amateur
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Just to share a smaal discovery: those things are not pillars under the searchlights.... I was looking at some pics, and realised you can see 'through' the position where that pillar should be. So: there is none. then I checked the original drawing and realised whhat these are: these are the mechanism to turn the lights from the bridgedeck. How they turn the foreard light, I dont know. There is something on that little deck, but again: not a pillar. On this draing youcan also see that the forward windows of the bridge-deck are positioned too low in the kit: their underside should be level with the railing. (They are not....) Jan
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All yesterday's tiny parts (and some more) fitted together on the conning tower the tower needs two additional platforms for the searchlightd (right and left side, 2where the two parts of the tower meet) with a massive column below to give it additional support) I also put the deckhouse in place, with some weight on it to get it dirmly stuck to the deck no time the coming days, so I guess this is all for this week Jan
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I'll try. problem with reprimt is that my scanner/printer does completely change the dolour. Just rolling white paper, and painting afterward is perhaps the easiest way bto go. The funny thing is: even when you get the thing rolled to instructions, the resulting tube is just way too thick. I don't understand the designer: he should have been aware of paper thickness..... Jan
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Little time today, so small parts. funnel was finished, and some small platforms around the conning tower are done (almost). tomorrows funpart: roll to make a column of max 2 milimietre wide at the top, and three and a half at the lower end. fun: the cardbord is almost .3 milimeters thick. suggestions are welcome. Jan
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Tonight Idid some work on the funnel. the result is OK, but the designer of this kit, really should have double-checked his measurements..... Oh, and his instructions theinstruction was 'wrap around the deck' Ok, but the additional width, should that be below, above, or equally devided? I decided for 'below'. Hope I will not regrett in the future of the build. next came the funnel. Although rounded, there is no base-plate provided. No idea how the designer thinks you can either form or attach the thing. I used a copy I made of the deck on which it willbe attached as former. the top-side has holes in it, but I was not sure whether or not you can see the white inside of the funnel. I put a small black paper below the holes. (In the meantime I discovered that this was not necessary) On top of this comes a rim, with a second plate with two holes in it. This rim is way, waytoo large, itdoesn't even touch the funnel when laid on top, and the top-part is justnot fitting. Ineeded to shorten it by almost half a centimeter toget it fitting on the funnel. The fit with the topplate is a bit lousy, but some white glue and black paint will solve that issue. next will be a rather strange contraption around the funnel (added to increase draft of the funnel, as the machines couldn't get to full power) again you can see that the backside print is off by almost 1.5 milimeter in two directions. Again, some paint willbe needed. This part will be curved around a small deck, that willbe fited around the funnel (on the previous pic, you can see the downward sloping line that indicates the position of this deck. And now, just for fun, all parts loosely stacked together. I like the profile of the ship Jan
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Having slightly wider channels is a better solution than having too little space for your shrouds..... So I wouldn't bother the width of the channels on Wasa, Mary Rose or any other ship, as long as it fits yours Jan
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- galleon
- golden hind
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The center of gravity might be an issue for those large ships from the 19th century, but lowering yards has been standard practice long before. almost all dutch paaintings from the period 1600-1700 already show this lowering of the top yards, even though these are so small that the center of gravity would not be an issue.Iguess that the easier and safer handling was more an issue for this practice. jacob Loef, around 1650. French ship, build in the netherlands. Jan
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Silly me, although all your lifts, decks etc, show a waterline model, it wasn't until that last pic I realised that you are going to do a waterlinemodel I like these liners: straight lines, but very elegant. Nothing to do with these modern cattle-transport like cruiseships Jan
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- leviathan
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Are those 200 enough, or will there be a second batch? jan
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Hi Chris, the same 'request' I did: the steam/sail transition.... I'm affraid that we are such a minority that there is no business modell for kits from this period.... Jan
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De Ruyter has been collecting some dust over the summer, but today I finally managed to soend some time on him. First I did the railing on the upper platform again, JSC did some overlength on a not so usefull place: The railing has to disassembled in three parts to get a reasonable fit. Now it is drying, for attaing the toprail needs to be done when the part is really drie (and therefore:rigid) Next was the middle deck house: I did the lower part some time ago, now I did the fullel-base. Whatever I did: the marks on the side wouldn't line up with those on the deck. Also the indent on the forward side of the deck was not large enough: the whole structure therfore stood to far aft. I made it larger, hoping there are no unexpected side-effects of the surgery:) Finally I started the aft deckhouse (the base for the anti-aircraft battery.) The idea is the same as for the other deckhouses: a white core, deck glued on top, walls glued around. Sounds simple, and it works reasonably well (apart for the top-layer of the card that tends to come loose at the edges.... Also, the back wall is a bit on the low side. Hopefully the gun-platform will hide the gap. And now it is drying under some pressure, as it tried to warp..... and finally, todays lesson: always check the back of your scrap card before using it as cutting mat Jan
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Landstrom did great drawings. Without his book I was probably collecting stamps or something..... Jan
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- heller
- soleil royal
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I amgoing to put in the same thoughts I did in some other threads on kits. I understand thefun of building large models, but for many those kits are too large. (I still have Corels Prins Willem on my bench, and the next one has to be smaller too fit in my house) so: why not larger ships in smaller scales: makes them easier tobuild (less instead of more detail), and perhaps a larger group of interested customers. (besides: giving the current PE-technology, you can still put in lot of detail if you want) other thought: why not go for a different period: just an other around 1800 HMS might interestsome, but there is so much more. Why not turn to the sail/staem transition period: still wooden hulles, but definitiely something else. (Ithought of something like the Dutch zMS Bonaire, still in Den Helder) Third: why not turn to smaller ships: Corel had (has?) some mediterranean crafts, but around the German, Dutch, English waters there is quite a lot that is interesting enough to make a kit.... Jan
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I hit the like on your request I will be a regular visitor over here, but as the ship is outside my knowledge-zone, I will not too often enter the discussion. Jan
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- leviathan
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When you know where to look, the stairs on the stern can also be seen on the pic of the hull upside down in drydock. (the one you posted on sept 21st) I guess that I don't tell you anything new by pointing out the pics in the German BundesArchiv? http://www.bild.bundesarchiv.de/cross-search/search/_1539258885/ Jan
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YA-1 Yamaha Motorcycle by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - CARD
amateur replied to Dan Vadas's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Perhaps not up to your own 'personal standards', but as far as I'm concerned you did a very good model again. Jan -
a verynice wheel, but not fit for the Halve Maen, as that one had a whipstaff 😀 Jan
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Why not? From a kit-makers perspective, it is the ideal material: it doesn't warp as plywood does, it is easy to handle and it is cheap. Jan
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Amati did something strange: on their website is a model of HMS Vanguard, but the pics they show are the scale 1:64 HMS Victory ..... https://amatimodel.com/ecomm/I/articolo/B130004 Jan
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Copper Plating
amateur replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It is not a new thought. The smallsvale builders use ainted tissuepaper. (Eg philip reed) Jan -
Hi Markus, not onlyneed the roedes the same weight, they need to have it at the same distance of the centre.... final balancing needs to be done when averything is ready: the roedes van have the same weight but still not be balanced. But it looks like if you will be finished before the rain season sets in. Jan
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When typing the question, I knew youhad thought of the answer before starting the work. thanks for the explanation Jan
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Hi, are you sure over your shell-design? almost all shell like decorations I know from that period do not show the outside of the shell, but the inside, so, the outer rim is curved outward, and not inward. Jan
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- heller
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