ccoyle

Hi All,
Since I won’t be ordering the replacement book and laser etch frames to start the hull again until the end of Feb/March I decided to work on the photo-etch 37mm twin cannons.  As mentioned above I had 2 sheets of photo-etch each making 5 guns giving a total of 10.
 
One gun assembly consists of 65 individual parts and since I am doing all 10 at once I will have eventually cut and glued 650 parts
 
Starting from the bottom up, parts 1 to 8 make up the mounting pedestal, the base plate and the main body.  All 10 assemblies  cut out and cleaned up.

 
 
Close up of the components for starting 1 gun.  The etch on the base plate is quite impressive considering its size.  It shows a perimeter rail and checker plate pattern.

 
 
The pedestal is made up of a circular base, a flat strip and a couple of flanges.  It took a bit of head scratching where the bolted flanges were supposed to go but a quick look in the AOTS made it obvious.  The two flanges were glued together then the flat strip was bent round a drill shank and placed inside the flanges.  The strip has a groove down the middle which the inside edge of the flange sits in.  Then it’s a case of gluing the circular base to the bottom of the strip.

 
 
All the pedestals completed.  I filled some of the internal cup with 2 part epoxy as the CA didn’t like holding the circular base to the edge of the strip.

 
 
The main body which sits on the base plate is bent from a single panel into a rectangle and the top and bottom is closed off with little end caps.

 
 
All the bodies bent and the end caps glued in.  Again I used epoxy to secure the end caps.  Using epoxy is slowing the build as usually have to wait several hours or the next day before can clean it up.  CA although quick isn’t suitable for parts where I need to clean up with files etc.  Once the end caps were on a good filing cleaned up any sticking out edges and flushed everything down nicely.

 
 
The front panel is a single plate which needs the sides bent to sit on to the main body.  I actually lost one of these panels.  I have no idea where it went.  I thought to only make 9 guns and get another sheet when I order more stuff to finish the 10th but decided to see if I could make one.
 
The only photo-etch sheets which had a large enough panel to cut out a replacement was on the railings sheet.  4 attempts later I made a new front panel which is average at best but once all the other parts are on shouldn’t be noticeable. 

 
 
The main body of the gun has a large bulge on both sides, which according to the AOTS are hinged, so imagine they contain some of the gun training mechanisms.  Here is 80 parts all cut out which is needed to do 2 bulges for each of the 10 cannon assemblies.  A perimeter strip, a bulge panel and a top and bottom cap makes on side.

 
 
I thought the perimeter strip would be the most difficult part to do on the guns due to the size and shape but turned out relatively straight forward.  The main body has the shape etched in to it to show its position.

 
 
Here are 10 bodies with the end caps on, the front panel attached and the one side of the bulge perimeter strip fitted.  They look quite messy but that is epoxy and brass dust from filing the complete assembly prior to fitting the perimeter strip.

 
 
Next up is to fix the other side perimeter strip and then finish the bulges.  Once that’s done I will attach the pedestal and main body to the base plate and then the really fiddly parts start with the seating and gun training wheels etc.
 
Cheers
Slog

That's dedication to craftsmanship, Mark.  Good luck on the Mk II!

And finally, a few dabs of touch-up paint here and there, and a careful separation of the model from its working base (sliding mono-filament line between the two does the trick neatly), and V108 is done, done, done!



 
I hope you have enjoyed reading this tutorial as much as I have enjoyed creating it.  I really, really hope that at least a few of you will be emboldened by this little treatise to step out and try a card model of your own.  Let's see what you can do!

So, how do our thread railings look on the model?  Judge for yourself:

 
Adding the railings consists of measuring off the right length of railing to add, adding any extra stanchions that might be needed due to cutting to length, and gluing the railings to the model.  I use PVA for straight sections and CA where necessary to tack down any sharp curves.  I brush the PVA onto the deck where the railing goes, not to the railing itself - these springy railings are a great way to spread unwanted glue on your model.
 
Here's the finished forecastle railings:


 
The forward flagstaff is a short length of wire.
 
Anywhere there are angled bends in the railings, I prefer to cut the railing at the joint and glue down two separate panels.  Unlike photo-etched metal or card, thread does not like to make nice, crisp bends.

