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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. I have never heard of a rammer's line. The line that was seized to the ring bolts on the bulwarks and then around the end of the gun barrel and back to the bulwarks on the other side of the gun was called the breeching rope, or just breeching. It would limit the gun's recoil. Russ
  2. Robbyn: Check out Chuck's build log and look at his photos of that area. That might give you some guidance. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/629-18th-century-english-longboat-by-chuck-c1760/ Your planking is looking very good. Nice work. Russ
  3. Rusty: They look very good. My only advice here is to make sure they are set perpendicular to the baseline when you finally install them. Right now, they look like they are leaning outboard a bit. Russ
  4. Bob: The treenails look great. Very nice work. When I do this, I generally, insert the treenail into the hole with some glue on it and then break it off and go to the next hole. However, I have also used end nippers and they seem to do a good job. Russ
  5. Kevin: The sides overlap the stern so that the end grain of the stern is covered by the side planks. Is that what you are needing to know? Russ
  6. The cap squares look pretty good. You can always glue them on if you are worried about them coming off. Russ
  7. That looks pretty good. Those pieces out of which you made the eyebolts are backing plates for the lower ends of the chainplates where they attach to the hull. Another small detail to consider adding is the capsquare on each side of the carriage. These are the metal plates that hold the trunnion in place. You can use strips of masking tape painted black, or maybe even black pinstriping tape. Russ
  8. That curve on the taffrail might be an inch or two, but not much more. It is all but horiztonal. I see what you mean though about the aesthetics. A slight curve in the taffrail is a nice touch. Russ
  9. Okay, I reckon that might be considered odd. I would need to see how it appeared on the original plan. If it was like that on the original plan, then I would prefer to see it that way on the model. Russ
  10. Janos: He is referring to the caprails at the top of the bulwarks. That is in the thread's title. Russ
  11. Very nice work on the galleries. The green is a good color against the gold. Russ
  12. I am sorry Janos, but the rails should be horizontal. I have never seen a plan where the rails match the camber of the deck. See this cross section of an American merchant ship from the mid 19th century. Note the rails do not match the camber of the deck. Russ
  13. Grant: Your bracket is very close to the one we used in the plans. Ours was patterned after those found on a model in NMM. Very nice work. Russ
  14. Your gundeck looks good. I cannot see the seams in the photos and they are usually quite prominent. I think you did just fine. Russ
  15. The best information I have is for British guns for the early 19th century. The Naval Pocket Gunner of 1814 says the breechings for 24s were 6 1/2", for 18s 5 1/2", and 9s were 4 1/2". This is circumference. Russ
  16. Paddy: On drawing treenails, I always hold the plate in my hand and draw with the other hand. I use a hobby knife to split my bamboo, but I do not worry much about if it is perfectly square in section. I usually draw about a 6-7 inch length at a time. Always go through each hole more times than you think you should. On the last several pulls through a given hole, there should be very little resistance. I angle the dowel through the hole on the last several passes to try and take off a little more before moving on to the next hole. That makes drawing through the next hole a bit easier. Russ
  17. Grant: The guns looks very good. I like the eye splice around the cascabel. Very neatly done. I also pin my gun trucks in position, although I use bamboo pegs. Same idea though. Good job. Russ
  18. Adam: This model has a nice looking hull form. I think it will make a fine display once it is completed. Those bow "fillers" are really just there to give a landing for the bow planks. If I were doing this, I would fit some extra balsa or basswood fillers in between the first few bulkheads and the last few bulkheads. This will make planking a little easier because the lower planks ends will have some place to land in between the bulkheads. Have fun with it. Russ
  19. The new deck looks great. It has a slightly worn look to it that is just right. Nice work. Russ
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