bdgiantman2

I agree completely with Mike and Tim. Although you did thoroughly explain earlier in the blog spelling out how you did it, seeing the video helped a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do that.

Am I seeing small pieces of PVC pipe being used for base of masts? If so, that is sneaky of you.

Brian

Mike, your model of the Winchelsea is coming along very nicely. I admire the work you and Chuck do on your ships. I evidently don't know what this belt term being mentioned for the area you are building is referring to. Have never heard of this belt in any of the books I use for my guidance.

Keep up the great work.

Brian

I see that the ol' paintbrush has been busy lately.  The sleek hull looks really nice now painted, as well as the other areas as well. I like the shrubs you are placed around the pool and elsewhere on the ship, and your furniture building skills always amaze me.  I don't think though that the pool in stern would be all frothy like you have it, it isn't a jacuzzi.  

Brian

You, sir, are doing an amazing job on this model. Very clean and professional looking. Keep up this project.

Brian

Maybe you could use some really thin pieces of cardboard or the material used to make manila envelopes to make up that half of a millimeter spacing? Just a thought.

Brian

Absolutely incredible work planking the lower hull of your Winnie model, Mr. Passaro. Now after this overload of information, I want to make sure I am understanding correctly as I am very new to your style of building and markings.  So you want us to take a strip of sticky paper, and make markings on this piece of paper with the beams to plank the hull (you are calling these belts?). Then we are to put this piece of paper onto each rib of any model and make additional tick marks on the actual ribs and after get all the markings done then can use either tape or planks to make sure everything is all properly made? And then after making sure everything lines up properly can start gluing on the hull planks onto the model.

Brian

 I really like my Dremel Scroll Saw that I got through Home Depot (should be $60, maybe a tad less). The saw is very accurate and easy to use, the only one issue I have is no tilt-base (although I don't really need it thanks to my disc and belt sander). I have yet to get a modeling table saw nor do I have any lathe as of yet. Small steps but do what I can with what I have.

Brian

Very nicely done model of Niagara, sir. The only one thing I want to say is I am a little personally concerned about how some of the ropes from that three-way joint midships passes right in front of the carronades. In my research and reading about the brigs of 1812 war, Niagara was notorious for catching her own rigging on fire shooting off the carronades.

Brian

She is looking so life-like and ready to experience being in the water. Outstanding skills building this model. You are very talented.

I really like those scrolls, and the other details you are making on the Winnie. This model is turning out very impressive. The examples of both wood types are a pleasure to see. And thanks for the lesson about fairing inboard, a new one for me.

A while back on this web site, I recall a certain Mr. Chuck Passaro teaching to use an x-acto blade for doing finer details such as curving scrolls or the s-shape decorations a lot of ships of the time period had. Perhaps that same advice would help the volute details.

Those wings for the radoms came out sick! I like a lot. Sapphire is coming out amazing so far, she looks so bad-***. Another really cool feature about the real yacht is that the pool in the stern doubles as a helipad which retracts into the deck when charters want to be in the pool. Even though not the same exact scale, I found these cool 3d printed helicopters and have one "flying" alongside the ship.  

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/aircraft?q=&sort=popularity&facet[pdcId][]=150&facet[pdcId][]=490&facet[price][min]=1&facet[price][max]=2500&facet[price][from]=1&facet[price][to]=2500

Very impressive model so far. I am actually wanting to build this beautiful ship next. Robnbill's blog of this ship has been an inspiration to me as well. Eagle and her other sister ship from 1000 miles apart (Niagara) were actually built in 90 days, not 19. It still is an extremely fast build.

Brian D.

I am really looking forward to what you do next on this ship, Mr. Passaro. This model is very nice and I love the Cedar wood.

And off to the races he goes again!! Another amazing miniature ship model already in the makings. I am looking forward to following this one as much as Genesis. By the way, nice job making those two blisters on either side of the bridge. These two power yachts are real beauties. 

Thanks for the info, gentlemen. 

Hello Chuck, as usual I am late to the party, oh well. Your model here is absolutely beautiful and you are very quickly making a convert out of me to use Yellow Ceder for my next project. A question I would like to ask if I may.  I am considering adding a model of the Long Boat to go with the ship I plan to build next. By chance do you plan to offer the Long Boat kit out of Ceder as well as the ships wheel kit? Major potential purchases coming up. Keep up the great model building as well as supply store.

Brian D

CDRUSN, I have found out that you have to change the pixel settings on cell phones to take pictures and post onto this site. I have used my Android phone a few times to post pictures, have always had to make pictures with fewer pixels to upload. Not sure how computer is better able to upload a picture instead of cell phone. Just my experiences and two cents.

Brian

Hello Marcus,

I remember having the same issue as you of having difficulty uploading pictures from my Android phone onto this site. It seems that the size of picture that the phone takes is too big or too many pixels for this site to accommodate.  After being given an old digital camera, the problem ended for me. Another solution you can try to do is to e-mail yourself the pictures and then using a computer upload the pictures onto your forum.

Brian

Channell, great job on the building of those anti-aircraft guns for your Bismarck model. I have to admit I am amazed at the detail difference when making the guns with the photo-etched metal. Keep up the great blog.

Brian

Hi Joe and Greg, thanks for the replies. For my next project I am considering building Brig Eagle using the plans by Gene Bodnar. In his guide, the keel measures 1/4 inches wide and 3/8 inches thick. One of the guys in the club I am with here in Denver was e-mailing to me it is better to get over-sized and mill down to correct thickness. He offered to mill for me. I thought that I saw that Crown Timber had a piece that was 1/2 inch thick, but that was wrong. However, I can glue two pieces of wood 1/4 inch thick on top of each other and mill down to size. I only hope that it doesn't show super obviously.  Gene says the keel bottom comes in three main pieces each being a little over a foot long. The length is not an issue at this time.

Brian

I don't know if this is in the wrong category, if it is, admin has permission to move to right place. For my next model, I am considering ordering boxwood through Jason at Crown Timber. However, I need a certain size of wood that Jason doesn't provide. This will be my first time ever working personally with boxwood. For those of you who have used boxwood, do you advise planing down a thicker size to the desired size or to make layers? Thanks for the help, I am looking forward to this.

Brian

I like your idea, been following quietly along on this dio. If I recall the Ballard book correctly about the Bismarck, he had to use an un-manned sled because the water was too deep for a manned sub to visit. ARGO looks about the same length as a VW Bug, but half the width, if that might help you. ARGO though would be using scale lights the size and power of Christmas-tree lights. Would be interesting to see on your model. Keep up the work.

Brian

I have heard that one of those materials has a problem of building static inside the case, thinking it is the acrylic cases. But it also depends on the material of the model. A friend of mine has a beautiful sailing model of USS Constitution, sails and all. He that problem whenever the case is lifted/lowered.  Not sure how a plastic and metal model like Bismarck would respond. Personally, I would go no thicker than 1/4 in material for the case either way.

Brian

The business ends of Bismarck have finally been installed! She is looking mean and ready to go. I can hear the sea pumps right now and the whirring of 1940s technology. I can't wait to see what you do for the seaplanes Bismarck carried, assuming that you even put some on this model. Great job on this ship, someday I may have to attempt something like this myself.

Brian