KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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A interesting project Zbip. I particularly liked how you approached problem solving. The below decks gear is very neatly done.
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Mhkash - looking good - what wood are you using for the second layer of planks? -
Always a pleasure to catch up on your exquisite work.
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- schooner
- la jacinthe
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I look forward to Danday. The quality of the original photos is very good, you must have found them very helpful.
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- leviathan
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Hello Pat. I did consider making a template (hole in a piece of brass sheet) and then scratching the lines into the hull. I worried however that I would make a mess of it. I din't consider pencil lines but I would be concerned that they would degrade over time with cleaning. Yes Vossie - feel free to cancel the contract! Vaddoc - thank you for looking and the positive comment. I decided my preferred approach to the scuppers was to cut the doors out of .004" soft brass sheet and surface mount them. The scale protrusion above the hull is .150" and I think this will give me the barely visible look I am looking for. The doors were scaled form the plan and cut out using a craft knife - a few passes with the knife did the trick. The corners were then rounded with 600 grit wet and dry paper. The brass was easily distorted and I flattened it by applying force with the wrong end of a 10mm reamer while pressing the brass into a piece of MDF. I needed 10 doors - 5 per side. I marked out the position for the doors using masking tape. The positions were scaled from the plans. Using masking take had the benefit of masking the hull from any inadvertent spread of glue. The doors came out gently curved which helped as the concave side was put on concave face towards the hull. Applying clamping pressure ensured that the edges were forced hard against the hull. They were glued in position using 5 minute set 2 part epoxy. I chose epoxy to give a little adjustment time. The scuppers look very obvious in the next picture but I am expecting them to "fade" with the application of the matt white bulwark strip. The next job is to make and mount the rubbing strip. This is profiled so i need to make a profile scraper.
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Mark, Looking lovely and a very attractive base - very interested how you go about the support cradles.
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I have been away for a few days and gardening duties are taking more time - hence not a great deal done on Germania. Over the course of about 5 hours I made 4 final decisions on the hull paint scheme, needless to say all the decisions were different. In the end I decided on the minimalist approach advocated by my wife and daughter. I could have toughed it out but the white flag seems more sensible. The final decision is for a waterline band and a bulwark band - both in white. I made a start on masking up the hull in preparation for airbrushing. The first line of tape to go on was fairly easy and followed the bulwark plank at the deck line (the plank edge was still visible beneath the varnish). I don't have a decent laser level so the waterline band was marked out with the traditional pen in a surface block method. I tried a few pens but none would produce a easily visible line against the dark mahogany background. To create a surface for marking out I laid a series of vertical bands of tape (at about 1 inch spacing) and then marked the lines on these. Having done this I carefully peeled back the upper (lower) edge and without removing the tape cut it back to the marked line. I then used this as a guide for placing the horizontal masking tape strip. I then repeated this for the lower (upper) horizontal masking strip. Finally I removed what was left of the vertical strips of tape. I now need to decide what I am doing about the scuppers - 5 each side. The scupper doors are not very visible. They hardly show at all on some photos (look below the left hand end of the steps). They are more clear in the next photo. And disappear entirely in the next photo. On the model I want them only to be seen when you are looking for them - so they need to be quite subtle. I also don't want to weaken the already insubstantial bulwarks. Anyway something to think about overnight.
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Good point Roger. Roger - I don't know about the DC. The replica is of German design but built in a Spanish yard.
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I like that suggestion Sherlock. Prompted by your reply I had another look at the plans. Their appears to be two identical units mounted in opposite directions at the origin of two of the pipes. They do look as though they may be generators. Not sure why two would be needed - either overkill or an owner who cant live without his aircon.
