KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Eberhard - I had a quick trawl of the internet but didn't turn up anything relevant. I will keep a look out. I think I am now on coat 9 and I'm starting to get happy with the finish. I'm pretty pleased with the surface which has none of the dints and dimples that sometimes occur with a natural wood finish. The coat is still wet in the following pictures. The transom isn't right because the top line needs sanding back. I will do this when it is removed from the building board. I needed to sort out the mounting of the rudder. The plans I have are not very clear in this respect. However I am pretty sure there are 4 mounting points plus the top and bottom bearing. Anyway I scaled the gudgeons as best I could - 0.275" long x 0.200" wide x 0.100" thick. I made them from 0.250" round bar - turned down to 0.200" diameter with a hemisphere turned on the end with a profile tool. The last operation on the lathe was to drill 0.060" hole along the axis. I then moved to the mill and milled off 0.050" from each side to give a thickness of 0.100". Finally I drilled another 0.060 hole at right angles to the axis for the pintle. I then did a bit of polishing. I then soldered on the pegs which will attach the gudgeons to the keel.
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UK - wipe-on-poly brand?
KeithAug replied to bruce d's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Ah another Sussex member - we are probably neighbours and don't know it. Very hot here today - but at least the workshop is a comfortable 18 degrees. -
UK - wipe-on-poly brand?
KeithAug replied to bruce d's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Bruce, Wipe on poly is just normal oil based polyurethane diluted with white spirit. I just buy Wilko own brand poly and dilute it 1:1 with white spirit. I am using it at the moment on my Germania build if you want to see what it looks like. You can buy it at Amazon - but don't - silly price.
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Eberhard - that would make sense. The skylight is over the "owners" cabin and it is going to be quite claustrophobic with only a couple of small port holes. On the other hand if you look at the recent deck in this area it isn't exactly obvious where it would fit - the hatch that replaces it seems to be quite small in comparison.
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Eberhard - here are another 2 views. If you look at the first of the 2 previous photos you can see the Flinder's bar in profile. In the profile view below it does not appear. Probably more conclusive however is the next photo. The brass plate seems to be over where the top bracket of the Flinder's bar would have been.
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Eberhard - thank you. I'll recommend them to "The Borrowers". A very interesting question John and no doubt worthy of further debate. The next photo is of Germania Nova as built. I deduced this because of the unusual skylight structure just in front of the small table. This is a reproduction of the skylight on the original Germania. You will also see that Binnacle has the Flinders bar. At some time the skylight structure was removed to accommodate a much more practical deck table. As part of this conversion the flinders bar seems to have been removed - see photo. Not sure why they would have done this - but clearly they did. The earlier version with the skylight is an interesting modelling challenge but I personally think it looks like a bit of a carbuncle so I am building the modified version - hence no flinders bar. John I did think of doing this, its just that the original builders got a good deal on a can of black - so that is what they painted it - as per photos above. Thank you Pat.
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I think they have just found a way to make a lot of money!!!!!!!!!!
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Kortes - lovely sweep to the tiller - everything looking beautifully crafted.
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Thank you Gary. So to continue with the binnacle. The next step was to slot out the end of the pedestal to take the bracket. I finished the bracket by soldering on the top web and I also glued the 6 panels in to the pedestal. I compared the result with an alternative version of the pedestal made by scoring on simulation panel. The scoring was done on the lathe. I liked the alternative but decided to go with the more accurate panelled version. I then needed to make the the balls so hunted through my ball bearing jar for the correct size (.160"). I couldn't find any but then in a flash of inspiration I decided to check the diameter of the ball on the end of dressmakers pins that I have. It turns out to be .158" - pretty amazing really. The pins required collars (.060" diameter by .050" tall) - turned on the lathe. The shanks of the pins were cut off and the balls painted and glued in place. The base of the pedestal was cut, drilled and 4 simulation mounting studs inserted. I have included the pin in the photos for scale.
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Yes Eberhard I will slot the binnacle on the mill. I agree that making accurate narrow slots is much easier using machinery. Welcome back Michael. I too am about to enter the silly season for excursions.
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An interesting subject Phil - and so full of character.
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Thank you all for your continue interest and comments. I quite enjoy the discussions on finishes so don't feel inhibited. I have lost count of the number of coats but I think its about 6. The previous coat refused to dry in the workshop or in the boiler room. After 36 hours it was still tacky and unfit for further treatment. In desperation I stuck it on a table in the garden and a few hours later it was bone dry. I'm not sure wether it was the breeze or the sun (UV?) but what ever it was it did the trick. I took the opportunity of giving it a good rub down with wire wool before returning to the workshop for the next coat. Here is coat 6 (or something like that). Still some way to go! Otherwise I continued to busy myself with the binnacle - making the support bracket for Mr Kelvin's spheres. I didn't think I could make and mount individual brackets so I made both in one piece - this will pass through the pedestal. The bracket is .075" thick and was cut from .025 wide brass strip - shaped on the mill. It is currently too deep at .025" and will be reduced to .150" later. To create the bracket webs I cut a slot at each end with a 0.6mm (.024") slitting saw. The top of the bracket will be soldered on later. I tried 2 versions of the pedestal - the first was a more accurate interpretation of the original and had inserted panels (although 6 rather than the 10 the original seems to have). I turned the pedestal and then milled out 3mm (.118') wide slots to take the panel inserts. A strip of wood was cut to 3mm thickness to form the basis of the infill panels. This was then shaped to semicircles on the ends before being slit down to .025" thick on the table saw (using a 0.6mm (.024") blade). To be continued-----------
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I have to say I don't find steel wool to be a problem, nor is the damp cloth for that matter. By the time I am using wire wool it is basically just buffing the dried poly surface. The first couple of sealing coats are sanded with fine sandpaper so any raised fibres area removed at this stage. I have a huge roll of wire wool and I rip off a handful before I start and discard it at the finish. As for the damp cloth, I wipe the surface with paper kitchen towel and then leave it for half an hour or so before I do the following coat. The biggest watch out with wire wool is that it sits on the workbench and other flat surfaces and if left will pick up on clothing and drop on the hull during the painting process.To avoid this I find it beneficial to vacuum up any residue after using the steel wool.
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Paul - I must try making moulds some time - it looks like a useful technique. We seem to be going downhill in terms of temperature, it was very chilly in the workshop today and I was glad to leave it.
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Dan A few months ago I watched a very interesting programme on the Spanish flue epidemic at the end of the 1st world war. News of the epidemic was suppressed among the combative nations and was only called Spanish flue because as a non-combatant Spain did not have such restrictions. The source of the flu was ultimately traced to a USA farm worker who joined the US army. It travelled to Europe by troop transport and clearly Leviathan was part of this transmission path. It is not often that a ship has been a key player in the death of over 40 million souls.
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Lovely job Dan. The ventilation modification for troop transportation are really interesting - it is surprising that they went to so much trouble - I cant believe they were just to increase comfort, I guess they must have had some concerns about health.
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Eberhard - yes I use that method as well. Also I thought it might be a light - but I couldn't work out how the light got from the appendage into the body of the housing - I guess the connecting bracket is actually a square tube. Nice job on your binnacle.
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