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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Welcome aboard!
  2. If you can get your hands on a copy of Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini, he shows a simplified planking technique using the very similar Bluenose kit from Artesania Latina. A historically correct technique is not absolutely required if you intend to paint your model. A couple of bits of general advice: Avoid using the nails, unless you intend to remove them prior to sanding. There are better techniques for the job. The Amati design uses shamefully few bulkheads. Adding some pine or basswood filler blocks between them, then sanding them down to match the hull contours, will make planking much easier. Cheers!
  3. You know the old adage about form follows function, and some of the homeliest ships perform some of the most vital services.
  4. I am making agonizingly slow progress on this model, literally a couple of parts here and there every couple of days -- really having to push through on this one. In the meantime, I pulled the trigger on purchasing two additional Halinski kits to add to my stash, a Kawanishi N1K2-J Shiden-Kai (George) and a Messerschmitt Bf-109E-7/Trop. Both kits have been sold out at Halinski's web site for ages, and I have been scouring the internet off and on for a couple of years now in search of the N1K2-J. I knew of one web site that had that kit, but their shipping charges are astronomical, so I held out while looking for a cheaper source -- never did find one. When I recently saw that the expensive shop still has a copy, I decided to order it in spite of the stiff shipping charge. I added the 109E-7 to defray some of the cost and added laser-cut frames and a canopy to complete the deal (the site didn't have those items for the Kawanishi, but Halinski still has them). Let the waiting begin . . .
  5. Welcome aboard!
  6. Welcome aboard!
  7. Beautiful -- but your finished model should really be displayed in the gallery.
  8. Those depth charges drove me bananas on the 1/100 scale Modelik kit.
  9. Still, I think, doesn't quite match the level of idiotic self-immolation seen years ago in my infamous "absentmindedly transferring the hot plank bending iron from one hand to the other" incident.
  10. I should add that not all acrylic paints are created equally. I use cheap, craft store paints for my card models, and for that purpose the coarse pigments used in such paints are not an issue. For wooden models, I recommend that you use acrylics specifically formulated for models -- they have finer pigments and will thus produce smoother finishes.
  11. Either will do. It largely depends on what you're used to working with. Personally, I use acrylics simply because they're cheaper, they clean up with water, and I don't use an airbrush.
  12. Been almost a year now, so time to give this message a bump! Take heed, please! This means that @Old Rentner, @ExPat , @Начинающий судомоделист, @clearway, and @Rvandg: YOU ARE CURRENTLY AT RISK OF HAVING YOUR LOOSE GALLERY IMAGES DELETED. Please move them into albums soon! If you need help with creating an album, contact a moderator. Thank you!
  13. I'd suggest removing the wood between two bulkheads, then glue in a basswood plug to make a base for the replacement planks.
  14. I wish I had known about this walk-around earlier in the build process. https://www.net-maquettes.com/pictures/macchi-mc-200/
  15. Wow, very nice! Having the persistence to build all those oars is a stunning achievement in itself!
  16. Well, I got a wheel (singular) shaped. Each main gear wheel consists of four laminated disks. After gluing one up, I drill a hole through the center and use my Dremel tool to sand it to approximately the correct shape. After soaking it in some thin CA, I lightly sand it smooth. Here's a before-and-after: Don't worry -- the gaping holes get covered by paper hubs.
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