccoyle
    This is actually MSW 2.0. If you've been away for a few years, then you probably missed the Great Crash a couple years back. All the content was lost. Hard to tell by looking around now, isn't it?
  16. ccoyle
    For those that are tempted to try paper but would prefer to have more of the fiddly parts in the form of after-market detail sets, you have some good choices out there. Orel, out of the Ukraine, has probably the largest selection of 1/200 pre-Dreadnoughts (and other ships of that era) of any publisher around, and they have an extensive offering of laser-cut formers, PE detail sets, and turned brass barrels. Click here to visit their web site. I have ordered direct from them once before with no problems. The German firm HMV publishes in 1/250 and has a good selection of ships from the Kaiser's Navy. Their details sets are in laser-cut card, which is much easier to work with than brass or nickel-silver, since the parts don't require painting. Their web site is here. There are several eBay shops in different countries that carry HMV products. I have found this a convenient way to buy here in the U.S. There are other publishers with pre-Dreadnoughts in their inventories, but Orel and HMV have the two largest one-stop offerings. As Danny did, it is wise to start with a relatively simple model if you've never worked in card before, as it has its own learning curve, but it is definitely a fun medium to work in.
  17. ccoyle
    It is true that there is a bit of a wood bias on this forum, but that's not by design. We encourage modeling in just about any medium, and by posting here you help diversify the content. Refusing to post because of a perception that 'no one notices' plastic models only helps to reinforce that perception. Cheers!
  18. ccoyle
    Oh, man, you are jumping into the deep end! I'll be cheerin' for ya!
  19. ccoyle
    You are now a certified card-carrying member of the card-modeling cohort!
  20. ccoyle
    It's one of those "rank has its privileges" things. Shoot me a private message with the new name and I'll fix it for you.
  21. ccoyle
    Excellent work, Mike. Congratulations!
  22. ccoyle
    Danny, in fairness to GPM based on what I have heard from others, what happens is that their site postage calculator calculates on the high side, but that GPM afterwards charges your credit card only for the actual amount. I can't verify this from personal experience, though.
  23. ccoyle
    Do it! Danny dares you.
  24. ccoyle
    Doh!! I knew that. Age, dontcha know.
  25. ccoyle
    Danny, did you have the print shop scale your kit up? Because Paper Shipwright models are normally 1/250.

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