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amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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Strict rules on plank length, shift-patterns etc. were not around when the Revenge was build. Archeological evidence suggest there is quite a margin to fudge
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I thought your metalwork in Varyag was stunning...... this one is even better. Why isthis one on hold? Jan
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I like the red, but as it is quite heavily shaded in with black ,the overall impression is (at least on my screen) a bit on the dark side. Jan
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Hi Anna, Nice going! Whether to use paint, lacquer or oil is largely your own choice. I prefer paint/lacquer (just the normal smallest tin of non-coloured 'histor blanke lak' sold by Gamma ) that way the wwood is protected. I never tried oil. From what I have seen here: oil goes into the wood, lacquer remains on top. So any errors with (too much) glue tend to show up with oil, and lesswith lacquer). Paint is another story: some like the wood to show, and use different types of wood to have variation in colours. Other refer to the ships that are modelled, and that are never unpainted, and therefore use paint to resemble to original as best as possible. Up to youo whichever gang you belong (and you can always turn to the others ). When using paint, you can use the standard stuff from the home deco, but it works easier with modelling paint. tamya and Humbrol sell small tins waterbased enamel/paint in a broad range of colours. Originally for plastics, they stick very well to wood and metal as well. I guess Shamrock still sells them. In al cases, it needs some ahead planning: you have to paint when everything is still reachable. Nothing so annoying a a spot you can see, butnot reach with yourbrush. But on the other hand, glue will not hold on paint, lacquer and oil. So, don't put the stuff on too early. Jan
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New member from Maastricht, The Netherlands!
amateur replied to Anna's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Anna, Welcome to MSW! Jan -
Digital painting. Ideal when science discovers that it was actually red and yellow in stead of black and white. Why thoses small pieces above and under the upper gunports? Jan
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The Groene Draak was a wedding present from the Dutch people to Prinses Beatrix and Prins Claus. Not a very 'royal design', on the contrary, it was based on the rather common flat bottomed working ships there used to be. Jan
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Weird..... I would think the oldfashioned way (just strips) work better. Jan
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Hi, I do not have much experience, but thekits I did, used presawm frames. These were not lasercut, but just machine sawn. The deviations were, to say the least, on the large side. I guess there is a drawing that shows you how it should look. These drawings are not included for nothing..... one of the major issues in the machine cut frames is the centerslot out of the centerline, and/or not of the correct length, resulting in the frame sitting too low or too high. Basic rule measure twice (at least), glue once. with respect to your other question: The kit makers have standardsizes of wood. Planks/dowels etc, notmade to the specs of your model, but the other way round: the size of the model is determined by the size of the wood available. In most cases the wood provided in the kit is the first standard size available above the measure you need. Sometimes that is really close to the final size, sometimes you need some resizing. In the kits I did, mastsizes and available wood did coincide rather well. Jan
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- constitution
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Hi Marcel, Welcome to MSW! Is your Groene Draeck a kit, or based on a drawing? Jan
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Interesting car in the background. never knew that Citroen did this kind of stuff.. Kit, or own modification? Jan
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- tamiya
- King George V
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Actually, the space is still rather large: I can reach all places with my hands, tweezers are needed to belay the lines, but still, I had expected worse. It is mainly because she has no sails: therefore the number of lines is reasonably limited: no bowlines, no buntlines. That is quite a number of lines (and very tiny blocks) less Jan
- 139 replies
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- corel
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As daylight didn't quite return, I took some pics with a flash. Flash and close-up results in suboptimal pics, I know...... I am a bit struggling with the Amati-line: it was sold as 'pure natural', but white glue doesn't have much of an effect on it: when the glue sets, it holds the rope-coils together, but as soon as I apply some white glue to it to fix it onto the deck, the line becomes springy again, and goes all over the place. Difficult to get naural coils in that way: I need to harden the glue completely around the dowel, resulting in coils that are completely circular on the inside, and a bit too high. The hanging coiols are formed in the way Edt showed them with Yound America: again: the rop wants to go in every direction, So I need the coils completely glued down. The Corel stuff (although looking a bit polyester-like (glossy), does handle quite a lot better in forming the ropes and gluing them down. Two pics of the Focsle: The space around the main mast: (yes, there lies a drill-bit, to hold the rope down to its place while the glue sets....) And one of the foot of the mizzen: Perhaps I can do some more today, but without sunlight in my working space, and with rope that doesn't want to do what I want it to do, it is slow going. Jan
