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KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Bedford - The finish is absolutely exquisite - wonderful job. -
A very nice model particularly when considering how difficult oak is to work with at small scale. Well done.
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I enjoyed catching up Paul. Coming along nicely. Deadeyes and chain looking very authentic. Pity winter is coming!!!
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Thank you all for your comments, I have done the hawser pipe trick in previous builds and am sure to use it again - probably at the deck end of the pipe. I have spent a lot of time validating and marking out the deck fitting holes - currently about 80% done. The deck is now looking like it has a bad case of woodworm. I can see that I am going to be very carful about inserting the correct fitting in the correct hole. By far the most difficult holes to position were the aforementioned holes for the deck end of the hawser pipes. I used the hawser pipes mounted in the hull without the deck fitted to make a template and used this to mark put the position. I drilled holes at both ends of the ellipse and opened these out and connected them with a needle file. I am getting fed up with holes so may move on to something else for a break. I hope to catch up with all your builds over the next few days.
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Thank you all for your congratulations. I did finally get a bit of time in the workshop today. I made a concerted effort to get a lot of the deck fitting positions established - I prefer to mark the positions on templates and then to transfer the positions to the deck by pricking through. As previously discussed I did a lot of checking of the positions using photographs. The deck has several hundred fittings which have to be checked and marked out. I colour them in on the plan as I go. The most difficult holes to position are those for the hawser pipes. You may remember that I pre-cut holes in the frames to take these pipes. Holes were cut in the hull and deck to align with these pipes. I checked the hull hole positions using folded card to make sure both sides were identical. I cut out a card template to show the angle the hawsers make with the hull as a precursor to making the hawser pipes / flanges. The hawser pipe is made from tube and a .315" (8mm) bar is turned to take this tube. The bar is then set in the mill at the angle of the template pre-determined earlier. The end of the bar is cut off at this angle using a slitting saw. The hawser pipe is then soldered in position. The slitting saw was then used to slit off a flange .050" thick. This was finally shaped with a file. The fitting against the hull was then checked before polishing and final checking.
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Nice job on nails Paul. What saw did you buy.
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After a stormy passage this little Jolly successfully berthed ahead of schedule yesterday. Her Grandad is well pleased. The shipyard will be closed for a week due to enthusiastic splicing of the mainbrace.
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Having finished the deck planking I have now commenced making it look like it has a bad case of woodworm. The deck is covered in a multitude of fittings all of which require holes of various small diameters. I am making a start on the holes which take the lower ends of the bulwark struts. There are about 50 struts per side. The positions of the struts are indicated on the plans but careful checking against photographs revealed a couple of discrepancies. Noting the discrepancies I attempted to validate all the positions from photographs. This proved to be quite a forensic task - enjoyable but very time consuming. The holes to take the struts are all equidistant from the deck edge. I made a small gauge with a stepped profile to mark them out. Then I drilled them out using 3 drills of increasing size. The final size was 3/32 inch.
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Thank you Nils. Keith, Pat, Roger, - I think Roger is correct - planking bonded to a steel deck is also what I am assuming.
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Greg, Druxey, Paul, Phil - thank you for your comments. Pat ---- It is a good question. I have had a good look round all of the photos and they don't appear on any of the planks.
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I managed to finish the deck planking. By the time I had got to the final planks on each beam the joggles were much longer than the maximum width of my chisels and I had to revert to the craft knife for cutting purposes. At maximum beam the deck edge becomes parallel with the deck planks and joggling becomes unnecessary. I have done some rough sanding (80 and 120 grit) to clean up the surface. I laid the deck on the hull to check what it would look like. Much more work to do before it is attached. I was pleased with the symmetry - by luck or judgement it was pretty well spot on.
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Nice work Paul - Lets hope kitty does not get too interested in Sirius - claws can be very sharp.
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Bedford Well done so far. I will be following along.
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John / Druxey - thank you - and thank you to others who have visited and or liked. Tom Here are some more photos which may help. The next component is a clamp which holds down the plank after it has passed through the sanding drum. I don't use it a lot but it is helpful when sanding thin planks as it stops them lifting.
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I have had a few good days progressing the deck planking. The following photos show a lot of the narrower planks now in place. I have been drawing pencil lines across the planks as I go as an aid to checking the joggling is symmetrical, fortunately it is. My joggling tool consists of 2 offcuts of deck planking each with a caulking strip glued to one edge. They are coloured red to stop them getting lost among the other offcuts. By using the red planks as a gauge I am able to accurately mark the position of the joggles in preparation for cutting out. I did a bit of sanding to confirm the deck was going to look OK. I hope to finish the deck planking in the next 2 days.
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Hull looking pretty good Gary. Well done.
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Well Patrick you have been busy while I have been away enjoying my summer break. I must say that the owner is sowing better taste than the last one, although I think the pot plants are a bit decadent, they wont last well in the salt spray. Maybe you should replace them with plastic simulants. Excellent work as usual.
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Hello Tom - my drum sander lacks sophistication I'm afraid. I use the drum and sanding tubes from an oscillating sander. The sanding table is made from 3/8 inch ply below which is a dust collection box connected to a vacuum port. Sanding is done between the upstanding wooden plank and the sanding drum. The plank pivots on the pin at the far end and coarse adjustment is made by the screw on the left hand side. The hole in the table is about 1/4 inch bigger in diameter than the sanding drum which means that I can fine tune the thickness of the sanded components by adjusting the table relative to the drum axis using the Y axis of the mill table. This works very well and allows me to achieve very accurate results.. The table clamps in the jaws of the milling vice and hence is quickly removed and replaced. Peter thank you for visiting, my methods are probably a result of my antiquity. Pat - thank you - pity about the Ashes!!!!!!!!!!! Eberhard - thank you .
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You are right - it is plastic coated. The plastic however is clear and all you see is the braided wire beneath. Its big advantage is that it is very flexible and does not retain any pre set shape.
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Well done Gary. I like your wood store and you remind me that I need to make a rack for my needle files - I have to go through the lot every time I need one - its always the last.
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