KeithAug
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Well done Gary. I like your wood store and you remind me that I need to make a rack for my needle files - I have to go through the lot every time I need one - its always the last. -
Gary Try this https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/331888339497?chn=ps&var=542249273716&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=542249273716_331888339497&targetid=522577489903&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045826&campaignid=1782815748&mkgroupid=70885937642&rlsatarget=pla-522577489903&abcId=1139356&merchantid=9478344&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs97Y6YTW5AIVAuDtCh2WIgQPEAQYAyABEgLzZ_D_BwE Much easier to use. You can get it in lots of different thicknesses.
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I made a start on the deck planking. As previously explained the deck has 2 widths of plank. The wider planks will be .216" x .060" x 12 inch - at full scale this equates to planks 7.75" wide by 36 foot long. The narrower planks will be .125' x .060" x 12 inch - at full scale 4.5" wide by 36 foot long. I did a hunt through the shed to find a light shade of wood to represent a faded teak deck (which I think is what Germania has - see image in previous post). I came up with some old wooden kitchen doors so I thought I would give them a try. They seem to cut reasonably well, have a close grain and uniform colouration. They do feel unpleasantly fibrous when cut but sand well. The wood is quite soft and easy to cut with hand tools and doesn't seem to splinter. I haven't a clue what the wood might be. Once I had cut the slices from the door I passed them all through my improvised milling machine drum sander. As a result the widths were all within a couple of thou of the target plank widths. Planks of the correct thickness (.060") were then cut from the slices. The margin planks are only .050" thick and the extra .010" of thickness on the deck planks is to give me ample scope for sanding. I am caulking between the planks with .006" thick black card. The card is good quality to avoid fibres impregnating the wood during sanding. I cut the caulking strips from the card on the mill. I use a metal rod in the chuck to act as the backstop for the square and advance the table in .060" increments to produce caulking strips of the correct width. Having completed the margin planks I guessed what the bow and stern finish looked like. Both are under gratings and not visible in any of the photos. I shouldn't worry really as they wont be visible on the finished model. I have completed 8 of the 10 wider planks. As yet I have not needed to start joggling the stern planks. At the bow end joggling has commenced and so far is turning out pretty uniform. I am finding that cutting the joggle in the margin plank is made much easier by first drilling with a very fine drill (.020") in the corner of the piece to be removed. I then cut the short butt end with a sharp craft knife and finally cut the long edge with a single press of a vertically held 1 inch wide chisel. This seems to avoid any splintering of the margin plank. I then mark out the deck plank to fit the joggle and cut it with a vertically held chisel. With a bit of care this seems to produce and accurate result. I have just started the final (9th and 10th) wide planks. The narrower planks should slow my progress somewhat.
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Hello Gary, I enjoyed reading your log. Your progress is impressively quick - if you don't mind I will follow along.
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Back to the build log:- Mostly pondering rather than building, but still fun. The deck planking on Germania is different to that previously undertaken on Altair. On Altair a number of "wider" deck planks run parallel with the centre line while the remainder of the deck planks (narrower planks) run in a curve parallel to the margin plank. the narrower planks are "joggled" into the wider central planks:- On Germania 10 off wider central planks follow the centre line. Narrower planks then run parallel with the central planks and are joggled into the margin planks. I want the jogging to be absolutely symmetrical on each side and achieving this requires three things to happen as follows:- -The margin planks must be attached to the sub deck exactly symmetrical about the centre line. -The central planks must then be attached to the sub deck exactly on the centre line. -As the deck planks are built up progressively from the centre line to the deck edge the cumulative width must identical on both sides to maintain the symmetry about the centre line. Accurately sizing the plank widths is essential to achieve this. The first step was to attach the margin plank to the sub deck. The margin plank was made from mahogany and .160" wide by .050" thick. I used engineers dividers to form port and starboard holes in the sub deck at about 1" axial spacing. I then used pins through these holes to create a stop against which to press and form the margin plank. More pins were positioned on the outside of the margin plank to hold the plank in place and CA glue was run in to form the permanent joint. The margin plank is not full width as the tumbleholme on the bulwarks would prevent the deck dropping in place. I will add addition width to the margin plank once the deck is installed on the hull. I have a very useful redundant cork bath mat for tasks like this. The pins go in very easily but are very solid when resisting side load. As you can see I have not got very far with the plan:-
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Hello Gary - just catching up - lovely job. I particularly liked the finish on the exhaust pipe. Solder for the hose pipe is a good Idea which I must use.
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Hello John - yes - we were in Greenland when the offer to buy was made. It didn't seem to prompt any celebrations. Funnily I did think of you while in town of Nanortalik. The town had a museum with a good display of traditional Kayaks. I thought you might like to extend your canoe building skills. More pictures available if you are interested. Because Greenland didn't have trees the kayaks were made from driftwood. Eberhard - I have to agree that the Greenland people were lovely, very friendly, gentle and welcoming. As tourism develops maybe things will change but for the moment it remains an idilc destination for those who want to avoid tourist traps. Nanortalik:-
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Hi Bedford. Interestingly although the cruise was from Tilbury about 10% of the guests (80 people) had flown in from Australia to join. I have just senp a couple of days getting restarted on Germania. You may recall that I had previously marked out the sub deck in preparation for planking. I had also marked out the positions of the cut outs for the various deck houses and these were removed with a craft knife. Once the holes were cut out I transferred their positions to the deck beams in preparation for removing them. The beams were subsequently cut away with a razor saw. Additional beams were then added to provide all round support for the deck penetrations. The sub deck was then placed back in position to check that alignment. I will start on the deck planking next.
