russ
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Everything posted by russ
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It all looks good. I like the cradles and the display base. Very nice creative touch. Russ
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Mario: Very nice work. I had not seen this one before. Thanks for posting it. Russ
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Craig: Your framing looks excellent. Very nice work. On the deck beams, they have to fit according to the deck layout rather than the hull framing plan. There needs to be a complete beam at either end of hatches and deck houses. To accomplish this, beams are fitted where they need to be and they rest on and are fastened to the beam shelf or deck clamp. Because their location depends on the deck plan and not the framing plan of the hull, some beams will butt against a frame while most will probably not. Russ
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Adam: The most important thing is that you be satisfied with your work. So long as you are satisfied, all is well. Russ
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She was built in East Boston in 1868, designed by Dennison J. Lawler. That is on the kit's box. This jives with what has been written about her by Chapelle and others over the years. Lawler was both a designer and builder and he was based in Boston. As for photos, I am not sure how many there would be given the early time period. However, the plans should be fairly accurate. Russ
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John: Great work. The ratlines look very neat. The sag is very good as well. Russ
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Nice work on the sanding and shaping. The edges of the chart house seem to match the camber very well. Russ
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That red color is right on the mark. Very nice look. It looks great without the pinstripe. I would go with it as is. It looks really good. Russ
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Bob: The planking looks great. I like the seams. They are just about right to my eye, not overdone. That is a great effect. As for treenailing, why not do a few strakes every few days, in between other work on the model? You will be done before you know it. Russ
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The shrouds and ratlines look great. Very clean looking work. Russ
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The card stock looks good. I have used poster board in a few of my builds and had some good results. Very nice work on yours. Russ
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That is a good idea. I have been using this type of clothes pin for about 40 years. I have seen many different ways to modify them for various circumstances. They will always find a place in my tool kit. Russ
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I am not sure how that plan was derived. Actually, there should probably be 3-4 strakes of wales, but that is beside the point about how much taper they had. At this point, it really does not matter since the hull is planked and it looks good. I see no reason to alter your painting scheme though. Paint the wales black if that is the color you want to use and be done with it. That is the best you can do and it will look just fine. Russ
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Aldo: If that works, then so be it. The original intent of this project was to have a simplified form of construction. What worked at the stern should, in theory, work at the stem. However, the more we try to overthink this, the more confusing it might get. I do not know how much more simple we could try to make this though. Until I know what is confusing him, I really do not know what to suggest. As for comparing this to the Swan class project, it is really apples and oranges. To do that kind of framing is really getting away from what the Triton project was supposed to be all about. We never intended to go into that sort of detail. However, if folks want to do that, I reckon they can try it, but it will be difficult using the Triton plans as they are drawn. Russ
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Guy: That entire area is structural so I am guessing it would need to be thick like the stem. Past that, I am not sure what confuses you. If you make the entire piece the same thickness then I am not sure why you are asking where to stop. Can you be more specific about what is confusing you? Russ
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J.Pett: I really think that so much tapering on the wales is not necessary. I think that the wales should be left full width as much as possible.. Their upper edge should be spiled to follow the sheer line, but the bottom edge just should not have that much tapering. Try to think of the wales as a stand alone area that is not so much a part of the rest of the planking layout. They serve a special purpose and tapering them is really not part of that purpose. Lay them first, then line off the hull for the rest of the planking. The wales spiled edge will usually follow the sheer line of the vessel in question,. Russ
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The Bluejacket oarlocks to which you refer are rather large for his scale. Russ
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I do not know that I would have tapered the wales much at all. But, whatever the taper, it would be minimal and so your idea is a good one. However, I would also have painted the wales before the rest of the planking was laid. Russ
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J.Pett: Now you can see why many of us like to set the wales first and then plank off of that. Russ
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The A frame looks very good. I like the pumps as well. I agree that the paint looks better than leaving them plain. Nice job. Russ
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I silver solder my oar locks. I use some brass wire for the post and brass strip to make the round part. Russ
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I would think it is the same thickness for this model. In real life, perhaps not, but for the purposes of this simplified construction, yes. Russ
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Thomas: Thanks for looking and for the kind words. I am really hoping to get more time to work on it. Too many chores these days. I am happy to say that this model was a good conversation piece when I was at the wooden boat show this past weekend. Russ
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Sam: No problem on the catheads. For blackening, use a file to rough up the surface of the brass. That will help. I usually paint the Blackening right on to the piece, then dunk it in some water after a minute or so, blot it dry, then go again. I do this until I get the depth of color I want. It takes some time, but the outcome is good. Russ
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Tim: I have not built any of their kits, but Bluejacket is a really good company. I have bought supplies from them on many ocassions and they are really good people and fun to do business with. Please post a log on the half hull. Russ
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