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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. Tim: I agree that the pedestal placement looks good. This is one of those things where your eye has to guide you a bit. The 1/3 hull length is a good place to begin and you have refined it for your model. Nice job. Russ
  2. Beautiful design. These local work boats are always interesting. The planking is really very nicely done. It has great lines. I look forward to more progress. Russ
  3. Bob: Thanks. In these work boats, they used what they had. The cleats were just really just boards nailed onto the stanchions. In that photo I posted, you can see another thing they did. There is a piece of iron bar through another stanchion up forward, almost like a belaying pin , but it is horizontal rather than vertical. Russ
  4. Mark: Thanks. I am really happy with the cleats. Those fastenings will make sure they do not go flying down the road. Russ
  5. Michael: The work looks so good, it is almost as if you are not building a model at all. It looks just like a real boat's gear. I am just floored by the level of detail you are able to get. Russ
  6. John: Thanks for the kind words. I have been VERY fortunate in my research on these schooners to have access to local contemporary photos. That is where I get so much good information. Russ
  7. Michael: Thanks. I feel so much better when I get into the shop and make some progress. It really calms me and helps me focus. Russ
  8. Jay: Yes, it is a really good feeling to be able to get in there and just make something. I blew an hour and hardly noticed it. I am a research hound so it is easy for me to get lost in research, but I am always glad to be able to apply what I find to my models. Russ
  9. I got in an entire hour in the shop. I made and installed the cleats on the bulwarks. Here is a photo of what they actually looked like on a schooner. This is a small part of a larger photo, but I am pretty sure this is the deck of the Julia Delacruz, built in 1924. Questions and comments welcomed. Russ
  10. Tim: In any event, the woodwork underneath is very good for the primer to look that smooth. That is a nice job. Russ
  11. Sherry: Your model looks great. I think that marking and cutting the gunports first would be a good idea. Then you can plank around them with your second layer of planking and not risk damaging the second layer later on by cutting into it. I have not had to do this sort of operation before, but it makes sense inside my head, if nothing else. Russ
  12. Bob: That coppering looks very good. I think coppering the rudder now is a really good idea. Nice work all around. Russ
  13. David: Thanks. With a little luck, I might be able to show some work on the cleats later this evening. Fingers crossed. Russ
  14. Adam: Thanks. I wish I had the talent many of these modelers here have. Maybe one day. Russ
  15. Mark: So far the planking looks good. I found that planking is all about measuring, double checking, thinking about it a bit, measuring again, double checking once more, and then some more thinking. Seriously, it just takes some time and care. Russ
  16. Mark: Thanks. It is not a complete disaster just yet. Those stanchions will hold the cleats to which some of the rigging will be belayed. But there is still the hatches, bitts, deckhouse, wheel box, pumps, and windlass to be added. All that after the deck planking. The deck planking must wait for the cleats, another hawse hole to port, caprail, lower deadeyes and chainplates, rubrail, and some paint on the hull and margin plank. Russ
  17. If you mean the eyebolts that came with the kit, they might work. They are not ringbolts because they do not have the ring interlocking in the eyeb of the bolt, but they would do, especially on the gundeck where they will not be seen much. Russ
  18. The cordage of the day would have been hemp. I think tan with a bit of grey would be about right. Nothing too dark. Russ
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