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It was June when I last posted and haven't built much since. I now have the laptop back from the repair shop - took 8 weeks - not impressed. Fortunately it overlapped with a holiday cruise to Iceland, Greenland, and the Shetland islands. Most of the time was in Greenland which I have to say is absolutely spectacular, lots of mountains and icebergs and very few people. Greenland is half the size of Australia and has a population of 56,000. Thank you all for your visits and comments during my absence. I'll do an update on progress over the next few days. In the mean time I will enjoy catching up on the good work you have all been doing.
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Nice start Patrick. A super yacht that actually looks like a boat - what is the world coming to.
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Thank you Druxey and Valeriy The weather improved which means snail paced progress resumes. I spent some time finishing lining the bulwarks with 1/32 ply. I pre drilled the bulwark penetrations in the ply. I will open the holes in the bulwark planks from the outside and hopefully the pre drilling will leave a clean hole. In any event all holes will have brass insets. I did make a start on the deck. The lines are not an amateur attempt at simulating deck planking. I drew on the grid lines to form a guide for the deck planking which will be applied over the plywood sub-deck. The transverse dimension between centre line and deck edge was transferred from the hull using engineers dividers. I also drew on the positions of the various deck structures. The sub deck is made from 1/32 ply and not 1/16 as previously mentioned. The sad news is my laptop is dead and has gone off to the repairer, fortunately it is still under warranty (I am typing this on tablet). Unfortunately the lap top has all the Germania photos and plans on it. So until it returns progress will be curtailed even further.
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Eberhard The bulwarks on Germania are an extension of the steel hull. I'm not sure of the thickness of steel used but I would guess it is 1/8 to 3/16 inch. At 1:36 scale this equates to about .004" to .006". I think you would agree that this isn't really a feasible thickness for planked wooden construction. The thickness of the bulwark will however be hidden under the rail and as such I'm not too worried about it not being to scale. The hull planking was about .055" thick and it made sense to continue this thickness up to the bulwark. The mahogany planking is much stronger lengthwise (along the grain) and of course the bulwark is several planks deep. I felt that the plywood and the PVA intermediate layer would give me much needed additional strength in the vertical plane. The other benefit of plywood backing is that the inner face of the bulwark is going to be finished smooth and painted white. The plywood gives me a good surface without having to resort to excessive sanding.
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Pat, Druxey, GL, Cortes, Rob, ZBip - thank you all for your comments. After a number of unusual years we seem to have returned to a traditional British summer, rain, wind, floods etc - but fortunately no floods in Sussex. At least the inclement weather has facilitated a few good hours in the workshop. I got round to hacking off the hull from the building board. A fairly quick and painless job with a full sized cross cut saw. You may recall from earlier that I had cut the frames along the deck line leaving about 1/2 inch uncut, I now needed to cut through this 1/2 inch to release the frames. I used 25mm diameter slitting saw blade mounted in my RotaCraft drill (bit like a Dremel) to cut through the retaining web. In the next photo the first up-stand has been removed. The bulwark planks aren't very thick and hence are fragile. Once I had cut through the web I carefully eased the top of the up-stand rearward and the twisting motion broke away the glued frame connection with the bulwark. Again you may recall that I had inserted a piece of paper between the frame and the bulwark planks to form a line of weakness to facilitate removal of the up-stand. In the photo you can see how cleanly the frame came away from the bulwark (white paper residue remains). This technique proved to be a success. I progressed with the removal - a relatively slow job - I need a more powerful rotary tool. In the next photo I have outlined the pre cut deck lines in case my earlier explanation was a bit muddled. It was at about this stage that my daughter paid a visit to the workshop and declared the deck house to be a bit on the large size!!!!!!! I had assumed the bulwarks would be fragile and indeed they were - although a little less so than I had expected. My plan had always been to back the bulwarks with 1/32 ply. Rather than wait for all the frame up-stands to be removed I decided to do the backing in stages. My plan to improve solidity is illustrated in the next sketch. I therefore cleaned up the insides of the bulwarks with sandpaper before gluing on the plywood with PVA glue. The second picture understates the clamps - I actually had one every inch. Some time later i was doing the 3rd and 4th strips of plywood backing - this time showing the clamp forest. I should explain that I pre-drilled the plywood where the bulwark penetrations will be made later. I have virtually completed removal of the up-stands - just 3 left at the bow where I can't get the rotary saw in without damaging the bulwark planks. I need to find a way of removing these. Then I will have to remove the nibs of the up-stands before fairing the frames to take the deck.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
John - The Britannia is only south if you are Scottish - moored in Leith - Edinburgh.- 993 replies
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I think you must practice a lot. They look perfect to me.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat - I have to agree - I live 60 minutes away and have visited many times, I never tire of the experience.- 993 replies
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
KeithAug replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
You did get around Pat - and which was your favourite?- 993 replies
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Bedford, Tom, Gary, Pat - thank you for your kind comments and as ever thank you to everyone for the likes. Despite the wet week I have not got a lot done - constructing a bike box for my son and erecting a fence for my daughter sort of got in the way. Not withstanding this I finished the scroll work - that is until I decide I need more detail. The next photo shows the second scroll parts created and positioned alongside the first to check size. This time I soldered the scroll with the missing item from the first scroll added. And then I corrected the first scroll. I made a bit of extra scroll work and the scrolls were then painted with gold paint to match the rubbing strips. The next step was to pin the scrolls in place using brass dressmakers pins and then glued using CA. Finally I did a bit of touch up with gold / white paint. Tomorrow I hope to remove the hull from the building board.
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