NMBROOK
-
Posts
2,305 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by NMBROOK
-
That wasn't so bad after all mate :rolleyes:Please don't take this as criticism,more a suggestion.The two triangular voids at either side of the transom,inbetween the uprights and the bulwarks,to me,look a little strange.Personally I would be tempted to fill these with timber triangles.I know you have painted the insides,but doing this will make life an awful lot easier in the long run as the waterway/spirketing will be a nightmare in that little corner..Incidentally,waterway sits in the corner,spirketing is thicker inner hull/bulwark planking running from said waterway up to the lower cill of the gunports Kind Regards Nigel- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
If you find the timber to be splintery or the blade goes where it wants,you can stick some automotive masking tape(you need the stickier stuff than the Tamiya tape)to the to face of what will become the margin plank.This allows the blade to follow the line rather than the woodgrain and also stops the timber from wanting to split when doing the curved sections Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Just a small tip mate,just concentrate on the outside edge where it abuts the bulwark,do this for all the sections incorporating scarf joints if you desire.When you have all the sections in place,label with a pencil and remove.Turn the point the opposite way in a compass and set the gap at your desired width.Then use the compass to scribe the width of your margin planks All you have to do is cut close to the line and finally size with sandpaper.No special tools like oddleg dividers required. Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Congratulations on the completion of a fantastic model Ulises!! Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thanks mate,I do find it beneficial in that it keeps the energy going.Like I have said I needed a short break from Caroline,not just from the fiddly bits but to give myself a little thinking time.Still haven't decided exactly how I am going to do the gun carriages and a couple of other areas,so this pause gives me the opportunity. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Outstanding work on the rigging Jason Slowly slowly catchee monkey is paying off in spades. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thanks mij,I am looking forward to getting stuck in on all cylinders,but she is just providing a short intermission from small fiddly bits on Caroline at the moment. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thank you Mark for the extra reassurance It must just be my wife that regards it as rambling Kind Regards Nigel
-
Those cannons are simply beautiful Nils Excellent work!! Kind Regards Nigel
-
An interesting point regarding the old Amati plans.I have these,albeit more recently printed and have always understood these to be 1/64 scale.I will check,but I am sure no scale is stated on the plans,but neither can I remember where this scale was mentioned The scale isn't even listed in Amati's catalogue.As you say it can be assumed that this is the correct scale,just the fact that the hull is incorrect in many aspects. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thanks Chris and I totally agree,the dockyard model is the ideal point of reference.Did you actually take them off the model yourself?It would be interesting as to know the whereabouts of this model now in light of the science museum closing the display.I do remember the original development of your model and the adverts in the UK mags stating coming soon I guess a lot is dictated to you by Amati and obviously they have the final say as to what they want when.As you will be starting with almost a blank sheet of paper again,do you think there is any mileage in suggesting to Amati to produce this one in 1/48?As mentioned earlier in this thread,the Prince was substantially smaller than Royal William and even at 1/48 I should imagine will still not be as large as your forthcoming Victory. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Mate I use the 6mm to get the line and 18mm to hold any additional paper masking etc in place as this stuff doesn't pull paint off unless there is adhesion problems in the original paint application. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Absolutely outstanding work on the quarterdeck Bob It looks fabulous,I like it a lot,almost a shame to fit any planks at all Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Michael Apologies for not being around much of late and missing your last update.Excellent work on the swivel guns,they look fabulous I too would have suggested wire for the axles,at this scale a representation rather than exact replication is more than adequate.Tip for drilling the holes,drill a hole in a small wooden block for the axle to slide in,then drill a hole through the block to act as a guide for drilling the pin holes.This will make it easy to keep them central and stop the drill from wondering due to the curved surface of the axle Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Eamonn Yes Tamiya tape is a must,only thing that comes as close is signwriters masking tape,although this is a little more tacky and may dislodge some paint on removal.For the ultimate,looks like it has been 'put on with a laser' result,Apply the tape and then one coat along the edge of the colour the tape is sat on ,then apply the colour you are actually painting.Using this and Tamiya tape will give a perfect result. Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Thanks mate I did actually feel like I was rambling a bit Kind Regards Nigel
-
I hope you get the opportunity to finish this kit development Chris.She will make a stunning model.Can I be really cheeking and ask your point of reference for the hull lines.I have done preliminary investigations which have yielded nothing.The NMM don't list anything on their website and other plan offerings are as dubious as Amati's first attempt re accuracy.I actually think the most accurate kit produced was the plastic airfix example.I had one many years ago and trying to find one on ebay is not easy,they are as rare as hen's teeth now. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thank you very much Grant Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thanks mate Yes she possesses a rather streamline profile,unusual for the seventeenth century Kind Regards Nigel
-
Thank you Sjors Looking forward to the end of the 'donkey' work and being able to do some 'proper 'building Kind Regards Nigel
-
She looks lovely mate,great work All the best with your joggling I did wonder whether you would paint the inside of the bulwarks for ease before planking the deck,your pics have answered the question Kind Regards Nigel
- 1,039 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- ballahoo
- caldercraft
- (and 2 more)
-
Ok something in a way of an update.The infill has been faired although the final touches will be applied after fitting the false deck and bow/stern blocks.The deck stringers have been fitted.The two scrap pieces screwed down provide temporary clamping due to the sheer on these stringers.Next job is finishing the deck edge supports from amidships to bow and the bow/stern filler pieces.Not much more to add that the pics don't explain. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi Ed It is an excellent book.I am sure you will enjoy it.There are even copies of the weekly job sheets listing the construction work carried out each week. Kind Regards Nigel
-
Hi All When Prince was rebuilt into Royal William,her hull was both lengthened and widened.This was commonplace for the British Navy at the time and ships were rebuilt using a rule of proportional scale.I won't elaborate on the theory,I have a book covering the calculations used and it covers many pages. See the wiki article with dimensions here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Prince_(1670) Interesting to see she had 3 rebuilds the last in 1756 which reduced the then Royal William to 80 guns. Kind Regards Nigel
Our Emblem ®