Chris Watton designed both kits, so both of them will have similar design concepts.  However, Chris being the innovator he is, he has regularly made improvements to his designs with each new issue, and that will be reflected in the Vanguard kit, since it is by far the newer of the two.  I have the Amati/Victory Models Fly kit in progress and can tell you honestly it is a great kit.  But like any kit, it has compromises and can be improved upon by any modeller wishing to do a little extra research and work.  Same is most likely true for Vanguard.  I have also built a Caldercraft kit, and it was a great kit, too.  So, bottom line is both are good kits, but both can be taken up a notch, especially since you say you have experience scratching parts.  The deciding factor may well be how much model do you want to commit to?  One is a frigate, the other is a ship of the line with all that entails.  Either of them will be a long-term project, so I'd go with whichever one set my heart to beating just that much faster.
 
Cheers!

Chris Watton designed both kits, so both of them will have similar design concepts.  However, Chris being the innovator he is, he has regularly made improvements to his designs with each new issue, and that will be reflected in the Vanguard kit, since it is by far the newer of the two.  I have the Amati/Victory Models Fly kit in progress and can tell you honestly it is a great kit.  But like any kit, it has compromises and can be improved upon by any modeller wishing to do a little extra research and work.  Same is most likely true for Vanguard.  I have also built a Caldercraft kit, and it was a great kit, too.  So, bottom line is both are good kits, but both can be taken up a notch, especially since you say you have experience scratching parts.  The deciding factor may well be how much model do you want to commit to?  One is a frigate, the other is a ship of the line with all that entails.  Either of them will be a long-term project, so I'd go with whichever one set my heart to beating just that much faster.
 
Cheers!

Chris Watton designed both kits, so both of them will have similar design concepts.  However, Chris being the innovator he is, he has regularly made improvements to his designs with each new issue, and that will be reflected in the Vanguard kit, since it is by far the newer of the two.  I have the Amati/Victory Models Fly kit in progress and can tell you honestly it is a great kit.  But like any kit, it has compromises and can be improved upon by any modeller wishing to do a little extra research and work.  Same is most likely true for Vanguard.  I have also built a Caldercraft kit, and it was a great kit, too.  So, bottom line is both are good kits, but both can be taken up a notch, especially since you say you have experience scratching parts.  The deciding factor may well be how much model do you want to commit to?  One is a frigate, the other is a ship of the line with all that entails.  Either of them will be a long-term project, so I'd go with whichever one set my heart to beating just that much faster.
 
Cheers!

Darr,
 
Nature Coast Hobby Shop also sells this sort of kit/tool combo.  Personally, I would be cautious about buying something like this, as the tools included might or might not be something your dad would find useful, and for the prices listed you can probably buy a kit and some basic tools for less.  If your dad has not modeled anything in a while, I'd recommend one of the kits from Midwest Products to get old skills back up to speed.  These kits are inexpensive (and can usually be found on eBay for significantly less than retail), have good instructions, and always include a thorough list of needed tools, some of which are likely already in your dad's house somewhere.
 
Kind regards,

Darr,
 
Nature Coast Hobby Shop also sells this sort of kit/tool combo.  Personally, I would be cautious about buying something like this, as the tools included might or might not be something your dad would find useful, and for the prices listed you can probably buy a kit and some basic tools for less.  If your dad has not modeled anything in a while, I'd recommend one of the kits from Midwest Products to get old skills back up to speed.  These kits are inexpensive (and can usually be found on eBay for significantly less than retail), have good instructions, and always include a thorough list of needed tools, some of which are likely already in your dad's house somewhere.
 
Kind regards,

Maybe someone is interested in a few old photos taken by my great grandfather. All of them are taken around 1880-1900
 
Can not add them in the running text since there seems to be some problems with Windows 8.1 / IE11 on this site.
 
1 Erato - owned by my great grandfather and used for pleasure and also in his business - he exported wooden bobins for spinning machines used in the British textile industry.
 
2 Erato in Travemûnde
 
3 4 5 Marstrand harbour on the Swedish west coast. Marstrand is known for being icefree almost any winter and also because king Oscar II used to spend part of the summer there. The Swedish gentry used to follow behind.
 
