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amateur

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  1. Sometimes thinking results in a solution.... I removed both ends of the catapult (wich were glued using tabes, and therefore stood a bit outside the box, and replaced them with a small rectangle of the spare grey cardboard that is included. This resulted in 1. A more crisp looking end, and 2. Slightly more clearance. both pucs show the result. Tehy show also smething else: the scaldis card does not like 90-degree folds and too much handling: in both cases the coloured top-layer either breaks or comes loose at the corners... Jan
  2. Small update. today I did the catapult. I had some issues: the thing is a long box-like structure, and the folds were not completely parallel. It needed some persuasion to become straight.... Scaldis made the thing turnaboe (like the gun turrets), using a system of rings and circles to be glued togethet. It works, but I wonder how often I will turn this thing finally, it turned out that it did not fit as it should. I can't get it in its own position: you can see s light ring of white aft of the base. Problem is the deck that sticks slightly too much forward (1.5 mm....). I have to think: paint the deck, or turn it sideways and stick it in the right position, or try to remove the deck.... See...? It touches, while there shoul be a space.... Jan
  3. Hi Kortes, nicely done. your decision to make a stained glass appearance is good: these ships showed the standing of its owner. Just plain glass would not do The other part is called mastkoker. (Not mast in mastkoker). A heavy piece. Attached to the ships bottom, as it is the connection between hull and mast. Jan
  4. Nope, my first one enetered only in 1994 (not an early adaptor ) Jan
  5. Lasercutted plywood..... that is cheating that ought to be unstable, uneven, uncuttable wood Looks good so far. I started mine somewhere around 1985, that was not only before internet, but before a pc at home. Jan
  6. And when you all thnk you deserve an update after the second day of christmas, I have to disappoint you. I have a third one running in the background, and that one got slightly more attention this day. (Almost finished, apart from the railings and some nasty little bollards) Jan
  7. How many will there be in this display? I think the Maya die Biene version should be included....;) Jan
  8. Hi Kortes, I guess you have seen the original bars on Sperwer? that pattern is very distinctive, more than the rather basic pattern you have used. Did you simplify on purpose? jan
  9. Yep, that is a typhoon. But nice example of how enormous these subs are. Jan
  10. I use the guterman stuff for bindings an seizings etc. Nice colors, but it needs ca-glue or some kind of paint to fixate the knots. Pva will not hold. Is the unraveling the result of how the thread itself is laid (left in stead of right), or is it the result of the material itself? I ask because when using it as serving-material the direction of the winding mattered. Jan
  11. I thought there was slightly moreyellow ochre in her new colour, but this isreally'hello kitty' rosa jan
  12. Dont forget the navigation lights in the masts, (white lights, not completelyy sure where to place them) jan
  13. I always liked the last rode zee more than the zwarte zee an rotterdam.... But, as there is no kit of that one, I turned to Smit Rotterdam. I will follow the build with interest, to see what you make out of her. Don’t forget to insure her when finished jan
  14. Ah, that brings back memories. Somewhere, under loads ofdust, there is a Smit in myhouse. It was the old version: lots of low quality wood (solitting in all directions, except for the correct one ). Nonetheless I derived a lot of pleasure building it. Jan
  15. I warned you: the size of the parts is getting smaller and smaller. So here is the update of two afternoons of cutting, rolling (ugly words because of the carpet monster), and glueing. Using a flash when taking pictures at close distance with a cellphone, makes the not-so-good even worse All in all I am not too unhappy. Some miscellaneous goodies awiting a bit of grey paint to cover the white. some really small stuff (winches and the bearing ring for the torpedotubes) and when youthink life can't get worse, you encounter this: which turned into this (took me the better part of an hour) again, some grey needed to do some covering up. Not now, as the card is still a bit unstable due to the water in the glue. (No, I am not going to use CA for this: far too small too handle for me. I need safe glue) and some present state pics. Fore deck with whinch and water breaker Cabin with stearing gear, lights and support struts. And the last one: all the little stuff installed (except for that range finder) flash highlights the white sides, even when they are harly visible to the eye in normal daylight circumstances. And now my eyes need something easy Jan
  16. Hi Greg, every time, I am amazed by the optical illusion you create with your paintgun.... I would easily beleive that those ribs are really there. Jan
  17. But a square hull would never do Although: most working ships tend to be rather box-like: the main frame of a tjalk, fluit or aak, all tend to be rather square. and it is a mis-conception that dutch calvinists did not like beautifull (and expensive) stuff. Quite a lot of expensive houses around..... jan
  18. Yes, but also the wrecks found in the Netherlands show rather artistic use of timber. Regulated building didn't exist: as long as it was watertight and floated, it was OK. Jan
  19. I thought the radius of that brass strip would be larger. The quality of your metalwork is great. question: you said the metalwork will be left visible. Does that also holdfor those casements? And if so: how are yougoing to polish them without damaging your superb hull finish? Jan
  20. Like Chris ( @ccoyle) I am going to use the papershipwright railing-template. The question is: which thread to use... too thick is probably a bit unsightly, but too thin will (At least, I think) have problems to get it glued in such a way that it becomes stable... second question too think: white, and apply glue, or go to the gutermannshop, and find something in the more-or-less correct grey..... Jan
  21. But the spacing in the deadeyes should also fit the placing of the gunporst below: you need the chains ending between the porst, not in or above..... Jan
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