sonicmcdude

Here's the pics for my Triton Build.  First up was test build of one of the cannon done in 1:24th

ah...er.. Michael.. this is a forum for model ships... not full sized ones.    Yeah, it looks that good.

Hello dear friends,
 
here I show you pictures of manufacture of the steering wheel.
I hope that it is interesting for you.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Goodbye, see you soon.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 

 
Has anyone used this or a similar product? My needs are small in this category and this looks perfect
 
 
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Jeronimo.
 
cont...
 

 

 

 

Hello all and thanks ! (We are just four or five... )
 
I have stolen a little time just to cut the parts of the stem. My intention is to glue all the four pieces #3 together and then sand and fair them. That´s why I´ve left some extrawood above where they joint with piece #4.
 
Here are the rough cut pieces and the lefties.
 

 
Then in order to sand them I always ensure the perpendicular of the table sand machine.
 

 
Here is the tyniest piece I´ve ever sand with the disc sand.
 

 
And here is the result of sanding. I have to fair them much more. I hope to have some time tomorow and glue the whole thing together. We´ll see.
 

 
Best wishes!
 
 
Daniel.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Sonic
my interpretation (from engineering experience of drawing interpretation):
- brown line is the profile of the bulkhead's side facing the stern
- black line is the profile of the bulkhead's side facing the stem
At top, bulkhead rear profile is larger (port to starboard) than forward profile (an a bit higher, too)
At mid height, bulkhead rear profile is narrower than forward profile
At low height, bulkhead rear profile is again larger than forward profile. This looks strange to me, as Frame27 is close to stern and hull lines should become even more narrow.
So: you should obviously cut the frame following the enveloping line (= the most external, whichever it is, brown or black), then draw the brown lines on the back side (facing the stern) of the bulkhead and the black lines on the front side (facing the stem), then sand the bulkhead profile so to join the front black line to the rear brown line.
Also note that you have to carve two notches on the front side of the bulkhead, for gunport lintel and gunport sill.
 
Curious to read other answers, to see if I'm correct (I've very few experience with this type of interpretation).
 
Following your job with much interest, this could be my next project...
 
Ciao
Fam

I found on my hard disk some old 3D drawings for the project. I think they give some very interesting views about the frameing of the POF model. If I remember right Don has drawn them:
 
 

Hi folks, this is my serving jig.  It is currently being modified with a different rope securing mechanism (soft wood collets will replace the dome nuts, and the feeder arm on the serving device will be extended slightly.  Makes life a 'tad' easier when serving longer lengths   The stainless steel rods (not the drive rod) are from an A3 printer.
 
And... no I am not the builder of this fine device, I am mechanically challenged , a friend built it for me.
cheers
Pat
 
The device is designed to take a full length of a shroud or preventer or stay (scale 1:48) and serve it as required in one pass.

 
The motors are geared down 12V DC  with a maximum rotation of 120rpm.

 
Controls the feed direction and speed of the serving stock assembly.  Allows me to serve with or against the lay.

 
Controls the direction of turn and rotation speed of the scale rope to be served,  The turning rope pulls the serving thread from the spool and is kept perpendicular to the served rope by adjusting the feed motor speed (previous picture)

 
I attach a 12V supply here.

 
The purpose of the vertical bars is to provide friction to maintain steady tension on the serving stock thread.

 
The rope to be served is fed through the dome nuts (next photo) through the shaft and figure 8 secured to the bars to maintain tension.  Alternatively, the grub screws on the top of this assembly can be screwed down to bite on the rope.

 
These dome nuts are attached to the ends of each drive shaft to hold the rope to be servved central; the size of the hole is determined by the rope diameter.

Dave, Inspired by photos of your jig, here is my version of a serving jig, which I made up yesterday from old brass gears I found in the bits box. The frame is timber scraps on an old model baseboard. Bearings are brass tube ferrules drifted into interference fit holes.
I've chosen to follow your idea of making the driving shafts hollow. The small alligator clips were caniballised from a "helping hands".
 

 
Thanks for the idea Dave.
 
Cheers
Jim

HMMMMM!!!
 
