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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Looking good Michael ,it is a shame about the holes,if you do decide to plug any and redrill then some small walnut pins made in the dremel 'lathe'should do the trick Kind Regards Nigel
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Yes mate,the pivot point.Yes I understand,essentially the pictured cannon is not one that fits on the kit carriages.I agree that Billings would have to make some educated guesses,especially at the time the kit was designed.I think they would have more likely produced a generic cannon enabling them to use this with Norske Love as well.As kit parts go though this is definitely one of the better representations on the kit market. Kind Regards Nigel
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My mistake mate,they did make them from plastic once upon a time I think?They are pretty good,I do wonder why the trunnion isn't in the correct place as the rest is spot on. Kind Regards Nigel
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A very good question Hans and welcome to the forum by the way.I think that really the only thing these two kits have in common is roughly the same number of guns.The Caldercraft Victory presents you with excellent instructions and good materials but perhaps limited scope for personalisation.Royal william on the other hand has minimal instructions,probably the best plans in the kit industry,excellent materials and an almost endless scope for modifications,additions and scratchbuild work.Euromodels plans include many details(including interior)relating to the original going far beyond the kit contents allowing modelers to take things as far as they wish.The Royal William does not have the sheer mass of laser cut parts you get with the Victory,instead expecting builders to fashion parts from solid timber themselves.For me,Royal William any day of the week but then again I am biased because I bought the Royal William plans for a future scratchbuild. Kind Regards Nigel
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Fabulous work Matti With your painting skills I should imagine it is immaterial that the carriages are plastic.Your scratchbuilt cannon barrels are wonderful and you would not buy anything off the shelf that looked like those.With the quality of your build,it is easy to forget that this is your first wooden build,exemplary work my friend!!! Kind Regards Nigel
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Coming on well Eamonn,nearly there,then you get to do it all again mate. Kind Regards Nigel
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I would just like to say what an amazing build Drazen!!This is fabulous work Kind Regards Nigel P.S.Your friend Mile needs no introduction,his model of Prince is exceptional
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Bend cast metal parts
NMBROOK replied to bogeygolpher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
One way to heat to avoid melting them would be to put in a domestic oven.The lowest melting point for this type of metal is around 230 deg c.If the oven is set below this,no matter how long the casting is in the there it will never exceed the ovens temperature.I agree with Andy though,resin copies could be the way to go.You can actually remove these from the mould when still 'green' ,they are hard enough to maintain their detail,but still soft enough to be shaped to a contour. Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Eamonn Regarding glues,I find the deluxe materials alphatic (unfortunately not stocked by CMB) to be the most superior available in the UK.I have tried the Titebond range,but they don't seem to soak in as well as the deluxe materials version.I save normal PVA for building jobs around the house,it never dries hard like Alphatic does.You will notice the difference when it comes to sanding. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Antony for your kind words I agree,I think she is a lovely vessel,I really am surprised that their are so few models made of her.Prince of 1670 seems to be the popular choice for the period,but I am prepared to wait and see what Chris Watton comes up with,before I tackle her. Kind Regards Nigel
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Bend cast metal parts
NMBROOK replied to bogeygolpher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I have not tried with white metal,but annealing works with brass castings.If it is a big bend then I anneal and bend so far and then anneal again.This overcomes the work hardening caused by bending. Kind Regards Nigel -
If you stick with epoxies and avoid polyesters,the detail will be durable and crisp.Most fibreglass model hulls use polyurethane resins which reproduces the detail but can be prone to chipping.With a hull of this size I would go for max durability.Yes the resins are more expensive but I think worth it in the long run Kind Regards Nigel
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Looking very good Eamonn,great work.I have to agree with Kester,snapping those ears off is butchery careful cutting and removal is the way to go Theoretically the rabbet at the bow will secure the planks,but pinning shouldn't be necessary anyway.Got to google'the plank' now Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Antony Thank you.I was unsure if the RTV silicon could withstand the temperature.I know you can get the stuff that needs putting in an oven to cure.I have casted with resins,but not tried Pewter yet. Kind Regards Nigel
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Very nice work Vivian!You are obviously smitten with this hobby in view of your stash Kind Regards Nigel
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I have no doubt Euromodel's Defflinger will give you a challenge.There is one option if you can afford it and that is to buy the kit and assess for yourself if you have the confidence to start building,if not,then you could always buy a simpler kit to act as a stepping stone.The quality of the materials,plans and fittings is amongst the best on the market,it is purely the lack of comprehensive instructions that make things harder.Another point is that their kits do not come with a mountain of precut plywood parts,you are expected to make items out of the solid wood provided.I personally replace any precut plywood parts that are visible with solid wood,so I don't mind. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Alistair,yes I understand there was a log on the old site.There are some pics of a fully framed build on shipmodeling.net.I have found one or two builds on the net,but as a whole it seems to be a very unrepresented ship.That is a plus for me,I would rather do something a little different and agree she is a very fine vessel from my favourite period. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Max Great work and a commendable first build.When hooked you will find this hobby very rewarding but also very challenging.The only thing regarding Euromodel's kits is that you require the experience to be able to plan your build.Ultimately you are working to drawings,and whilst I know Peter is doing his best to supplement the very modest instructions,the order of works is down to you.I dare say you will get help on this forum,it is a shame there isn't a Defflinger log for you to follow. Kind Regards Nigel
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