- 139 replies
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- corel
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As some family members did claim the table in theliving, I turned to this lady yesterday. I managed to finish all the rigging of the fore, and almost all of the main mat. The clutter of loose ends around the mastfoot is gone, and replaced by some (not soneat looking) rope coils. As soon as prperdaylight returns, I will get you some pics. In the meantime, I turn my ate tion to the mizzenmast. Deviatng from the Coreldrawings was fun, but in the end, I think there is not much added value of that. Increasing the number of sizes of the rigging lines did pay of: Corel used three line sizes, I used 9 different sizes. I should have made a prper administration of what I used where, because remebering over a ten year period didn't quite work: there are some minor inconsistencies. Pics will follow. Jan
- 139 replies
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- corel
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Hi Ab, I still dont know whether I want to go scratch with card. I have seen your buildlogs, and the results from card are great, but I started this ship from a kit because I can't see myself build it just from a drawing..... On the other hand, I very much like the smaller dutch ships, and card may be a way of building those. Jan
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Hi Piet, thanks! Card looks an easy medium, but it has its own peculiarities. learning curve is rather steep de beste wensen voor 2019 voor jou en Gwen! jan
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Hi Cog, not so strange when you realize where the bends in the hull-surface are. Although I did never realize that the strip where lthe screws are is almost flat. I found it an surprisingly easy hull to plank: rahter boxy, and the curves in only one direction. (My first hull was the statenjacht, that one has curves in every direction ) jan
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Gelukkig nieuwjaar!! jan
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Hi Marcus, for tips and tricks you should turn to the buildlog of chris (ccoyle). He did an excelent one for starters in card (torpedoship V108). Danny's buildlogs of large battleships also contain lots of usefull tips and tricks. Jan
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Hi Adrie, thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?) Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber. Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive. The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism. pics are self-explaining. aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness.... Jan
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I guess while she was originally designed as an RC vessel. She needed to give a nice view from a distance, without going into tiny (and easy damaging) detail. Apparently, BB retained this design, even now detailing is easier and cheaper. Jan
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Sometimes thinking results in a solution.... I removed both ends of the catapult (wich were glued using tabes, and therefore stood a bit outside the box, and replaced them with a small rectangle of the spare grey cardboard that is included. This resulted in 1. A more crisp looking end, and 2. Slightly more clearance. both pucs show the result. Tehy show also smething else: the scaldis card does not like 90-degree folds and too much handling: in both cases the coloured top-layer either breaks or comes loose at the corners... Jan
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Small update. today I did the catapult. I had some issues: the thing is a long box-like structure, and the folds were not completely parallel. It needed some persuasion to become straight.... Scaldis made the thing turnaboe (like the gun turrets), using a system of rings and circles to be glued togethet. It works, but I wonder how often I will turn this thing finally, it turned out that it did not fit as it should. I can't get it in its own position: you can see s light ring of white aft of the base. Problem is the deck that sticks slightly too much forward (1.5 mm....). I have to think: paint the deck, or turn it sideways and stick it in the right position, or try to remove the deck.... See...? It touches, while there shoul be a space.... Jan
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Hi Kortes, nicely done. your decision to make a stained glass appearance is good: these ships showed the standing of its owner. Just plain glass would not do The other part is called mastkoker. (Not mast in mastkoker). A heavy piece. Attached to the ships bottom, as it is the connection between hull and mast. Jan
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