NMBROOK
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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Thanks buddy Really looking forward to doing it as it is a new challenge for me I have a very,very cunning plan up my sleeve(sorry for sounding like Blackadder )to machine the ebony planking in situ to the waterline All will be revealed when I get to that stage,but needless to say,she won't fit in the miller Kind Regards Nigel -
Cheers mate Now to try and explain what I mean To my knowledge,Bill Short's Sovereign is the only model on this forum to use this technique so far.On Mordaunt the wales were black but so was the hull down to the waterline.Basically the black area is planked like normal in ebony,the waterline marked and the planking cut off to this line.Boxwood is then used below,however the individual plank runs must line up with each other.This gets more complicated on this build as a small section of the lower wale dips below the waterline.So there is also a section of wale to replace with boxwood.This is the extreme end of 'painting with wood'Hope this helps explain,just have a look a Bill's log if you aren't sure.. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks mate ,like I said this is a necessity to create the joint at the waterline Kind Regards Nigel
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Great work Mark Fantastic to see that you are able to carry on with some work after you shoulder problems Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks mate The extra support will be vital to splicing the planking at the waterline Kind Regards Nigel
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I buy enameled copper wire on spools from the electronics store Maplins in the uk.It is used for winding armatures.You can get in a multitude of diameters ranging down to far below what you are after.The beauty is it works out very cheap per m.Can't tell you how cheap as they are listed by weight.I should imagine there will be a similar store in your country. Kind Regards Nigel
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I have decided to give myself a short break from the small fiddly stuff on my Caroline build and take up where I left off with this.I am continuing on with infilling the hull with limewood.The sections are cut from 20mm sheet.Not much to show,but work shall be continuing on over the next week or two.As I mentioned earlier the bulkheads have been altered to use 1.5mm single planking.The wales will be 3mm ebony,but I am considering splicing the planks at the waterline,ebony above and box below.I do not want to use holly or maple for the 'whitestuff' because I will already have pear,box and ebony and I personally feel that is enough colour variation,any more and it will be too much. Kind Regards Nigel
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
NMBROOK replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Absolutely fabulous work Doris Your model is full of life and detail,I could easily spend hours looking at the pictures. Kind Regards Nigel- 881 replies
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- royal caroline
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I see where you are coming from Mark I would say that would be a rarity rather than common practice.We discussed something similar on Michael's Vasa log,looking at the 1/10 model pictures he posted with the incredibly long cannons,I would have said that would be the case for those. Kind Regards Nigel
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I maybe inclined to say yes and no Mark Invariably the breeching rope is sized to give the minimum amount of space required to load the cannon,shortening the rope any further would result in no operational space.Generally I would say there is generally no additional 'spare' space to afford to shorten the rope. Kind Regards Nigel
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Totally agree with you on this one Chris.Many of the models I build have internal decks but no accurate drawings exist for the layout.I try to calculate the serviceable area required for the armament and develop the interior around this.This not only applies to obstructions,but also to deck levels as several of the works by Van de Velde I use for reference do compromise feasability. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Mate I this a new game'name that wood' Ok here is my verdict A without any doubt,spruce B obechi C pretty sure this is lime Kind Regards Nigel
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Having recently read Richard Ensor's 'Restoration warship' he does state that recoil was far more violent with bronze cannons,than with iron.An absolute mountain of research went into the book,so I am inclined to agree with him.He doesn't go in to any great reasoning other than to say that many bronze cannon's would develop stress fractures in service which would worsen the problem.I know the time period being generally discussed is perhaps a little later and concerns iron cannons but thought I would add this as it is relevant. Kind Regards Nigel
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She is looking good mate Sorry to hear you are at the mercy of the postman again Kind Regards Nigel
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- ballahoo
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They look fantastic in position mate!The ship was missing something before as they are a very prominent feature.I was unsure if billings supplied them and you simply hadn't got round to fitting them.You have answered my question Kind Regards Nigel
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Looking good Patrick I am keenly following along as I am partial to a good bit of kitbashing myself .Definitely a better approach to remove and later replace the deck beams when installing internal detail,saves a ton of time in the long run as access is so much easier. Kind Regards Nigel
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Fantastic work Bob!!The deck framing looks fabulous and all the work will payoff big time with the exposed areas.Thanks for the full profile shot She is looking wonderful Kind Regards Nigel
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Great tutorial Alistair I use a very similar process but with acrylics exclusively.The biggest thing I have found with acrylics is to use Tamiya thinners.Yes they are expensive,but they include a retarder and flow enhancer,normal water doesn't.The difference with the thinners added really is 'night and day'.It is important to keep adding thinners to the paint on the palette as it starts to thicken whilst you are working. The biggest difference is I spray the clear which is a polyurethane varnish.I use a professional automotive touch up gun with a large compressor.This enables perfect atomisation and because of the volume of material delivered eliminates the drying of the clear as it immediately touches the surface.This gives it a chance to 'flow out' and stops the grainy appearance you can get from spraying. Kind Regards Nigel
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Looking good Mark Speaking from my own experience,the ship's boats are almost worthy of their own build log Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Jase and nice to see you on here.Seriously considering saving pictures to memory stick because you never know Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed B.E. and Nils for your very kind words.Unfortunately I had a clear out of pictures on my laptop as things were getting a little congested.Unfortunately I am certain I no longer have copies of the missing images. Kind Regards Nigel
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Nice carving work mate!One slip with the knife and he would have been a she If it is Obechi,then very well done,this stuff whilst hard,is also very splintery. Kind Regard Nigel
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Glad to see you managed to bring the keel back straight Wayne Kind Regards Nigel
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