6 Marstrand  - I think it is the Royal Yacht that you can see in the background
 
Got a couple of pictures outside of these  - e.g. ships crew - if anyone is interested
 
Shamrock

Dan,
 
I can tell from just a few photos that you've already taken this wreck up quite a few notches.  Cudos to you for sticking with your commitment.
 
At the risk of seeming uncaring (which I have the feeling you are NOT), I would probably be thinking of balancing my efforts with your friends' expectations--in other words, what seems only mediocre to you, might be fabulous to them.  But knowing your standards, I bet it's very difficult to do a sub-par (to you) job. 
 
Wishing you a good and speedy outcome,
Ron

I think the fact that I keep wondering, "How did she do that?" when I see your work speaks volumes about your abilities.  Very impressive!
 
Cheers!

These small Caldercraft kits present wonderful opportunities for super-detailing, if that is something that interests you.  All of these kits, which by the way were designed by Chris Watton who frequents the forum regularly, will build into very nice models straight out of the box.  But, since they were designed with beginners in mind, they are somewhat simplified.  Caldercraft's Sherbourne kit is one such model that has been souped up by some of our members; as one example, check out this build by dubz, who has a knack for this sort of thing.  Another angle to consider, though this might not be all that appealing to an English builder, is that Ballahoo was captured by the Americans during the War of 1812, and although there is little documentation of her after that event, it would be interesting to see a model of her done up in hypothetical American livery.  No matter which build route you decide to go, have fun with this kit and rest secure knowing it is a quality model and well-suited for a novice builder.
 
Cheers!

These small Caldercraft kits present wonderful opportunities for super-detailing, if that is something that interests you.  All of these kits, which by the way were designed by Chris Watton who frequents the forum regularly, will build into very nice models straight out of the box.  But, since they were designed with beginners in mind, they are somewhat simplified.  Caldercraft's Sherbourne kit is one such model that has been souped up by some of our members; as one example, check out this build by dubz, who has a knack for this sort of thing.  Another angle to consider, though this might not be all that appealing to an English builder, is that Ballahoo was captured by the Americans during the War of 1812, and although there is little documentation of her after that event, it would be interesting to see a model of her done up in hypothetical American livery.  No matter which build route you decide to go, have fun with this kit and rest secure knowing it is a quality model and well-suited for a novice builder.
 
Cheers!

So, how do our thread railings look on the model?  Judge for yourself:

 
Adding the railings consists of measuring off the right length of railing to add, adding any extra stanchions that might be needed due to cutting to length, and gluing the railings to the model.  I use PVA for straight sections and CA where necessary to tack down any sharp curves.  I brush the PVA onto the deck where the railing goes, not to the railing itself - these springy railings are a great way to spread unwanted glue on your model.
 
Here's the finished forecastle railings:


 
The forward flagstaff is a short length of wire.
 
Anywhere there are angled bends in the railings, I prefer to cut the railing at the joint and glue down two separate panels.  Unlike photo-etched metal or card, thread does not like to make nice, crisp bends.

Next we'll add the searchlight (parts 45a-g).

 
First, I'll show you how to replace the paper lens (45e) with an optional clear lens (key word: optional).  Start by rolling 45 into a tube.  Next, dab one end of the open tube into some white PVA, so that a film of glue covers the entire opening.  Set that aside to dry.  In the meantime, cut out the back of the lamp housing (45b). We'll use the resulting hole in the parts sheet as a guide for cutting out a small circle of reflective material for the inside of the housing.  I used the foil-lined seal from a vitamin pill bottle - the foil is backed by paper, making it easy to glue the reflective liner to the back (interior) side of 45b.  Make sure the liner is cut slightly smaller than 45b, because 45b will sit on the tube, but the liner must fit inside the tube.  Here's the lamp housing with the optional clear lens, the foil-lined seal, and 45b with the foil liner cut to fit.

 
I didn't add louvers.  If you want those, you're on your own.
 
And here's the finished lamp housing.  I know -- exciting shot, isn't it?

