russ
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Everything posted by russ
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The framework looks pretty good so far. I could not see the warp in the bulk you mention. So long as the center profile former is not warped, you should be okay. A slight warp across one bulkhead will probably not be a big deal. Any difference should be taken care of during the fairing process when you prep the hull for planking. Russ
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Looks like you are off and running. Russ
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Patrick: Congratulations on a fine model. It looks great. Well done. I think the 15 star flag will do nicely. Russ
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I have never seen a model with that sort of profile former. Are you sure that they meant for you to sandwich the pieces together like that? I would have thought that you would have two pieces, front and back. It almost sounds like you got two profile formers in your kit. I do not know why they would have done that. However, if the instructions specifically mention the sandwiched pieces, then it must be so. Russ
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Howard I. Chapelle wrote a book called The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935 and he included his field notes from his research on Gloucester built fishing schooners like this one. Russ
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Regarding the painting of metal work, if it does not move, paint it. Now, on the cap, what about it puzzles you? Its construction? How it works? Russ
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The Fair a Frame is indeed a waste of time. But, if you are having fun with it.... Seriously, there are plenty better ways to get your frames in straight and true. I use a steel machinist's square made for model work. Russ
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I always use Elmer's yellow carpenter's glue. The Elmer's wood glue will be fine. Russ
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Frame shape transition-Problems with Model Shipways kit frames.
russ replied to bear's topic in Wood ship model kits
Any Model Shipways kit should have the pieces properly cut so you can get them to line up with no problem. If the pieces are cut incorrectly, it is a manufacturing error which will happened from time to time in mass producing a kit. If you happened to get a badly cut kit, you need to contact Model Expo by email and phone to see about getting replacement parts. They back their kits so that if you need replacements for any reason, they will send them at no cost. Since this is a Model Shipways kit, there should be no problem getting a new set of bulkheads. Send them an email request and then back that up with a phone call a day or so later. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. Are you certain that you have the frames mounted in their proper order. It may sound silly, but it is good to check and make sure. Russ -
Bob: The hull looks great. I like how you managed the bulwarks and stanchions. Very nice work. Russ
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I am pretty sure that there is a hole drilled in the deck to accept the tenon. The mast coat fit around the diameter of the mast so if there is a tenon on the end of the mast, it must have a hole to fit into. I would PM Chuck since he designed the kit. I am sure he can help you with it. Russ
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Steve: It was sent to me by a friend from Australia many years ago. I do not know where she got it or any brand name. Sorry. Russ
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If you look at the area under the post you are writing, the photos appear in small thumbnails after you click add to post. They will automatically appear in the post once you click add reply. You can see how they will appear by clicking the preview post button. Russ
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Chuck designed the kit so you do not have the slots for the masts. Read his instructions on stepping the masts and it will be explained. Russ
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Henry: I has a nice density to it that you cannot get in a typical cotton. It gives the impression of a higher thread count. I have been very happy with the results even at small scales. Russ
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For what it is worth, I use Japara cotton. I got a good supply of that material years ago from your neck of the woods. It is good material to work with. I sew my sails, for the most part, by hand, but I have used a machine for larger sails, especially on the panel seams. The hems (properly called tablings) I usually hand sew. I measure the sail to include the extra material to fold the tabling over once, and then once again to get a clean edge on both sides of the sail. The panel seams in the body of the sail can be done with a single line of stitches, or if you can measure and sew them closely enough, you can do the two lines of stitches for each seam. I would only do this larger scales though. For 1/48 scale and smaller, the single stitch line for the seams is enough. Hope that helps. Russ
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Bob: The only reference I could find was in Chapelle's field notes in American Fishing Schooners. On page 625 there is a note as part of the stanchion and rail fittings for the schooner Philip P. Manta. It says, "Staple in plate on bow chock for foreboom tackle pendant, also for seine boat towing boom." He also mentions a staple in the chockrail for the schooner Rhodora. On page 627, he gives a very detailed drawing of a staple bolt, saying the "staple goes through monkey rail, and bridge block, aft of fore rigging. Plate let in flush with top of monkey rail cap. Large staple like this on underside of pole bowsprit for bobstay, (inner)." All of the placements for the staple on the rails are either down through one of the forward stanchions or very nearly so. Russ
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Tom: I would suggest looking at the photos of the stern of the Hull model of the Constitution, made in 1812. The model in general is very crude, but it has its good points, mainly the rigging. The model was made by the crew as a present for Captain Hull and its stern decorations are a reliable rendering of what was there at that time. It is a more reliable and better source for this ship than the AOS book. Russ
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Bulkhead alignment question
russ replied to Poppi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You would need to be VERY careful to get all of those bulkheads aligned EXACTLY so that the dowel would pass through them and they seat then correctly on the profile former. I would simply square each bulkhead up as you install it and then maybe add blocks in between the bulkheads. This would strengthen the hull without risky an all too likely misalignment of the bulkheads. Russ -
Jack: I strongly suggest you practice soldering whenever you can. Even if it is just to make a few odds and ends, practice makes perfect (or in my case something nearly acceptable). In any case, practice will help hone your skills. That is how I managed to get this far. There is always something new to learn. The low temp solder used in soft soldering is fine for some things, but I learned the hard way that if anything is going to be under pressure, hard soldering is better. Soft soldering is like gluing two pieces together while hard soldering is like welding. Soft solder will fill gaps and hard solder will not. Hard soldering demands that the pieces be touching. However, hard soldering will make two pieces into one which soft soldering will not do. Once I began hard soldering, I have never used any other kind of solder. Russ
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Keep in mind, I have never used any pickling solution. I just use a 4 inch jeweler's file to scrub the joint bright. Never had a problem getting the joint to blacken. Russ
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I have been using some pre fluxed silver brazing paste for about 10 years now. It melts at about 1100-1200 degrees. I have never had a problem chemically blackening the joints. I always give the joints a good filing afterward. That could have something to do with it. Others use a pickling solution to clean the joints prior to blackening. Your fairleads look good to my eye. That is a good solution. I will have to file that away for future reference. Russ
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Jack: Very good start. This will be a beautiful model. Russ
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
russ replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
So far the head rails look very good. Nice work. Russ -
Actually, they would have shifted the framing timbers where necessary to frame the gun ports rather than shifting the ports. Russ
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