KeithAug
-
Posts
3,850 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by KeithAug
-
Further to my previous post It is probably worth adding that I cut planks between the blade and the extended (extra height fence), and that i find the following modification very beneficial / necessary:- I tend to find the slight taper on the back of the fence is insufficient when I am cutting thin planks. I know that some recommend locking the front of the fence and then pushing over the rear to increase the clearance. I prefer not to strain the fence. What I use is a .020 thick 6 inch rule which I attach to the fence using double sided tape. The inner end of the rule is positioned 1/4 inch behind the front of the blade. It works a treat.
- 20 replies
-
- 10
-
-
I have done a lot of plank making with the Byrnes saw - mostly in mahogany and obechi. For ripping less than 1/4" stock I always use slitting saw blades. I have only ever had a problem with slitting saw blades when they are dull. For ripping planks anywhere between .020" and .080" thick I use a .0315" thick (.8mm) slitting saw blade of 80mm diameter and 108 teeth. I have tried narrower blades but they flex and produce inconsistent plank widths. For stock that is more than 1/4" thick I use blades of the same thickness and diameter but with either 72 or 36 teeth. Now for a bit of heresy. I use cheap (really cheap) slitting blades off Amazon and sling them when they become dull - which only really happens when I abuse them by cutting metal with them on the mill. Here are the blades I buy. They come in the flowing sizes. Because the blades have a 22mm bore you do need a 1/2" to 22mm spacer. I made one but you can buy them directly from Jim Byrnes.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat - I'd be inclined to try Carl's method. Rather than using wire though the holes I'd use a steel dressmakers pin as it is likely to be stiffer than wire.- 993 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
Roger - Im not sure what they did with Germania but none of the photos show any sort of oil canning.
-
Hi John, Yes its a key skill these days. While training as a surgeon my son published a technical paper on the benefits of video gaming when learning the skills of key hole surgery. Apparently his seniors were quite impressed how quickly he picked it up. He explained that the trick was to forget your hands exist and "connect your brain" directly to the video screen. If I tried it I would probably get it wrong and connect the drill to my brain.
-
Paul, Pat, Gary, Druxey. Thank you, sometimes things work out when they could have gone badly wrong.
-
Chasseur - she has a steel hull but that aside your comments are still valid - thank you for your interest and comments. I am not sure about poured on epoxy as I don't have any experience of it. My current thoughts are multiple layers of wipe on poly which I have used before. It needs lots of layers and takes many days.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, I know why you think this and indeed I don't do it frequently but it isn't all that difficult to get it back to vertical. All you need to do is rough set the head back to vertical and then mount a bar in the chuck at right angles to the spindle axis. Attach a dial indicator to the end of the bar and the check the reading against table surface - swing the bar through 180 degrees and check the reading against the table surface. If the readings are different adjust the head verticality until they become the same. It might take some time when you first do it but with practice it becomes a 10 minute job. If unclear I can supply photos.- 993 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
Good progress Jon and interesting to follow - although I fear you are already on head two and handle 3.
-
Planker's Progress 12 - Day 26. This I think will curtail the hole drilling debate - to be continued when I get to drilling the bulwarks. To position the portholes I transferred their axial position to a plank of MDF which I positioned alongside the hull. I also put a piece of masking tape on the hull with top edge laid on the top edge of the shear plank (upside down in the photo). On the plan all portholes are a fixed distance from the top edge of the shear plank with the exception of aft most two which are further away. The position of the portholes was ruled on to the masking tape using an engineers square. The vertical position was then marked with callipers. I then drilled using my pilot hole / multiple reamer method, up to 7mm. As previously explained the final size will be created using a conical sander. It worked but I am sure some of the suggested methods are better. I am wondering whether to give her a broadside armament!!!!!!!!!
-
Hello Pat - for realism painting is clearly the way to go. What I am going to do is see how the wood looks when varnished. If the grain is nice I will minimise the paint.
-
Hi Roger. Yes i can see that would work. With so many options I think we could collectively write a book on "how to make a hole in piece of wood.