 
The searchlight mount (45a, c, f, and g) is a straightforward assembly, although once again it has some pretty small parts.  Just work patiently and make sure you hold the parts over your work place.  Up to this point I have dropped a couple of the smallest parts on the floor, and during the ensuing searches I found dirt particles on the floor that were larger than the parts.

 
Attach the lamp housing to the mount (the sides of the brackets, 45c, should reach slightly past the small box, 45e, and up onto the sides of the lamp housing), and then glue the mount to the top of the bridge.

 
Let there be light!
 

The first thing you need to ascertain is which Herreshoff kit are you building?  The Boy's Boat is one of the designs BJ acquired when they purchased the old Laughing Whale company years ago.  Since then, BJ has updated some of the Laughing Whale designs, but (to the best of my knowledge) not all of them.  The old Laughing Whale kit was not true to the original Herreshoff design, in that the kit uses the typical POB construction method (like in your Midwest lobster smack), and this will be plainly visible on the finished model.  I used to have the Laughing Whale version years ago, and the only thing I can dimly remember that might have been caution-worthy is that the number of bulkheads was on the small side, with extensions that could probably be snapped off somewhat easily, but this is true for many small boat kits.  Other than that, the materials were good.  The instructions were sparse - nothing like what you would get in a Midwest kit, for example.  BJ do have a good reputation for customer support, so if you ran into difficulties you could most likely get help from them. 

The first thing you need to ascertain is which Herreshoff kit are you building?  The Boy's Boat is one of the designs BJ acquired when they purchased the old Laughing Whale company years ago.  Since then, BJ has updated some of the Laughing Whale designs, but (to the best of my knowledge) not all of them.  The old Laughing Whale kit was not true to the original Herreshoff design, in that the kit uses the typical POB construction method (like in your Midwest lobster smack), and this will be plainly visible on the finished model.  I used to have the Laughing Whale version years ago, and the only thing I can dimly remember that might have been caution-worthy is that the number of bulkheads was on the small side, with extensions that could probably be snapped off somewhat easily, but this is true for many small boat kits.  Other than that, the materials were good.  The instructions were sparse - nothing like what you would get in a Midwest kit, for example.  BJ do have a good reputation for customer support, so if you ran into difficulties you could most likely get help from them. 

And finally, a few dabs of touch-up paint here and there, and a careful separation of the model from its working base (sliding mono-filament line between the two does the trick neatly), and V108 is done, done, done!



 
I hope you have enjoyed reading this tutorial as much as I have enjoyed creating it.  I really, really hope that at least a few of you will be emboldened by this little treatise to step out and try a card model of your own.  Let's see what you can do!

Thanks everyone for the comments!
 
Kevin- I am using the KA Models Mk1 superset and Eduard PE; there are plently of duplicates but they do compliment each other fairly well; the Eduard set contains many details KA missed and vice-versa.
 
Foremast- I am airbrushing the superstructure with Model Master "Lichtrgrau" acryl and steel decks with Tamiya medium grey. The hull above the waterline is rattlecan Model master "Navy agressor grey" and below is Tamiya Guards Red (I think).
 
I have still been puttering along with her; I got the docking wings on along with may other details (with plenty more to go!)
 

 

 
I also am about 2/3rds through building all the AA guns:
 

 

 

There are two types of sellers....
 
1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists.   You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale.
 
2. Commercial business....online stores  No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum.   If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site.  As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page.  Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators.
 
 
Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience.  You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum.   
 
1) Post some pictures of the item.
2) Offer to give your phone number via PM.
3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method.
4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency).
5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country.
6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc.  You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. 
 
Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

Norman - although I found them to be the devil to assemble and paint, I'm glad I tried.  Next ship I'd like to do a few more cannons which I enjoyed making up quite a bit more.
 
 
Stergios - the deck blocks were the first thing I glued, sliding beds were then attached to these (with supplied painted brass wire and CA glue).
 
Little bit of progress on carronades, prob won't post more until I've made some progress on slide tackles.  Planking under capstan is made from walnut strips rather than the ply part supplied.  Mizzen pinrails still need a fair amount of tidying up and not fixed.  Not much deck space left at the stern!
 

