amateur
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Everything posted by amateur
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I use the guterman stuff for bindings an seizings etc. Nice colors, but it needs ca-glue or some kind of paint to fixate the knots. Pva will not hold. Is the unraveling the result of how the thread itself is laid (left in stead of right), or is it the result of the material itself? I ask because when using it as serving-material the direction of the winding mattered. Jan
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I thought there was slightly moreyellow ochre in her new colour, but this isreally'hello kitty' rosa jan
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Dont forget the navigation lights in the masts, (white lights, not completelyy sure where to place them) jan
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I always liked the last rode zee more than the zwarte zee an rotterdam.... But, as there is no kit of that one, I turned to Smit Rotterdam. I will follow the build with interest, to see what you make out of her. Don’t forget to insure her when finished jan
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Why so many? do you give them for christmas present? jan
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Ah, that brings back memories. Somewhere, under loads ofdust, there is a Smit in myhouse. It was the old version: lots of low quality wood (solitting in all directions, except for the correct one ). Nonetheless I derived a lot of pleasure building it. Jan
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I warned you: the size of the parts is getting smaller and smaller. So here is the update of two afternoons of cutting, rolling (ugly words because of the carpet monster), and glueing. Using a flash when taking pictures at close distance with a cellphone, makes the not-so-good even worse All in all I am not too unhappy. Some miscellaneous goodies awiting a bit of grey paint to cover the white. some really small stuff (winches and the bearing ring for the torpedotubes) and when youthink life can't get worse, you encounter this: which turned into this (took me the better part of an hour) again, some grey needed to do some covering up. Not now, as the card is still a bit unstable due to the water in the glue. (No, I am not going to use CA for this: far too small too handle for me. I need safe glue) and some present state pics. Fore deck with whinch and water breaker Cabin with stearing gear, lights and support struts. And the last one: all the little stuff installed (except for that range finder) flash highlights the white sides, even when they are harly visible to the eye in normal daylight circumstances. And now my eyes need something easy Jan
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Hi Greg, every time, I am amazed by the optical illusion you create with your paintgun.... I would easily beleive that those ribs are really there. Jan
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But a square hull would never do Although: most working ships tend to be rather box-like: the main frame of a tjalk, fluit or aak, all tend to be rather square. and it is a mis-conception that dutch calvinists did not like beautifull (and expensive) stuff. Quite a lot of expensive houses around..... jan
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Vasa deck shift
amateur replied to BLACK VIKING's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, but also the wrecks found in the Netherlands show rather artistic use of timber. Regulated building didn't exist: as long as it was watertight and floated, it was OK. Jan -
I thought the radius of that brass strip would be larger. The quality of your metalwork is great. question: you said the metalwork will be left visible. Does that also holdfor those casements? And if so: how are yougoing to polish them without damaging your superb hull finish? Jan
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Like Chris ( @ccoyle) I am going to use the papershipwright railing-template. The question is: which thread to use... too thick is probably a bit unsightly, but too thin will (At least, I think) have problems to get it glued in such a way that it becomes stable... second question too think: white, and apply glue, or go to the gutermannshop, and find something in the more-or-less correct grey..... Jan
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Error in kit and asking for advise
amateur replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
But the spacing in the deadeyes should also fit the placing of the gunporst below: you need the chains ending between the porst, not in or above..... Jan -
Error in kit and asking for advise
amateur replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
To be honest, in this stage of the build, I would ignore the error. Had I discovered it earlier, I wouldhave checked the position of the canons. Kitmakers want to overdothenumber ofguns. In the Prins Willemby Corel, thenumber ofguns is almost double theone that the ship actually had..... The most forward shrould should be almost in line with the mast, taking it far backwards is also an error, wich will attract more attention than the one you want to solve. Jan -
Beautiful rudder! question: you are not using black paint, but black wood instead. How are you going to apply the distinctive white striping? Jan
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Maritiemdigitaal is the portal used by the dutch maritime museums to their digital database. The quality of the pictures differs between the museums, and there is no way to order high quality copies of the pictures/foto's/drawings shown. But as the museums have invested in this system,they have no own database/ordering system (the fries museum being an exception, but even there is no download-option/ordering option) Jan
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Hi Kortes, nice tiller. When the tiller is completely to the left or right, does it stay clear from the bulkhead? Very ofthe the tiller has a very subtle curve upwwrd, just to make sure that it does not touch the bulkhead. Do you also plan to add the eyesbolts to attach the flagpole to the rudder? Jan
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@Marcus, the only one I am aware of is the navy-archive, that has almost all pre-wwII ships on line (in very high definition, and lots of detail drawings. next to that is maritiem-digitaal, but most of that is low-resolution, small sized (like the one of the leeboard, posted above). Apart from that, I do not know of anything..... Jan
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What do you mean? The foto is exactly like the drawing: the bolt is just below the mid-line of the leeboard, there is only one difference: the number of planks used: 8 in the drawing, 7 in the leeboard of the sperwer. the curvature of the leeboard is too small to be seen in the picture. Jan
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Btw make sure the bolt is in the correct place: it is slightly below the centerline of the leenord, not on the centerline. this image shows a drawing of a portside leeboard of a friese boeier (drawing downloaded from maritiem digitaal), newer than Sperwer, but valud for almost all boeiers, i guess) Jan
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Although a boeier that does not shine like a mirror is considered to be ‘a bit neglected’ . modelling standards and ship-standards clearly no not coincide are the leeboards flat, or do they have a curved profile? jan
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Completely in Dutch, but some mice pics of the ship https://www.ssrp.nl/stamboek/schepen/sperwer (there is a nice drawing of the rudder, with a sperwer on top) Jan
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Wooden hoops almost never show up in these dutch veseels. wefalk: we refferee to different things: boeiers are not build on a vertical keel, always on a flat bottom plank. but I thought you meant that the ships was build on a broad bottom board, with a protective strip in the middle of that board. that - to my knwledge - was never done with boeiers, they have a bottomplank that is thicker than the normal hull planks. the rope to secure the mainsail to the mast has two versions: one single rope, or -as is seen in one of the pics above - a series of single, diagonally placed ropes, alsays with these klootjes to minimize friction and the wear on the rope. Jan
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Hi Wefalck, are ypu sure on the bottom plank? It is (as far as i interpret the drawing a fairly thick planck, with a rabbet that holds the first planking strake. finny thing on these ‘keel’s is the strong tapering on both ends. jan
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