NMBROOK
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Awe inspiring work Michael I have to admit,you blew me away when you mentioned the cam drive for the water pump I am used to seeing marine model engines relying on a pickup for the water cooling!!! Kind Regards Nigel -
Excellent work Dimitris!!!!!! Kind Regards Nigel
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The figurehead finishes the stem off beautifully Bob Wonderful carving Janos!! Kind Regards Nigel
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Excellent work Jeurgen Not the easiest of planks to clamp in position Kind Regards Nigel
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I am building mine inline with Van de velde's work and the builders model.The gunport quantity position was already been addressed when I cut them.The stern balcony arrangement will be added when I add the stern framing.I never intended to build as Euromodel intended from the start.The actual hull shape is correct OOTB,the stern involves lengthening the hull sides by around 15mm above the counter.Tweaks have also been made to the sheer of the top edge of the hull.The hull around the beakhead is also correct,it is how this area is enclosed by the 'three step' arrangement each side that changes things.If your search 'Mordaunt 1681' on the NMM website,you will see all the pics which explain things clearer.The area under the foredeck is also enclosed,a curved bulkhead featuring belfry is missing from the Euromodel kit. The bigger question is,which way are you going to build yours Crackers? Kind Regards Nigel P.S. I hope you start a log,kinda lonely being the Mordaunt builder on here
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Excellent question Crackers!!After studying the pics of the builders model on the NMM website,of which there are many,the following need addressing if you want a historically accurate model.The upper gunports are one too few and the spacing needs adjusting.The beakhead area and stern are completely wrong.Both of these areas are actually very complex and are described in John Franklin's Navy board models.The stern balcony is actually grated with the carvings acting as supporting'gussets'.This allows water to drain through.According to John Franklin.this is the only ship he was aware of with this arrangement.The beakhead also has a raised grated deck.I feel that to incorporate these details,Euromodels would have to have increased the price by a large amount.If Mordaunt cost more than Royal William,no one would buy the kit.So yes Van de Velde's pic is accurate. Kind Regards Nigel
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She looks wonderful Vic It is almost a shame to apply any colour,instead leaving everything Pear i.e.Belgian style.I agree with George,modesty is a good quality,but I think you are being far to hard on yourself.I would question anyone that claims they never make mistakes and some tasks take a number of attempts to get right. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Jason Yes,I dare say if you were just after dulling the plates and perhaps darkening a few it would work on copper plates.If you want something a little more extreme,the same company do a verdigris product.I should imagine you can regulate the effect by the strength of the solution.Here is the link; http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/ Kind Regards Nigel
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Paint brush verses air brush
NMBROOK replied to medic's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards. Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended. As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us. Kind Regards Nigel -
It makes a lot of sense to me Pete.The top would be the ideal vantage point to place archers. Kind Regards NIgel
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I agree RCGroups is a good forum,however if you want a book to give you some pointers,I bought this many years ago and it is pretty good. http://www.abebooks.co.uk/Tug-Boat-Book-Building-Large-Scale/9058828359/bd Kind Regards Nigel
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I have had a thoroughly enjoyable time and a right laugh reading through your log Captain Steve I knew I had to come and check it out when I saw you nuts in the other thread Some great original thinking that makes your model packed with detail.I am surprised that your LOS is the same make as mine,I would have thought someone may have produced it in Oz,rather than importing from the UK.Did you find it worked ok on brass?,The manufacturer does actually list a different product for brass. As a sidenote,the welding technical coordinator of my former employer happened to be one of the worlds leading authorities on ancient Japanese swordmaking and metalurgy.He very rarely came into the workshop,I would have loved to have a chat with him as I find it fascinating. Kind Regards Nigel
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More excellent work Michael May I make a suggestion.I don't know whether your tooling would allow it,but if the rotary table was mounted perpendicular to the mill table,could you mill the camshaft lobes using an end mill utilise a combination of vertical readout and rotary readout?I know you would have to do the opening and closing phases of the camshaft separately with the cutter set to opposing sides of the centreline to avoid 'digging in' in the ramp sections.Then again I may be overthinking the process . I notice your liners are slightly shy of the block deck.Do you propose to use wills rings as your head gaskets? Kind Regards Nigel.
