russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Martin: Just to be certain, you are beginning with the forwardmost shrouds on the starboard side, right? Russ
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Ron: You can measure the length of the sheave slots on the plan and then take off a couple of scale inches for the rope to fit. That diameter should be good enough. Since this model is not rigged, that will be close enough. Russ
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Kirk: Welcome aboard. This is not as bad as you think. Yes, you have some problems, but they are fixable. On the crack in the deck, I would recommend hitting with another treatment of wood filler and then sand it out smooth. Paint the deck. A little crease there is actually not that big a deal. Call it some of the boat's "character" and move on. On the coaming, I would try and fit a strip of wood in that gap and then fill as needed. Paint it afterwards. On the area at the stern, add a strip of wood, then fill and paint. I would also urge you to begin a build log where you can post your build pics and get some answers, advice, and encouragement. That is really the best thing you can do. That is one of the primary reasons why MSW exists. Good luck and have fun. Russ
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I would use method 1 as well. A lot will depend on the builder's preference. As for the type of material for the sheaves, that is the builder's choice. I have made sheaves out of brass and wood. So long as you use a hard wood like boxwood or something similar, there should be no problem making them like that. Russ
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Bob: The gun deck looks very good. Nice work on the framing. Russ
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The companionways might be a bit large, especially in their width. Overall, this will make a nice looking model. You are doing good work. I think the figures will add some life to the completed model. Russ
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Rusty: The breechings for a 9 pounder at this scale should be about .029" so your choice of .028" was really just about right. Good going. Russ
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Rusty: The guns looks very good. I have only one concern. Did you double check the diameter of the breechings? It might be my imagination but they look a little large to me. It might be just the photo or something, but it might be worth checking. The colors are great. I like the subdued tone of the red. Russ
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That is an impressive set up for framing. You should be on your way now for sure. Russ
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Tom: Welcome aboard. It would help if you can post a few photos of the model so that some of the more knowledgeable fiberglass modelers can see what you are up against. Russ
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The rigging looks pretty good. The shrouds are not that thick. I think they will work. I have made my share of sails for schooner models. One thing I would encourage you to consider is to keep the shape of sail so that it can be properly peaked up. Too often, I have seen sails for this model where the gaff is at too shallow an angle. It just does not look right. Giving the sails a bit more angle along the upper edges will pribably make for a better looking sail. Russ
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Thomas: The paint work looks very good. I like the colors. Russ
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I use a small razor saw. It looks just like the number 11 blade but it has saw teeth on it. They come from Micromark and are very thin. They come in two different numbers of teeth. These blades fit the standard handle just like the number 11 blades. http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=saw+blades Russ
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That is a common mistake. No worries. Just make sure you have the frame seating marked out on the keel itself. Keep a nice sharp pencil and you will be able to mark them where they need to go. Russ
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You could even use a clear coat to seal the tape. Russ
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The waterline looks good now. I have used polycrylic and it works well. Just let the paint harden really well. Do not be in a hurry to clear coat it. Give it a few days. Russ
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Spar attachment to mast- boats, early 1800's
russ replied to PopJack's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have never seen that arrangement before. The gaff and boom would have wooden jaws on each side of the spar and the ends of the jaws connected with parrels. Chances are that the gaffs would remain aloft and the sail would be furled back to the mast using brail lines. This is instead of the halyards being used to lower the gaff. Certainly this would be the case with the schooner foresail which is completely loose footed, meaning with out a boom. The schooner mainsail was often rigged this way until well into the 19th century. Russ -
Spar attachment to mast- boats, early 1800's
russ replied to PopJack's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I am not familar with the metal strap that you reference. Can we see a scan of the plan to see what you are dealing with? I would think that parrels would be the preferred method for securing the spars the mast. Russ -
Paddy: So long as your spacing is working out okay, everything looks good so far. Russ
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Don: Contact Model Expo and ask them to supply the correct sizes. Russ
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The moderators will just move this thread into the kit build log forum. That will take care of it. Russ
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Bob: Nice color contrast on the bulwarks. It looks very good. Russ
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The planking looks good so far. Just a few bottom planks and that area will be finished. You have some sanding to do but that will probably serve to even out whatever bumps you have in the hull. Very good work so far. Russ
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You should start a build log for this model rather than posting them in the kit discussion forum. I am sure a lot of members would like to follow along. Russ
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You can download it from Model Expo's website. Go to their website and choose Model Shipways kits in the lefthand side of the screen. Now choose solid hull kits. Next choose the Sultana. Click on documents when you get to the Sultana kit. The practicum is in several parts, but you can download each part to your hard drive and then print it out as needed. Russ
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