Hello friends,
 
Good news, the Admiral, Gwen, made it back home safe.  She left at 05:50 from Coraopolis, PA (a suburb of Pittsburgh) and pulled in dockside at the shipyard at 18:40, 13 hours on the nose for 900 miles.
Needles to say I had very little time to devote on ship building in the last few days, lost of little chores and talking.  She wanted me to cut off the nut branches of our queen palms.  A messy job.
Even so, I managed to do some work on the O 19 sub this afternoon.
 
So this evening a like to add a few more pics of the sloop.  I have only one picture of the planking, I figured all y'all know how to plank boats and ships and besides, there is a great tutorial right here on MSW.
I used a little unorthodox method as you'll see but it worked for me.  The white strings you see are aircraft rib stitching cord, left over from my previous life as antique aircraft restorer.  Yes, I also used clothe pins clamping the planks to the ribs and large C clamps.  The cord also ensured a nice close seam.
It's obvious that I didn't really follow the planking tutorial, I wanted the hull closed quickly and was not too concerned in following the standard practice, Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm a bad boy     
I figured that it's going to be painted anyway so why "wasting" so much time.  I learned enough for the next planned project, the VOC ship "Surabaya."  Which btw worked out just fine.
 
Oaky, the pics will tell the story.
 

One of the stages of planking in progress.  
 

Starboard view of the planking completed.  Some sanding was started.  Here I had not yet lowered the tops of the cabin bulkheads.
 

Port view of the completed planking.  Some sanding was started and you can see that I added some wood filler in spots.  
 

Top view of planked hull. I also completed gluing in the cabin deck planks.  The forecastle access door is clearly visible and I framed the forecastle hatch and mast holes.
 

Bow view of planked hull.  You can see that I added a little filler where the planks met the rabbet, it was a little rough.  This and the following picture were taken after I cut down the tops of the cabin bulkheads.  It proved to have been the right decision.  
 

Stern view of the planked hull.  This shows the cut down bulkheads really well.  I had to use just a little filler on the transom.  Overall I had to use very little filler, Everything flowed quite nicely.
 
Cheers,

Thank you all for your like votes.
 
I shall not bother showing the temporary placement of all the frames, you've seen one then you've seen all    There were two frames I had to remake because I found out later when putting the shear batten on I must cut them on the wrong pencil line.  
 
There are several pictures I forgot to make in the build op to this stage.  At this stage I had made the forecastle bulkhead and all the other cabin bulkheads .  As mentioned in a previous post that I made my own plywood from cherry veneer.  I made 1/8 inch for the bulkheads and 1/16 inch plywood for the interior paneling and bunks. 
 
I also made an access door in the forecastle bulkhead to the sail locker where the generator with the fuel tank and potable water tank are.  The door works.
 

View from the stern with all bulkheads installed.  The cabin deck planking was also glued in and you may see part of the forecastle door.  looking at this pic and the next one from the bow I thought that the cabin roof seemed to be a little too high.  It just didn't look right to me.  You'll notice in future installments that I cut them down a little.   Oh, there were a few other changes I made like adding small cupboards in the galley where the oval openings are.  
 

View from the bow.  This pic really shows my displeasure with the hight of the cabin bulkheads.   
 

An aerial view.  Here you can clearly see the door in the forecastle.  The head, cabin and galley deck are on the same level.  Right behind the forecastle bulkhead is the head and wash room.  There will be a curtain for privacy.  The opening in the deck framing ahead of the forecastle bulkhead is for the sail locker hatch and the mast.
 

Port side side view.  In retrospect I could have made the stern deadwood a little higher but it worked out okay with the frames extended.  If or when I'll remake this model in a larger scale I'll certainly will do that.
 
Cheers, 

Hello my friends,
 
I made some progress again  
 
The galion is finished. I had to make some improvements because of dimensions of parts, but it quite fits.
The rest of wales on upper parts is glued also ( so all of them are there finally  )
As the next part I´ve just started balcony - it will be reconstructed - I don´t like the graphics used by shipyard on this parts ( and, by the way, there is something different on the picture at the front of the kit  ). As surface finish I used strips of foil. Now I have to produce all of ornaments ( letters E and R, fleurs de lis and flowers ). Why do not complicate some things.    I tried to check dimensions of it with the ship - it fits.
 
 
Jan