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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. Martin: B.E. Is correct about the iron horse. This would be used for a sheet block most likely. The block is shackled to the iron horse and this allows the block to travel along the horizontal length of the horse. As for several other lines, I do not know what lines they are talking about. Russ
  2. This will differ depending on time period and what kind of ship. Russ
  3. Welcome aboard. It looks like you have some good wood working skills already, but do not count out the Midwest Products kits if you feel the need to do something relatively simple for your first kit. They have good plans. They are larger scale models of smaller boats. These are usually good learning experiences. Now, with all that said, the Phantom or Sultana are good solid hull kits, especially with the expanded practica (written by our own Chuck Passaro) that you can get for them for free. Whatever you choose, good luck with it. A good idea would be to begin a build log here at MSW. That is a good way to share you work, while at the same time getting feedback, advice, and encouragement. Russ
  4. Adam: The rub rail and the cutwater look just fine,. The plans show you how the cutwter would have been made. It is not absolutely necessary to do it that way, but it looks better, even under a coat of paint. You will be able to see the joints, if only slightly. I think that will add a nice touch to the overall appearance. Russ
  5. Adam: I think the stern windows look good. The fit is good and the pattern looks excellent. Very nice job there. Russ
  6. Adam: I think the extra filler blocks will be a good idea. Where the rabbet begins to move upward at the bow, you will need something for the end of the garboard strake to land on. Same thing where the ends of the planks land at the transom. That should work very well. Russ
  7. The door and new window look great. That is the best one yet. I think it is a winner. Good work. Russ
  8. The Rattlesnake did not have a quarter badge, I am fairly certain. I do not recall seeing it on the original drawings. On a ship this size it was not uncommon to have a badge, but I do not think she had them. Russ
  9. Are they included in the rigging plans? You might want to shoot Chuck a PM and ask him. He would know for sure. Russ
  10. The gunports follow the deck line. The deck line does not necessarily follow the wales or the sheer line. Russ
  11. Did you call Model Expo and speak with them about the blocks? I am sure they could have supplied you with whatever you needed. Russ
  12. Howard Chapelle's Boatbuilding has a chapter devoted to the process of lofting a boat through each phase of developing the lines. It has drawings that take you through each part of the lofting process. Russ
  13. One reason for the lack of responses is that this kit is long gone and really obscure. It may be that no one who has had time to look at your request is familar with the kit. That said, another reason for the lack of responses to date is that you are asking a question that requires a HUGE amount of research to get the answer. It may be that those of us with access to the research material simply have not had the time so far to put together the information you want. To get the size of every block and deadeye needed will take some time, if all of that information can be found at all. My advice would be to get a good book on rigging clipper ships, like Harold Underhill's Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier. It is dated, but it pretty much the bible for rigging clipper ships. Even so, it will not answer every question about block and deadeye sizes. There are plans for the Cutty Sark that sold by the Cutty Sark trust over in Great Britain. Those plans are, I hear, very detailed. I am not sure of the current prices or address, but I am betting a internet search will bring up the site where you can order the plans. That might be a good source for you. Good luck with your project. Russ
  14. On the paint issue, could you paint the wales black, then put on a clear coat, and then add the upper planking? Then when you put your clear treatment on the upper planking, the black on the wales is already under a clear coat. Russ
  15. The steps look great. You did a wonderful job making and installing them. The stop clipped to the hull is a good idea. Russ
  16. Go the forums page, scroll down the list of forums and you will find a group build of this kit in the online projects forum. Check the build logs there for some information. You can also ask Chuck, who designed the kit, for some advice as well. Russ
  17. Bob: The framing and pillars look good. Everything looks very clean and sharp. When I built my cross section (ten years ago now), I hand turned my pillars on the end of a stick of wood, using files, sandpaper etc. It takes a bit longer, I suppose, but it was a lot of fun for me to do it by hand. I also made my knees out of cuttings from my maple tree. That was interesting and it gave a great amount of satisfaction to make knees like that. Been even better if I had fitting them properly. Russ
  18. Eddie: Good work so far. If you had not told anyone about the keel repair, we would not have known. Your repair is very good indeed. This will make a really nice looking model when it is finished. Russ
  19. Garth: Your rigging looks pretty good. It is better than you think. Trust me. The main thing here is that you be happy with it. Frustration is something that we all get every once in a while. My last bout was yesterday evening. Russ
  20. The breeching looks very good. One suggestion would be to make sure to clip the excess line on the seizing at the ship's side. You do not want any excess rope hanging off there. Other than that it is fine. Good work. Russ
  21. The rigging looks great. Good attention to detail. Very nice work. Russ
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