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Paul - wasn't aware you knew my wife personally! Thanks to all of you who have offered opinions on the holes - I could have provided a little extra information to inform your detective work as follows:- You can see the origin of some of the pipes inside the hull. I don't know what the feature is ahead of the engine but it seems to be associated with 2 of the outlets. Vossie - Thank you - i will try this some time. I wasn't really trying to get a high gloss finish and actually chose a silk finish poly. It just looks a bit shinier than it is under flash lighting. John - I admire the confidence of the motor driven boating fraternity - particularly the ones who put their lives in the hands of single engines that are engineered to meet a price point in someones choice criteria. Sails have never failed me, occasionally they rip - but usually you have more than one to get you home. Engines on the other hand have failed me more than once.
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Peter, if you start a build log you will find many willing to help and guide. In so far as navigation is concerned let me know what you are trying to do or find and I will try to help.
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Wonderful Gary - really enjoyed seeing it - Until I studied the post I thought I was looking at some old photos of a real workshop.
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I am just being precise with my description and not being presumptious about what the future might hold.
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For now I have finished with the poly coats. The law of diminishing returns finally won the day. I think in the end it was somewhere between 12 and 15 coats. Under the stern are three outlets - one is clearly the exhaust and the purpose of the other two is unclear - at least to me? I placed masking tape in the position of the nearest frame and then transferred the position of the holes on to the hull. The diameters were scaled from the plan. I forgot that the positions were reversed on the upturned hull and marked the holes as a mirror image of what they should have been. Fortunately I caught the error before I drilled the holes. I also drilled the holes for the dolphin striker eye bolt and the stay bracket. Blind ended brass inserts were turned for the holes under the stern and a drop of black paint was placed at the bottom of the hole to hide the end. The various brass hull attachments were safely collected in jar lid for future use. The next step was to finally decide on the hull paint scheme. Over the course of 2 hours I made four separate decisions all of which were different. Rather than make a decision I started sorting trough my stock of paint pots. At this point my current wife walked into the workshop, observed what I was doing and commented:- "You aren't going to paint it, ARE YOU!" I think I could interpret this as a question - what do you all think?
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Patrick - this is the traditional definition:- Bodging (full name Chair-Bodgering) is a traditional woodturning craft, using green (unseasoned) wood to make chair legs and other cylindrical parts of chairs. The work was done close to where a tree was felled. The itinerant craftsman who made the chair legs was known as a bodger or chair-bodger. However its more modern meaning is as follows:- A person who makes or repairs something badly or clumsily.
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Yes - I have never had any success with water based stuff - like you I have always found bonding between layers is a problem. I hope someone knows how to do It well as i am eager to learn. The soldering does look ambitious, I'd be tempted to fold up 2 U sections from strip and then to join them with a single solder joint.
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Kortes, Pat, John, Michael - thank you. Not sure that this would work as well as you might think Pat. The unlikely places are all full of junk previously saved for a rainy day. I hear what you say Michael, however I think my current wife is working herself up to providing some ground rules. She has been my current wife for 43 years and so expects to be listened to. I spent a few hours today hacking at a few small bits of brass. The eyebolt and mounting plate for the top of the dolphin striker needed to be made. As well as the bracket that fastens the jib boom stay to the hull. Both were scaled from the plans. The stay bracket was marked out on .040 thick brass sheet. it included pegs for inserting into the hull to provide strength and remove reliance on glue. The bracket was drilled to take the reinforcing boss before being cut out with a combination of the mill mounted slitting saw and a freehand jewellers saw. A tube was used to form the boss and this was soldered in. The eyebolt for the dolphin striker boss was turned from 3/16 inch rod. A ball was first turned with a profile tool before being flattened on both sides on the mill and then drilled to form the eye. Then it was back to the lathe to form the neck. In the following photo the eyebolt remains attached to the rod from which it was formed. Finally the eyebolt mounting plate was made fro a bit of 1/64 inch brass sheet. Not much to show for the effort!
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Keith - that was a reference to my last build where I actually lost the rudder. I was recently reminded in an earlier post of this event. As advised, I plan to take a photo of its location and post it here as a reminder, i'll do this as soon as I find my camera.
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Hello Phil, Just found your build. I have always been a fan of Warrior ever since I first visited her about 20 years or so ago. I have visited many times since. I will be pleased to follow as you complete your build.
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