ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Schnellbaukasten is German for "quick-build kit." Not sure a how a POB 3-master qualifies as a 'quick build'.
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Ah, Revell of Germany. That makes more sense.
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Wait -- Revell re-badged a wood kit?
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Albatross by KevinR - 1:32 scale - Skipjack
ccoyle replied to KevinR's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Just catching up on this thread. I'm actually pretty surprised at the asking price listed above for Blue Crab. $2500 seems almost like a "what's wrong with it?" kind of price. -
The kit, marvelous as it is, was designed with the novice builder in mind, so there are a number of simplified features. Fortunately, we have a large number of Fly and Pegasus builds on the forum, both in-progress and completed, and these are provide a wealth of upgrade ideas. I also heartily recommend looking at dubz's Syren log, as he is quite good at adding convincing extra details to ships of the same period and similar rate. I, too, have a Fly in progress, although I started in 2006 (!) and haven't touched her in about three years. Too many projects, dontcha know.
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That strip was designed to make the deck planking easier for novice builders. The actual ship did not have that feature.
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Doug, I'm assuming you don't have the forecastle and quarterdecks glued in yet, right?
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I don't think those are the same outfits. "Bateaux miniatures" is a company that makes model ships. Bateaux Leclerc may be connected to the family somehow, but Bateaux Leclerc was a kit line. They are not high profile within the ship modeling community, and I think they may even have been out of the business for a considerable time. I have seen Leclerc kits for sale on eBay and elsewhere from time to time. I suspect their kits are on par with what was being produced back in the 70s/80s - something like the AL of Canada.
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Tools and Supplies for My "Shipyard"
ccoyle replied to daveward's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A boxed modeler's tool set may not be that great of an investment (I know this from personal experience). I never use the heavy-duty knife handle that came with the set, or most of the specialty blades. Instead, I use a regular el cheapo craft knife handle and buy #11 blades in 100-packs (much, much cheaper that way). The included gouges are next to worthless; at some point you will probably want to pick up a quality set of gouges, and these are truly one of the 'you get what you pay for' tools of the hobby. Now, as to a few things the boxed set lacks ... 1. Wire-sized drill bits. These break all the time. Buy them in bulk, in a variety of sizes. 2. Round-nose pliers. Very useful for forming all kinds of stuff out of wire, such as eyebolts. 3. Several gauges of blackened, annealed wire, for forming stuff with your round-nosed pliers. 4. Forceps, straight and curved tips. 5. A variety of tweezers. And here's another up-vote for headband magnifiers. Indispensable, IMO, especially for older eyes. Like mine. These are tools I use often. For tools that are used less frequently, it is handy to live next door to a modeler with a fully-equipped shop, so that you can dash over and borrow things. -
Battle Scars
ccoyle replied to tradewinds's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
This is not a very popular technique in our mostly-wood-models community, although I have seen models done like that - mostly miniatures in diorama settings. A search on 'weathering' might yield some tips. Also, the more dedicated steel navy forums out there will have more info on weathering, albeit aimed at steel navy subjects obviously. Good luck with your search! -
Ray, Do not be fooled by a label that says a kit is for 'beginners' - that is meant to create sales, not to ensure that you get a good start in the hobby. I believe it is always good advice to start with a simple wooden kit. Wood is different than working in plastic, and a simple kit will get you started well, teach you basic skills, save you money, spare you frustration, not take years to complete, and give you the satisfaction of getting a first wood model finished. HMS Snake is not an easy kit - lots of guns, lots of rigging, lots of repetitive tasks. Save it for a second or third model.
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Butapren is mentioned extensively in the literature of Eastern European card models, but I have never been able to learn exactly what it is. The only thing I can gather is that it is not available in the West.
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If we're talking strictly about wooden models, then I'd say '10-15 of the "big players'" is a generous overstatement; it's more like a half-dozen. My guess is that is easier for smaller fish to join in these days thanks to the advent of 3-D design software and cheaper laser cutting and CNC milling machinery. And thank goodness for that, too, since it means modelers have more choices now than ever.
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By 'tied up' I assume you mean furled? Yes, there are many modelers in this forum, along with examples of their work, who do just that. Browse through the gallery to find some models with furled sails, then find the build logs for those models to see how they did things. Try searching 'furled sails', too - you'll probably get some hits. Good luck!
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Gentlemen, I just did some pruning of this topic. This thread was started specifically to discuss projects in the works at Amati. I don't know why Chris hasn't posted in a while, but I'm sure he has his reasons. In the meantime, the thread was drifting off-topic and threatening to become a full-blown topic hijack. Discussions of particular kits already in production should go in the wooden kits forum. Build pics should go in a build log. Chit-chat should go in the Shore Leave forum. Thank you!
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Working from memory here, but if I recall correctly, eating the salt dough is a no-no, as the salt content is way too high. Kinda like drinking seawater.
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Try sending a PM to MSW member MrBlueJacket (BJ's owner).
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Ersatz Play-Doh.
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Congrats! Fabulous model and excellent build log, too.
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- basilone
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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Just be advised - a plank-on-bulkhead (POB) model isn't a walk in the park, either. Each method has its own skill set and learning curve, and there's hardly any way to decide which one you would like better until you've tried both. Don't be overly swayed by modelers who swear by one or the other. Their experiences are not a sure indicator of your future preferences. Before waffling on the POB vs. solid hull question, take a step back and ask yourself, what model(s) really, really appeal to you on a visceral level? Knowing the answer to that question will narrow down the search for you.
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What Jan said - they're a small business. Keep trying. You'll get hold of someone eventually.
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I moved this to the appropriate forum. You should probably hear from Chuck in the not-to-distant future. Regards,
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