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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. russ
    Ron: That is just about how I spile planking. You did a great job there. Russ
  2. russ
    I use Minwax prestain conditioner and then Minwax oil based stains. I have been able to get a nice even cherry color using this combination on basswood. You apply the stain within a few minutes of the conditioner and then allow it to soak in. The longer you leave it on before you wipe it off, the darker the color. Russ
  3. russ
    The bulwarks look good. The angle at the stern is actually pretty good. This hull had outward flair above the deck just about the entire length of the bulwarks. You can probably coax the sides in a little at the stern if needs be. Russ
  4. russ
    Andy: Splicing was a constant routine on board any ship, so it might look right at home. Russ
  5. russ
    Thanks. As I have never had any problems with Brass Black from Bluejacket Shipcrafters, that is what I will continue to use. Russ
  6. russ
    I am not familar with Carrs in modeling work. However, if it works, that is a good thing. I am not certain of the availability and I can only relate what I have learned from my experience with soldering. I hope that it is helpful to someone. Russ
  7. russ
    I agree that some soldered joints are not under stress, however, soft soldered joints will not take chemcial toning while silver soldered joints will. Of course, you can always paint the pieces, but that will often obscure details. As for flux, I use a prefluxed soldering paste. In the case of deadeye strops and chainplates, they will be under some sort of stress at some point and that is why silver soldering is really the best option for those joints. I have had soft soldered joints in deadeye straps come loose and it leaves the shrouds limp. If I had silver soldered those joints, it would not have happened. This same reasoning applies to eye bolts or rings used in tackles, or eyes on mastbands. Russ
  8. russ
    That is a nice looking assembly. I agree with John. It looks like it might actually work. Russ
  9. russ
    Do with that treenailing list what you will. Russ
  10. russ
    Brian: I have silver soldered joints fairly close to one another on several occasions and I have always used the higher temp solder and the torch. Never had any problems. It may be that there would be problems in certain insances, but I have not found them yet. When I solder 4 eyes onto a mastband, it seems to work just fione using one temp of solder. Russ
  11. russ
    That maple looks pretty good. I see some figure it one end of it. That might have to avoided, but I would just suggest careful selection in any event. Make sure the saw blade is sharp. I have found that maple will get burn marks if the blade is anything but sharp. Russ
  12. russ
    Carl: The shape of the piece does not matter when it comes to filing. Straight or curved, angled etc really will not make a difference. You just need to have an assortment of 4 inch jeweler's files that you can use on the various parts. Russ
  13. russ
    When heating brass strips, just heat until it glows red. Then take the heat away and let it cool. No water. Russ
  14. russ
    Robbyn: You have made a fairly good job of the rudder hinges. The materials they give are not all that great, but you have solved it well enough. It will look good in the end. Nice work. Russ
  15. russ
    I honestly do not know and I am not in a position for a few days where I can look it up. The idea sounds good, but I am not certain. Russ
  16. russ
    I always file my soldered joints afterwards. If the joint is done properly, the filing will clean them up with no problems. After that, they can be chemically toned and they looks just fine. Russ
  17. russ
    So long as you are mindful of how the planks can "creep" up the stem and you avoid them doing that, then you are okay. Russ
  18. russ
    Carl: Nice job on the chainplates. That is really very good work. Russ
  19. russ
    At your larger scale, you can go down to 1" and it will look good. Russ
  20. russ
    The block and the rigging line are beautiful. Russ
  21. russ
    Michael: Thanks. It was actually very enjoyable to do. Russ
  22. russ
    That looks pretty good. I think you should have a pretty good looking hull at the end of this. Russ
  23. russ
    The stern planking looks pretty good. That is a good first step. Russ
  24. russ
    Baris: I agree with Chuck about the proper way to plank. I would definitely recommend those planking guides that Chuck linked to. I also realize that you are probably wanting to work within the confines of the kit. Those kit supplied planking strips will work, you will just have to cut them to fit and let them lay on the first layer as naturally as possible. It is not how the boat was actually planked, but it will get the job done and look nice if done with care. You can use pins to hold your second layer planks in place, but pin into the first layer and let the cap of the pin hold down the second layer plank. That way there will be no unsightly holes in the finished planking. As for glue, I like to use yellow carpenter's glue, but any good water based glue will work fine. Just keep a damp rag handy to wipe off squeeze out etc. This is much easier than using super glues, but it will take a bit longer to dry. Russ
  25. russ
    Jamie: It is good to see you get back in here. Thanks for the kind words. Russ

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