NMBROOK
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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Lovely crisp,clean work on the rigging Bob Happy New Year Nigel -
Your aggie is looking great Sjors Good luck with my least favourite part of modelmaking,cannons and rigging,ERRR Happy New year to you and Anja Nigel
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Wonderful work as always Doris I wish you well with your new job and for 2015 Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
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Thank you Doris for your kind words Unfortunately,like yourself,a new job has reduced my time for modelling . Happy New Year Best wishes Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed mate There is a bit of a debate in Richard Ensor's restoration warship covering Lennox as to the use of iron spikes v treenails on the deck.This ship is same period,same yard so I have adopted a little artistic licence.To be correct they should be blackened but I felt that would create an OTT look and they would dominate the deck,detracting from the timber.As you know yourself,exact historical representation does not necessarily convey the same impression when scaled down,a balance needs to be struck IMHO,just like in plastic modelling. Happy New Year buddy Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Steve I know Ed Tosti mentioned it doesn't mark the timber,but I was still fraught with trepidation not only that,but the LOS is neuturalised by a wash of dilute Bicarbonate of soda.Neither affected the timber,however the water raised the grain which gets 'knocked' back when flatting the varnish.Obviously sanding the deck after treatment would remove the patina. Kind Regards Nigel
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Mary Rose 1545 by tarbrush - Scale 1:72
NMBROOK replied to tarbrush's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Great to see you back in the shipyard John.You could detail the model in sections but I would be tempted to build the frame as one in the jig,then split,then rejoin to fit the external planking.I have only seen a handful of models that are split and join back together.Most notable is Arthur Molle's Sovereign http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/royal_souverain/R_Souverain01.htm I have also seen footage of a model of Le Fleuron split at the waterline and the top raised up on two electric rams!!!! I have a feeling this was on a video of one of the Japanese 'Rope' exhibitions. Happy New Year Nigel -
I fulling understand Mark and it wouldn't be the done thing to promote pirated Vids in here Happy New Year Nigel
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I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third. Happy New Year everyone Nigel
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Hi Dimitris and Happy New Year You're build is coming on fantastically.This beautiful vessel is a foreboding build in 1/84 let alone 1/100.I agree that fibreglass is the way to go for a permanent crack free hull.Cracks can appear years after construction otherwise. Just a couple of bits of advise from my experience using this.I always use ZAP Epoxy finishing resin and fine woven cloth meant for RC aeroplanes This resin has a 3 hour set time,that isn't 'open' work time.However this is the only product I have found that gives you a 'comfortable' amount of time to complete the job.Cutting all the pieces of cloth before you start is a must to give yourself as much time as possible.Finally,you need to apply finish to your decks,the resin will bead on the deck at the upper edges of the hull.This will need sanding off when cured,the finish on the deck will stop a darker edge appearing on the planking when finished. Kind Regards Nigel
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Andy raises some good points,I use original marquetry,twigfolly and workshopheaven fairly regularly.I try to keep orders for original marquetry spread out so I can place a large order as their postage is a standard £15 charge.One item that is very useful from Original marquetry is the boxwood strings,great for window frames and small details.Even if you had wood milling facilities,producing 0.8mm square sections would be interesting Happy New Year Nigel
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No Mark,most of this is original footage filmed by the Australian crew that was never used in the DVD.These have been posted by Modelsworld.ru,Russia's modeling forum.There are literally hundreds of other tutorial videos covering plastic modelling,armour etc. Happy New Year Nigel
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I have had a wonderful time reading through your log Michael Your engine build is a wonderful piece of model engineering and totaling enthralling to read about it's construction.I wish I could revisit my college days with the plethora of machine tools available,knowing what I know now,I would have built a steam engine as my course project . I look forward following it to it's completion and imagine you will be doing a vid of it's first test run Happy New Year Nigel
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This method is widely adopted by many of the Russian/Ukrainian master builders primarily to keep costs down due to the expense of more exotic timber.Artesenia latina are introducing this method as well,but mainly for partworks they produce under license for other companies. So the answer is YES,it does work.The only thing I will say is whatever you plank over needs to be perfect,you have no allowance for correcting discrepancies with further sanding. Kind Regards Nigel
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I agree Mark,it struck me immediately looking at your last pic.I didn't mention it as I know you are aware of the issues with this particular kit,at least if you are after more historically correct appearance.I wish you the best of luck at achieving a compromise,to try and make everything tie into the original would have meant reprofiling several bulkheads. Kind Regards Nigel
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Tony you are a superstar!!!!!. Five down seventy two to go Kind Regards Nigel
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Excellent work Mark Happy New Year Nigel
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Thanks for the link Vanholdinghausen I had only come across the armour ones previously.Ninety percent of this stuff isn't on the DVD!!!This must have been footage that was cut out/never used. Watched two already,it is addictive,that is my building time reduced for the next month or so Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Grant Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi David I have been giving this some thought and you are limited as to options other than the white bottom.If you stain,the hull would have to be very dark to cope with the dark sections of walnut.Rubbing right down and covering with another layer is feasible using veneer,boxwood strips available in a variety of widths that are only 0.6mm thick from Originalmarquetry.com.The coloured varnish is an option,if you can't get matt,apply two or three coats.When fully hard abrade with steel wool and then apply a matt clear varnish over the top. Sorry I can't offer an easy fix. Kind Regards Nigel
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Gosh,many thanks everyone I will post some pics when sanded and a coat of varnish has been applied.It will give a better indication of the finished process. The 'treenails' are from soft copper wire Keith.The product I use is designed for electronics and armature winding.I have used brass in the past,but it is a VERY hard slog sanding it flush.I know Alex Banarov uses brass,but he snips the brass off proud and then dresses it flush using a hammer.His models are typically twice the size of mine,I don't fancy hammer wielding on a model of this size.Not only that,but I feel the copper provides a very subtle contrast to the pear,it only really stands out when the light catches it at a certain angle.It will provide a stark contrast against the Ebony sections,but that is the appearance I am after. Kind Regards Nigel
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Great work Patrick The only thing that springs to mind,is that you need to check that the face of the stern is going appear the correct shape as what you are representing.I found out with Sovereign,you correct the stern in side profile,but then the upper hull does not run fair into the transom.I had to ease the sides of the model to get everything running fair.A simple card mockup of the stern face clamped in position should allow you to check things are running true using a batten on the sides of the upper bulkheads. Kind Regards Nigel
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Well ok,maybe not literally at the same time John but I am ambidextrous Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Alistair You're post made me chuckle,I am wrestling tiny eyebolts into gun carriages little bigger than my thumbnail as I write this I think that is case in point Kind Regards Nigel
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