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amateur
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Angling that part can be disrupting..... I should have done the same:cutting and glueing. I didn’t dare to do the steps jan
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Admiralty model query
amateur replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Bob, Although I admire your knowledge and your equipment (guess you also use it for models, bur couldn’t find anything of that work here at msw), I wonder whether you make things more difficult than necessary: you can draw ideal lines, but I guess (never tried myself) that slightly less ideal would also work. The final fairing is done when frames are set up in the model so the use of a simple pencil and ruler and a basic set of curves should do for a beginner. I have even seen an admiralty type of model without lofting, using just station lines. Also Mccaffery uses such a method for his small-scale models: he cleverly builds up a layered block, and shapes it as if it were a solid hull modell. Requires some thinking and preparation, but it works without any curves or dawing let alone drafting. Jan -
Problem with electrical tools: sometimes they tend to take too much in too short a period. just doing it by hand takes more time, but I find control a bit easier. Jan
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Hi Grandpa, I guess that very much depends on the scale and period you are building. wooden cleats can be done in various ways: miling a strip of wood into the outer profile you need, and sawing off cleats in the width you need. or just forming them one by one froma strip that has the correct width and thickness. metal cleats, I never did one, but I guess that there are also various ways.... Jan
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Thanks for the explanation!
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Wow, it takes some time to realize the size of this ship. Can you tell how you made the sails? they lookvery convincing. Jan
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You need quite a notch to get a strong connection. So large that it is visible (at least it was in mine.) using a parrel and a drop of glue was enough for my yards Jan
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Hi John, that is deceptive: he has quite a number if things to do. Railing stanchions for instance. But, you’re right: less work than rigging ratlines for a three-masted man-of-war. Jan
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Mamoli went down, not because of poor design, but because of fire: their productionfacility burned down. I guess that the square-business holds for almost all pre-laser kits....Mine (corel) wasn't much better. What I don't like at the Mamolis is that their research was lousy. Kits could have been much better representation of the ship without too much effort..... Jan
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Here
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Doris did Now I need to think: where..... Jan
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HiVossie, it is even weirder: the botteloef is not a bowsprit in a normal way. Therefore, next to this botteloef (and its extension 'opsteker'), these ships often had a separate boom as bowsprit. the botteloef is intended to have the fore sail forward as much as possible, as that improves sailing qualities. (And that is also the reason that some owners had the botteloef extended using such an opsteker: getting the fore sail even further forward. ) Jan
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As Carl already said: funnel looks better now. could you do a pic with a referenceobject for size? I am a bit lost when I look at those parts. You call them big guns, They look huge, but I suspect that is pure delusion. Jan
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Strict rules on plank length, shift-patterns etc. were not around when the Revenge was build. Archeological evidence suggest there is quite a margin to fudge
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I thought your metalwork in Varyag was stunning...... this one is even better. Why isthis one on hold? Jan
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I like the red, but as it is quite heavily shaded in with black ,the overall impression is (at least on my screen) a bit on the dark side. Jan
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Hi Anna, Nice going! Whether to use paint, lacquer or oil is largely your own choice. I prefer paint/lacquer (just the normal smallest tin of non-coloured 'histor blanke lak' sold by Gamma ) that way the wwood is protected. I never tried oil. From what I have seen here: oil goes into the wood, lacquer remains on top. So any errors with (too much) glue tend to show up with oil, and lesswith lacquer). Paint is another story: some like the wood to show, and use different types of wood to have variation in colours. Other refer to the ships that are modelled, and that are never unpainted, and therefore use paint to resemble to original as best as possible. Up to youo whichever gang you belong (and you can always turn to the others ). When using paint, you can use the standard stuff from the home deco, but it works easier with modelling paint. tamya and Humbrol sell small tins waterbased enamel/paint in a broad range of colours. Originally for plastics, they stick very well to wood and metal as well. I guess Shamrock still sells them. In al cases, it needs some ahead planning: you have to paint when everything is still reachable. Nothing so annoying a a spot you can see, butnot reach with yourbrush. But on the other hand, glue will not hold on paint, lacquer and oil. So, don't put the stuff on too early. Jan
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New member from Maastricht, The Netherlands!
amateur replied to Anna's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Anna, Welcome to MSW! Jan -
Digital painting. Ideal when science discovers that it was actually red and yellow in stead of black and white. Why thoses small pieces above and under the upper gunports? Jan
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The Groene Draak was a wedding present from the Dutch people to Prinses Beatrix and Prins Claus. Not a very 'royal design', on the contrary, it was based on the rather common flat bottomed working ships there used to be. Jan
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Weird..... I would think the oldfashioned way (just strips) work better. Jan
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Hi, I do not have much experience, but thekits I did, used presawm frames. These were not lasercut, but just machine sawn. The deviations were, to say the least, on the large side. I guess there is a drawing that shows you how it should look. These drawings are not included for nothing..... one of the major issues in the machine cut frames is the centerslot out of the centerline, and/or not of the correct length, resulting in the frame sitting too low or too high. Basic rule measure twice (at least), glue once. with respect to your other question: The kit makers have standardsizes of wood. Planks/dowels etc, notmade to the specs of your model, but the other way round: the size of the model is determined by the size of the wood available. In most cases the wood provided in the kit is the first standard size available above the measure you need. Sometimes that is really close to the final size, sometimes you need some resizing. In the kits I did, mastsizes and available wood did coincide rather well. Jan
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