-
Eberhard - I seem to remember the button method from my apprentice training days with Rolls Royce. I think this is also a good idea and will try it. For the pilot holes in method 1 and for the single drill in methods 2 / 3 I used proper wood bits. Dan - whenever I suggest I might paint the hull the mahogany zealots threaten to take a contract out on me. I am trying to keep the options open, but you are right that your method would probably guarantee the crispest finish. Maybe I should just go for a repeat of the Altair paint scheme?
-
Thank you Michael, John and Eberhard. Michael I think you and Eberhard are thinking along similar lines. I have ordered some silver steel rod and will make something along the line of these suggestions for drilling the holes in the bulwarks. I'll let you know how it turns out later. John - I was thinking about a bit of experimentation and here are the results:- I mocked up a section of hull simulating the frame and balsa capped by .050" thick mahogany planks from right to left:- Hole 1 spans the frame / balsa interface and was drilled with a 1/16" twist drill followed by a 3/32" and then 1/8" before being opened out with 4, 5, 6, and 7mm straight flute hand reamers mounted in my DIY hand drill (run on low speed). The final hole size is 8mm but I will open out the 7mm hole to 8 mm using 120 grit sandpaper on a conical former. This should give me smooth round edges. Hole 2 is completely in the balsa area and was drilled with a 7mm wood (twist) drill. It produced and acceptable result. Hole 3 spans the frame / balsa interface and was drilled with the 7mm wood drill. It did what I expected - the balsa not being strong enough to keep the drill point on centre, the drill stepped sideways on contact with the frame and ripped out a section of plank. I drilled one hole in the hull using method 1 and then opened out to 8mm using the cone sander. The result looked good, hopefully it wasn't just a lucky first strike.
-
Excellent Paul - I assume the garage has emerged from the winter freeze.
-
Kortes - you are very quick yet still maintain wonderful quality.
- 306 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- schooner
- la jacinthe
- (and 1 more)
-
Eberhard - Also seems like a good idea, although a little more complicated. I think I will try the reamer first on the test piece and then follow your suggestion if it does not work. The planks are of course glued on to the frames / balsa infill which should help resisting splitting or plank separation at the joints. I do of course have to drill holes through the bulwark at some point in there future where I am sure I will need your method. I did do a bit of a web search and as you say I couldn't find Forstner bits small enough. I am leaving the question re the extent of painting open for a while.
-
Druxey - I don't have a suitable Forstner bit so I will try the progressive opening up of the hole first. The finished hole size is 8mm (.315").
-
Dave - thank you for the advice - i was thinking along those lines but having first hand input is a good confidence boost. I was planning to do a test run on a mock up of a hull simulation so I will definitely be experimenting with your approach.
-
Pat / Kortes - thank you for your continued support. Planker's Progress 11 - Day 24. This morning was a sanding marathon - about 4 hours with a 15 minute break. This was coarse sanding to blend the planks and I used a good quality 60 grit paper on my long cork sanding block. I started at the stern where I sanded away most of the keel plank but I did achieve the clearly defined edge that I was looking for. I also carefully sanded the transom to create the required definition. You can clearly see the difference between the fully sanded and partially sanded areas in the next photo. At this stage I stared to think abut the rows of 15 portholes down each side of the hull. They appear as modest / simple affairs but are recessed below the hulls surface. This poses the problem that holes have to be cut with crisp edges as any imperfections will not be masked by a porthole flange. A lucky spot was the realisation that the port and starboard port holes are pitched differently. I think I will worry the drilling operation to death over the coming days. It wouldn't be good to spoil the hull at this point. I do question some of the design aspect of Germania. It is clear from the picture that the port hoes will be below the waterline when healed. I can't believe that some well pickled guest( high on gin from the night before) isn't going to forget to secure the cabin before venturing onto deck for their morning tipple. I think if I were the owner I would rely on the deck vents and have the port holes bolted shut. I decided not to complete the sanding along the line of the port holes feeling it would be better to do this once drilling is complete. Leaving this area only partially sanded also means that I can more easily judge the position of the holes relative to the plank edges. Sanding dust now covers almost every surface in the workshop.
-
Carl - I think this is the size you need. diameters are correct but I have not checked thickness . But you should be able to sort this out with a file. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Saw-Blade-Bore-BUSHES-Saw-Reducing-RINGS-Bushing-WASHERS-Sawblade-SPACERS-/160910979685
Our Emblem ®
