ccoyle
-
Posts
9,008 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by ccoyle
-
Dave, I think that if you can complete Lady Nelson, you will be well-prepared for a kit like Supply. -
Beautiful! That's a great kit and a great result. Cheers!
- 275 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- phoenix
- master korabel
- (and 1 more)
-
5, 6: Superstructure (cont'd) They may be hard to see in some cases, but all of the starboard elements have been added except for the depth charge cradles. The parts tally for this task came to 67. Adding the 22 cradles will finish off this side, but I think I will do the port-side elements first and then do all of the port and starboard cradles in one go. That will leave me one end of the superstructure that I can safely grasp without knocking stuff loose.
- 331 replies
-
- 19
-
-
This is one of Chris Watton's very early Caldercraft designs, and the spartan instructions are typical for those early kits. Still, Ballahoo is not a complex vessel, and the kit makes an attractive model. Be sure to check out some of the other build logs for her if you haven't done so yet. Good luck and enjoy!
-
I don't think I've seen one bad example of the Winnie being built. This has to be one of the premier group projects in the greater wooden ship modeling community and is a testament to both the project itself and to the skills of its participants.
-
I didn't even know there was such a thing. Might be a bit of overkill. Sometimes I use my knife tip to pick up a part -- just stick the part and lift. It doesn't leave a visible mark.
-
Nearly every card model that I have ever built calls for some parts to be made from plastic rod or wire, even if they are subsequently sheathed in paper. Landing gear strutsare just one example. Some of the parts in this kit are indeed optional, e.g. parts for doubling, such as the electrical boxes and such, which are already printed on the parent part; doubling just adds depth. Laser-cut parts either replace paper parts that are less detailed (e.g. radar) or that would be very difficult to cut out neatly. As an example of deciding whether to use certain optional parts, just this evening I completed a "chest of drawers" (I don't know what this would be called in WWII naval parlance) -- it has three lids on its top, plus three large and twelve small drawers on its front. All of those features are printed on the basic structure, but parts are provided to double all of the lids and drawers. If all of the optional parts were to be used, the resulting tiny structure would consist of nineteen parts! The small drawers are each only 0.5 mm square. In the end, I decided that the hassle of cutting out, edge coloring, gluing, and properly aligning the small drawers wouldn't yield an appreciable increase in the visual interest of the model. Big drawers yes, small drawers no -- a kind of "law of diminishing returns" thing. Cheers!
- 331 replies
-
- 11
-
-
-
Great story! I'm a California native, so I enjoyed all of the geographical references. I grew up in Humboldt County and lived in Mariposa for 12 years before I moved to South Carolina -- I tell folks around here that I'm from "the other California." I also tell them that they have "cute little mountains" here. 😄
-
Some of JSC's designs date all the way back to the 1960s, which is old for a card model, though perhaps not for a card modeler.
- 331 replies
-
- 12
-
-
-
5,6: Superstructure Details I added all of the flat elements to the superstructure first, then moved on to the grab rails -- still a work in progress at this point. I ran into a teensy issue. See if you can spot it: Yeah, the color of those laser-cut details doesn't match the color of the printed hull parts. I'm going to have to paint them, as I did with the far right grab rail in the photo. Oh, well!
- 331 replies
-
- 12
-
-
Yep, that was kind of my point. 😄 On the flip side, I find these older ships much more visually interesting than, say, a Zumwalt-class destroyer.
-
That does look too large. Did you double-check to make sure you're using the correct block and line diameter?
-
5: Superstructure Sides The superstructure sides have been added, but since then construction has proceeded very slowly. Part of that is due to the sheer number of elements that must be added to the sides -- WWII sailors in the Southwest Pacific were obviously unconcerned about how much electromagnetic radiation from enemy radars bounced off of their ships. Even the tiny gongs and electrical boxes are included as doubled parts. The second reason for the slow progress is that options are provided for replacing some of the flat paper parts with more 3-dimensional upgrades; these add a bit more detail but take more time to construct. In this first image, showing the still incomplete forward port-side wall, there are already thirteen elements in place. Two of them are optional replacements, including the steam pipe in the foreground, which is made of five individual segments (the piping around the funnel will eventually consist of far more). In this shot is a scratch-built rack of pipes shown with the original flat paper parts being replaced. The pipes are 11 mm long. I played around with some washes to bring out the details. As usual, they look way better in real life than in this sad cell phone image. Note the electrical box beneath the left-hand bracket. That's it for now!
- 331 replies
-
- 20
-
-
-
Yep. So the buyer is paying for five kits, two of which he could get for free from the publisher. It is. It's also not particularly well built, and it's the second HMV kit I saw the seller trying to pawn off as a scratch build.
- 27 replies
-
- 5
-
-
-
- eBay
- kit piracy
- (and 1 more)
-
Here's another loser trying to find a sucker on eBay. After all, he only needs one.
- 27 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- eBay
- kit piracy
- (and 1 more)
-
Here's another one. The seller is legitimate, but why would this offer not be a good deal?
- 27 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- eBay
- kit piracy
- (and 1 more)
-
See how long it takes you to spot why this eBay seller is not your friend!
- 27 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- eBay
- kit piracy
- (and 1 more)
-
New Member Introduction and Need Some Advice
ccoyle replied to Artisan's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! Unfortunately, there are several difficulties regarding your request. The first is the scale. The nature of wooden ship hulls necessarily limited their length, which happily for us modelers keeps wooden ship subjects in the size range that can produce reasonably-sized models in scales between 1/48 and 1/96. Steel hulls allowed larger ships to be built, which ultimately meant that models of them needed to be built in smaller scales to keep them at manageable sizes. For example, I'm currently building a WWII destroyer escort -- a small warship by the standards of the day. But even at 1/250 scale, the finished model will be roughly 14 inches in length. The second issue is the requirement for wooden kits. Once upon a time, wooden kits were the norm, but after WWII plastic kits quickly became the medium of choice, and the crude wooden kits that preceded them have become collectors' items. Civil War, WWI, and WWII warships are almost entirely available these days as either plastic, resin, or card models with the most popular scales being 1/100, 1/200, 1/250, and 1/400 for card, and 1/250 or 1/350 for plastic and resin. Only a handful of Civil War steam frigates are available as wooden kits, but none in 1/60. If you are adamant about finding a kit in a larger scale, the only practical solution I know of is to resort to RC kits. These typically include fiberglass or GRP hulls. To get a feel for what is available, you can check out the selection at Fleetscale. Hope that helps! -
Welcome aboard, and lovely result on your first effort!
- 4 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Modellers Shipyard
- Finished
- (and 2 more)
-
I actually asked for a Swann-Morton handle and blades for Christmas, and even provided a link to the exact Swann-Morton products. But, instead, I received two (!) Chinese-made knock-offs. And since it's bad form to whine about Christmas gifts, I gave the knock-offs a tryout. I have the same issue with the blade tips flexing. But it's not all bad news -- I find the scalpel a better tool for chopping tasks, since the blades have a narrower kerf and therefore produce a less-beveled cut.
- 331 replies
-
- 11
-
-
Looking good! The Mastini book has been around quite a while now -- it was a big source of encouragement for me when I got started.
-
Beautiful!
Our Emblem ®
