russ
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Everything posted by russ
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So long as the model is secure I think it will work. I would worry about the model getting knocked around though. Congratulations on your completed model. It is very good work. Russ
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The breechings and the guns look very good. I agree that the seizing looks great. Nice details. Russ
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14' Banks dory by martinmack - 1/12 scale
russ replied to martinmack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
The dories looks very good. I like how you are building them. I hope your nephew really enjoys the process. Very good work. Russ -
The anchors look pretty good. The color of the metal and the stocks looks good. Nice work there. Russ
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Bob: I have seen the halyard seized around the gaff and stop cleats used to keep it from running back along the gaff. Russ
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Bob: That is the gaff halyard to which you refer. As for the shackle, I have not seen a shackle used like that, nor am I aware of any knot with that name. I would think there would be stop cleats on the gaff to hold that seized halyard line in place. Russ
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Rusty: Very nice work. I like the color scheme. Russ
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Those fillers look good. Everything looks very ship shape so far. Russ
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Adam: If I were to use planking battens (I do not), I would go for some square stock, say about 1/16". Those planks you are using look awfully wide for this sort of thing. You want to have maybe 4-6 strakes of planking in each belt. For instance, if you want to have 20 strakes of planking per side, you would want 5 belts. The belts will contract as you approach the bow and may widen out a bit as you approach the stern. It is easier to see this with the square battens rather than the wider planks. You need to decide what will be the median width of the planks in the midsection. Then measure that bulkhead to see how much distance you have to cover. I like to use some masking tape to make that measurement. Take the distance and divide it by the median plank width and that is how many planks you want crossing each bulkhead. Then divide the number planks into equal sections to get your planking belts. I am not sure how much you want to hear about planking since everyone tends to have their own method with which they are comfortable. I do a lot of spiling and tapering in my planking, but that is not everyone's cup of tea. Russ
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Very nice work with the stanchions and railing. Good job. Russ
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Adam: One of the great things about working with wood like this is it is rather forgiving in such instances. I am sure the repair will work out fine. Nice job on the head rails so far. Russ
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I would mount the fillers in the way of the wales. That way they are hidden under the wales. Russ
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Bob: The treenailing looks good. Nice work. Russ
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The framing looks good. The fillers will be a good addition. I used fillers on my cross section model and it created a really solid structure. Russ
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Brian: The National Maritime Museum at Greenwich has a number of late 18th century framing plans that show how this framing was actually done. That is a great collection of primary sources. Among secondary sources, two that I would recommend are Peter Goodwin's Construction and Fitting and David Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model. I do not have them at my elbow this second so I do not have the complete titles. I am sure others might have some titles, but this is really not for this build log. This JPett's story, not ours. Russ
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Brian: The drawing to which you refer appears to be a kit model plan. I do not know who drew it, what they used for sources etc. In my research, I have seen it done with everything squared up. What you have seen on other models is not necessarily anything to do with how it was actually done. If the builder used the kit plans, that probably does not tell you much of anything about how the ports were actually built. I would suggest that if you want to do it as shown in the kit plans, go ahead. However, there is not nearly as much sheer in the deck as there is in the actual sheer line of the hull. That is very common. I would say that the ports where you notice the difference more is probably where the sheer of the deck tends to be greatest, ie the ends of the hull. The ports where the deck has little sheer are in the middle of the hull and those do not have lids where the ports in the ends of the hull generally do. That is probably why you see sills of unlidded ports appearing to follow the sheer of the deck. Good luck with your build. Russ
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JPett: Yes, the gunports are square to the bulkheads and you can measure the height from the deck at the side. The sills should be perpendicular to the bulkheads. Brian: In fact, all the sills are perpendicular to the bulkheads. To what plan drawing do you refer? Russ
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Janet: Thanks for looking in. I hope to get some more done on this model once I get finals graded and the grades posted. My planking method follows how ships were planked, adapted, of course, for scale modeling. I find it easiest to plank in this method, but everyone has their own preferences. Russ
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The gunport sills should really be measured off the level of the deck at the side. They need to be square to the frames and are not angled or anything to follow the line of the deck. If you can do this while measuring off the profile former, then okay, but I would try to measure off the line of the deck at the side. That is going to be more accurate. Russ
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Martin: That sounds like you are rigging a pair with one to starboard and one to port. That is why I mentioned it. The first gang or pair go to starboard, then second gang goes to port and so forth. Russ
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I also hand sew sails for my models. Yours look very good. Nice work. Russ
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Sam: The hinges look pretty good to my eye. Even on the real ship they would not be perfect. They look kind of weathered to me. That is a good look. Russ
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I would seal the tape with a clear coat. Actually, paper glued to the wood is my preference if it comes to that. I use Elmer's white glue and it works well. Russ
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Sam: If the .005 brass strip looks too thick, go with painted masking tape or paper. The eyebolt and ring look good. I use a prefluxed soldering paste that had worked well for me over the years. I just get a small bit of on a toothpick and apply it to the joint. It takes a bit of practice to get good at soldering. Keep at it. It is looking good. Russ
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Martin: I meant with the forwardmost shrouds on that mast. On each mast, they should be put on in pairs, starboard side forwardmost pair of shrouds goes first, then the pair to port, and so forth. Russ
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