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Which compressor?
NMBROOK replied to NMBROOK's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Brian I agree a tank is a must.The larger nozzle size you run,the quicker the tank empties.Ideally this wants to happen after you have completed one coat.My UK search points towards a Bambi compressor.The hot favourite features 24litre tank( I had 50litres on the old one) but above all else 40db.This is lower than any of the Iwata range.Their prices are comparable with the silentaire models,but no import duty and VAT to add to the price. http://aircompressors.co.uk/Product/0000000079/BB24# Kind Regards Nigel -
Which compressor?
NMBROOK replied to NMBROOK's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Unfortunately it appears Silentaire doesn't have a UK distributor They are available in 220 volt though.The biggest issue is the shipping and hammering with customs charges (32.5%) will push the price up considerably Kind Regards Nigel -
Which compressor?
NMBROOK replied to NMBROOK's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Thank you Frank I will check these out.They are obviously 110 volt and I need 240 volt.I haven't come across this brand in the UK so far in my searches.They are made in Italy,so you would assume they are available in the UK.I agree you do get what you pay for,I would have to wait a little before spending a few hundred pounds on a machine,I just want to be certain that they are capable of what I want. Kind Regards Nigel -
Which compressor?
NMBROOK replied to NMBROOK's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Dimitris Thank you for your kind offer.The only thing is the noise level.I have seen some diy quiet compressors on youtube.The only thing is the price of the various components.The various things like the pressure switch etc etc would add up to the cost of one of the Ebay cheapies.I looked at rebuilding mine and the price of the bits soon add up to the cost of a new machine. Kind Regards Nigel -
My trusty industrial size compressor has finally thrown a wobbler after 14 years service.I originally bought this as I used to do lots of work on cars.I have long given up working on cars now and am looking for something dedicated for modelling.I have seen all the 'cheapies' on Ebay and also the more expensive offerings from Iwata etc.I am wanting something that offers enough air delivery for larger size nozzles as it will be used for spraying polyurethane on larger areas as well as smaller sizes for spraying armour models(something I am keen to get back into). Replacement with a similar compressor would be the easiest option,BUT I want something I can use in the house,you could hear my previous compressor fire up down the road!! So I am unsure at the moment,is there any great advantage going for an expensive unit,many of the cheapies are rated at 55db the same as an Iwata costing 6 times more. Thanks in advance for any pointers offered Nigel
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Congratulations on the completion of a magnificent model mate It has been a joy to follow along and I look forward to seeing her in the case.I think your method of displaying the masts is a great idea and one worth considering as an alternative to stub masts if you don't wish to contend with displaying a model of full height. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Dimitris Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Michael for your kind words Kind Regards Nigel
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Excellent work Michael The dummy carriage sections make a big difference. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Steve The LOS I bought is a longlife gel.I reckon on a couple of blobs about 5mm diameter,really too small to measure as the gel is almost like treacle.Yes coke cans are the same size over here,but it was probably two thirds full as I had cut the top off (they make handy disposable containers,wife wouldn't have been happy if her pyrex stank like rotten eggs ).I recomend the gradually adding to the mix approach as copper compositions vary and you really are just wanting the very start of the process.When it starts to go red then you know it is going too far. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Patrick for your kind words A few pointers if you or anyone fancy having a go Seal the deck first,I used several coats of poly,pear is very absorbant.The thick cyano I use may have marked the deck otherwise. Ensure you get a little 'bead' of cyano around the fixing.This stops the fixing being dragged out or deformed by the sanding process. Use a sanding block to flat the copper down after trimming (nail clippers are good, although I have found some small end cutters now that get quite close) I started with a 'coke can' quantity of warm water and added the tinniest drop of LOS.If no affect after several minutes,add a tiny bit more LOS.This was how I achieved the mild patina without turning the copper black.It really is tiny quantities of LOS,a tiny bit too much and the copper will start to blacken. Happy New Year Nigel
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Thank you very much Grant Yes I to am a copper convert.It is so much easier to work with and you can always stretch it for a work hardened stronger fixing when the need arises. Happy New Year Nigel
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