ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Andrew, the trick is to glue the rod perfectly perpendicular to the direction of the roll at precisely the edge of the rolled part, then let the glue set completely. Afterwards, the paper can be rolled quite tightly. Also, I do not apply glue to the entire length of the roll, only at intervals to keep the thing from unraveling and at the final edge. Also, I've had lots of practice! 😉- 150 replies
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Welcome, Mark! I have both of the kits you mentioned. The FF kit is a real stinker -- I took a lot of liberties with bashing it into a more typical West Coast schooner (you can see it in the gallery under 'Ghost'). Straight from the box that kit is a mess of terse, badly translated instructions and a plethora of ill-suited off-the-shelf fittings. The KC is a fine kit, but beyond the means of a beginner. Sadly, mine is still in the box after many years and is far down the queue of potential projects. The beginner's combo from Model Shipways has been very popular around here and should set you up well for your new indoor hobby. Cheers!
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Struts are next. First we have the basic struts -- each is a single paper piece wrapped around a length of 1 mm styrene rod. And then we begin adding bits. Like some other parts of this build, the struts suffer from the seemingly unnecessary duplication of parts. For example, some of the strut bits exist as printed parts AND as laser-cut parts on two different sheets, each having a different thickness. So, does one use part G15, the laser-cut G15, or the other laser-cut G15? Unlike HMV kit instructions, which indicate when laser-cut parts are an option, the GPM instructions don't provide that information, nor do they warn about the multitude of repeated parts. You can easily imagine the potential for confusion this causes.
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I don't see anything in your posts that is ban-worthy. Keep your chin up and model on!
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- Second Build
- Pinta
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Anchor Ring
ccoyle replied to Dave_E's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Scroll down to page 8 of this document for some info and an illustration. -
I got around to starting the landing gear. First, a photo of the gear doors. The left one is finished; the right one is still in its "frame." So, the main difficulty in building these stems from the fact that the doors are not flat -- each has a pronounced curve that goes around its strut. The way the kit tackles this is to start with a two-sided "frame" from which the central portion is removed. Then six curved panels are added, three interior and three exterior. Finally, the finished doors are cut loose from their frames. I'm satisfied with the results. Cheers!
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Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Just saw the Tank Museum link. I've watched many of their videos -- a great resource. -
Welcome aboard, Rich, from your neighbor to the north. All of the kits you mentioned are great projects and should set you up well for enjoying this great hobby. Cheers!
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Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
No problem. I was really making more of a snide comment on the unfortunate design flaw of the original. 😉 -
Russian T-62A Tank by CDW - Tamiya - 1/35 Scale FINISHED
ccoyle replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Does it come with uncompartmentalized ammo storage racks inside the turret? -
Looks great!
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And the bidding starts at only 500,000 GBP. No, thanks -- too rich for my wallet!
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USF Essex by mtbediz - FINISHED - 1:50
ccoyle replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
That is a very handsome model, Mustafa, and one to be proud of. Congratulations! -
Shave, shape -- makes no difference. Correcting that one word won't hide the fact that the instructions are practically worthless. Last night I distracted myself by doing a little painting of the resin wheels -- pictures later. How much later has not yet been determined!
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This is why you need to have a maritime gallery assess it, not a random model builder. The price range can vary considerably depending on the type of model, age, and condition. What you need to do is take a good set of photos and then Google search for "maritime art gallery"; one or more of them may be able to give you a preliminary assessment based on your photos, but to firm it up they would probably want to lay eyes on it. Tell them you have a ship shadow box diorama.
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So, I am now ready to start on the main landing gear, and this I can tell is going to be really, really fun. 😧 First, there is a ton of parts, including many tiny ones. Second, these parts are scattered across the parts sheets instead of being in one place together. Third, the bay doors have a curved surface in them, and just the main doors alone -- sans all of the strut attachment points, consist of five parts each; the curved parts are supposed to go in an area cryptically marked "cut out after forming" -- and I'm, like, "Dudes -- I can't see how the curved parts are supposed to fit unless I cut that portion out first." The instructions do not help on this point at all. I translated them into English, and this is what I got: "Refer to the assembly drawings to make the chassis shave. Particular attention should be paid to the precise and solid construction of the G12-G15 chassis leg suspension." That is the sole instruction on how to put the main gear struts together. Beats me what a "chassis shave" is. 🤔 The diagrams shed very little additional light on the assembly process. Pray for strength!!
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Some cardists do this to good effect, but I'm far too lazy, especially when an after-market canopy only costs a few dollars.
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Models in any medium are welcome here. Enjoy your stay!
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"canopy" = the clear, vacuformed after-market product "frames" the printed canopy + windscreen framing from the kit
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Hi, Shane. First word of advice is don't do anything to this model until you have had a knowledgeable maritime art dealer assess it. These things can have some collector's value depending on their age and provenance, and the patina of age may even be a desirable characteristic. The subject appears to be a bit fanciful. The ship has the masts and secondary battery of a pre-Dreadnought, but the American Civil War had demonstrated the superiority of turret-mounted main batteries, and casemate-mounted main guns were largely a thing of the past by the mid-1870s. AFAIK, all British pre-Dreadnoughts carried their main armament in turrets. Have fun unraveling this mystery!
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It turns out I overreacted a bit to the molded canopy issue -- it is apparently formed slightly over-sized on purpose. By gluing the framing to the portion of the canopy that it actually fit instead of presuming it should have followed the molded "edge" areas, everything works out. Of course, by not being able to follow the "edge" areas of the molded canopy, some guesswork is involved on where exactly to glue the frames in relation to the canopy's curvature, but that worked out, too.
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