   WE'RE TALKING PIECES OF WOOD HERE JOHN, MAYBE YOU GOT THIS PROBLEM HERE
 
How much wood would a woodchuck chuck
If a woodchuck could chuck wood?
He would chuck, he would, as much as he could,
And chuck as much as a woodchuck would
If a woodchuck could chuck wood.
Kids' Funny Tongue Twisters
 
 
also known as groundhogs.....don't get them mad because some are armed and dangerous my friend!!!

i was looking for a cheap solution for bending planks. electric plank bender is too expensive for me (on very tight budget at the moment). cutting the planks with the hand tool is without the chance for me, im too clumsy and have wasted too many already.
so i resurected the old method of bending, by heat.
all i needed was an empty tin, tea candle light and cloth peg.
tin must be of small diameter, so it gets hot quickly, also allows you to do tighter curves.
planks can be bent in many ways, lateraly too. basically, with a bit of patience, you can twist the plank without breaking it...
 


 

Old business:  I have an adapter part on order so that I can put my old hard drive in my new computer, and retrieve all the old photos.
 
New business:  I have a tough time, sometimes, with the "leave well enough alone" concept.  The wale on my Oneida has been bothering me since I first put it on, almost three years ago.  At the time I was confused about the meaning of this line on the Chapelle drawing:
 

 
 
My interpretation (keep in mind I knew next to nothing, and couldn't find much info) was that it marked a difference in the wale between a strake of "straight" planking above the line, and top and butt planking below.  How silly.  But that's the way I built it.
 
 
I now believe (having seen a little more of the shipbuilding world) that it indicates a change in the thickness of the wale.  Below is a sketch of the wale as built, with a dashed green line showing how I think it should have been built--
 

 
 
I just couldn't leave this alone, so work was begun to change it--
 

 

 

 

 
 
Looks pretty ragged here--
 

 

 
 
But better after sanding--
 

 
 
During the staining process--
 

 
 
And the result after one coat of finish--
 

 
 
I probably didn't take it down quite far enough, but I'm satisfied that at least the difference is there now--
 

 
 
There's not much rhyme or reason sometimes to the things I "need" to fix, and the things I let go.  This one fell in the former category but now I'm happy and I can move on!  
Ron

Sinan, of course you shouldn't stop making models because of my comment. If had the powers to persuade people that way I would be a preacher.Indeed the sea is not all that far from your city when I compare that with Utah and other places much further from the seas.
 
You mentioned Monte Negro which reminded me of our trip there last year. We were in Kotor and loved the little excursion we took to the church on the rock (the little island in the middle of this beautiful fjord). I know this is not part of the topic but I couldn't help myself.

Hi Sinan!
Looks like you're off to a good start there.
1:72 vs 1:48, you don't make it too easy on yourself with that scale on the other hand, some details can be left off. At 1:48 I guess one wants to put in as much details as possible but at 1:72, some things can be "forgotten".

Hi all... this is my recently started build of the complete model POB of the Triton...here are some pictures...

Poplar is a good wood for modeling.  It is a little a little harder than bass and is easy to work with.  It will take stains and can made to resemble scale oak.
David B

Hi all.. this is my all homemade tools in one post.. maybe someone will need some idea

Hi all... this is my recently started build of the complete model POB of the Triton...here are some pictures...

Now that is cool. Wonder if they are going to do that with the one that crash on us.  LOL

Thanks Sinan
 
The black boards are removable so I can do deeper cuts and the blade will tilt to 45 degrees also. It's good for cutting larger stock down to a workable size. I will be adding a board on the front and the back so I will be able to clamp down a rip fence. Will have to build myself a mini saw so I won't have to do as much sanding.  It's nice to have the security wrench within reach instead of searching for it all the time.
 
Ron 

Well, when the site was down I was in the garage building some more homemade tools. I already built my Wood Lathe http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/126-my-homemade-wood-lathe/ . Here are some pictures of my homemade Table Saw (not mini) and my homemade Drum Sander and my homemade Thickness Sander. No plans or anything, just built them as I went along. I think I put good use of the time spent during the change over, and they work too. 
 
Ron 

Just thought I would re-post the pictures of my homemade wood lathe.

Hi all.. this is my all homemade tools in one post.. maybe someone will need some idea

Hi all.. this is my all homemade tools in one post.. maybe someone will need some idea