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Everything posted by amateur
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Hi Mike, theWitsen books isa good one, but is for a different audience. The seawatch book is for modelbuilders:drawings and description of shiptypes.The Witsenbook (I have the dutch version) is for those who want more background on dutch shipbuilding in the 17th Century. Witsen uses one type (pinas) to describe the principles. So actually, you can read the book as a kind of monograph on a pinas. The dutch version had drawings a a pinas, I don't know whether ornotthey come with the english version.I still didot order the book onmerchant ships, as taxes and transport costs make it arather pricy business..... Jan
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I was a bit surprised to see that the stay is attached to the top, and not to the mast itself. I always thought taht the more modern shipsfollowed the old-time practice to use a collar around the masttop for the stays. Learned something new today Jan
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Hi Greg, Quite often google translate is capable of transforming those Russion captions to something more or less understandable By the way: I very much like the camo on the ships hull. I was wondering whether you will be able to mask the camo on the upper structures, or that you have to spray/paint them just by hand. Jan
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- tamiya
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And for those wondering WHY schiedam has the highest (at least old, because the new turbine thingies are much higher) mills, that is because Schiedam is a city with lots of houses. Mills need steady wind, an no turbulence due to surrounding buildings (or even trees). So that leads to rather high (and completely stone-built) mills. Schiedam mills are not classic water or flour mills, but used for the production of Sjors' favorite drink Jan
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Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece. (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model? Jan
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For what it is worth: I agree with Gwen. Jan
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Are you going to fully rig her, or will this be a 'hull-only' model? jan
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Leaning forward was a good thing to do. each and every time I think it cannot get better. Each and every time you prove the opposite. I have run out for superlatives...... jan
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And the model should be firmly bolted to whatever, to prevent it from tipping over again Jan
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Don't show the ruler of your hand, and people would happily believe that it is a fair sized model of a horse. I like the horse very much. Hope you can make a fitting horseman. Jan
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Hi Piet, Working on the display, but still tweaking on the ship. I thought you said you were finished apart from the case I agree with Mark: thinning out did add. What will be next? Jan
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And don’t be too distracted by the difference between the words: 17th century dutch wasn’t as standardized as modern Dutch. you can find boyer, boeyer, boeier, boijer, boeijer, and anything in beteeen. ship types changing happens also in other instances, the most famous example is jacht: duyken is labelled as jacht. Not quite the ship we expect nowadays speaking about jachts
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Glad you did not forget us. Paper or wood, please share it with us, Jan
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Got it now! thanks for the pics. For a moment I thought it had an open stern, but it is closed. Planking at the stern will be interesting. The hull is quite rounded at the stern, especilaaly just undr the wales. Jan
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I dont understand what is going on at the stern. can you give a shot of the drawing? Jan
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Rope-Stropped Blocks for Boom Vang
amateur replied to Julie Mo's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I know that almost al Dutch inland water ships have iron stropping at these blocks. Never seen a pic showing rope-stropping. Jan -
Caution! When is a model NOT the ship?
amateur replied to The Recusant's topic in Wood ship model kits
Not really new news. Happens quite often that the kit does not show the eal stuff, or just gives some fake history. Jan -
Two remarks on that: These sculptings would need flexible molds, as there is detail on the sides of them, and there are open spaces under the scrollwork. The castings would require severe detailing afterwards. secondly: part of the atmosphere of this model is in the high degree of consistency, but also in the slight variations between the almost equal parts. I guess the model looses some of its charm by using castings. Jan
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It was one of the difficult parts: the blocks are not heany enough to get the line sag naturally. I did not use the corel-thread, but something else (I think it was Amati), and far thinner than the Corel-line. I started from the bowsprit, next the running part to which the spider blocks are attached (without tying that one off to the stay). Next the 'spider part' working inside out, using clove-hitches to tie them to the stay. next I have attached a small weight (paper clip) to the spider blocks, and have been tweaking endlessly with the running part to get thetension right. As soon as it looked okay, I have more or less fixed the whole thing, by brushing it with a diluted white glue. It took me at least four or five tries to get the thing more or less good, without overtensioning it, and having the stay pulled outward. And yes, I have been rerigging the stay-block to get more tension onthe stay... Both blocks are almost touchi g now, as Ineeded quite a lot of tension in the stay to have the whole looking OK. Problem was also that my spritmast tended to go backward, as I tensioned the lines. Delicate balance indeed. Jan
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And we'll be here Or anywhere else where your building-activity pops up. Gwen still not asking for Musi? Jan
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