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amateur

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  1. However, that proces is far more difficult in a bluff-bowed ship. I don’t know how it is wirhbthis ship, but in my PW the distance between keel and deck was largest somewhere in the feont part: the frame length is comarable, but the sheer is quitestrong, i needed an additional plank there. With second planking. I choose to let the planks run slightly lower, and added a stealer as top plank (hope you understand....) Jan
  2. Hi Adrie, Question: where is your build-log of the Ruyter to be found ? (some way or other I'm interested ) Jan
  3. And greetings from the other half of the low countries Jan
  4. Hi Marcus, those sailsare only used at ‘low wind’ conditios. Sometimes just two out of four are used (always on opposite vanes). At higher windspeed no sails are used to keep the mill at reasonable speed. you might have the same speed problem when you put your mill outside with sails rigged. (partially) furled seems to be an option Jan
  5. The problem is: the plywood needs predrilling (otherwise the splitting risk is large, and becomes larger by using a heavier hammer). On the other hand: predrilling will give unsightly holes in your planking that will not close without using filler. You may try sharp, thin pins in stead of nails. Usually works better than nails. I liked using clamps, like shown here: Jan
  6. Using violence is usually not a good idea. using clamps is sometimes a much better idea. Second question: which parts do need pins while the glue dries? Most of the time, parts should hold their place without pinning them. Jan
  7. the klapmuts is top protect the wooden beam of the kruiwerk: long heavy wood is expensive, so you need to be protection against water entering. (the kruiwerk is too important and too expensive to be hampered with rot) Jan
  8. That is not a bentinck shrould, that is a catharpin. a bentink is a real shrould going all the way down to eiter the deck, or the opposite railing. I vant find any decent pictures on the net, but I guess at this scale, just roved through the ring will do. i guess in real life they are attached by a eye-splice. But that is a mere, completely uneducated, guess. Jan
  9. Hi Dan, that two-in-one strategy works out surprisingly well (so far: no idea how you are going to split-paint masts and flagpoles...) Jan
  10. Yesterday I did the searchlight platforms (almost) After some considerations, and as suggested by a rather experienced cardboard builder on a german card-forum, I decided to do some surgery: first the inner column, and next the second layer on the bottom end. the column turned out slightly too thick, but acceptable. The second layer went OK, but I think the whole part is slightly too long. Some surgery needed on final fitting... Next I startedthe second platform. It was not untilthis picture that I discovered a small mistake: again some surgery is needed. Only question remaining: on which side ? Time will tell Jan
  11. Did you see the models build by Ab Hoving in the gallery? He did a number of these ships in cardboard using plastic adhesive (like Doris) Jan
  12. I keep telling myself "no this in't a 1:1 ship" I still don't believe myself Jan
  13. There is quite an interesting technique in the buildlog of Dafi’s Victory
  14. Wow, I missed this one so far. You tab-gluing-speed is unbelievable Before long you will need more tabs and parts to fulfill your needs. There are some very, very demanding models around (not ships, but cars) These models for instance would keep you at least two weeks from the street: http://e63papermodel.altervista.org/download.html (only edge gluing, no tabs at all. They have some unbelievable detail) Jan
  15. No. No need to have a very strong rope, as soos as the mill faces the wind, there are almost no forces that will turn it als, when turned put of the wind, the wind is blowimg sideways or from behind, again not very strong forces. but there is indeed a chain to prevent turning. (Some mills have the safety system sewhere inside in the head.) jan
  16. THe pennants, I dont know, the kruipalen are vital in the turning of the mill to the wind (or out of the wind) attached to the mill is the kruiwerk: some very heavy beams that are fixed to the kap. At the bottom of the kruiwerk, is an axle wich a large wheel. Attached to that axle is a rope (or chain, doesn't matter too much, as long as it is strong enough). To turn the mill to the wind, one end of the rope is fixed to one of the kruipalen, and then the miller starts turnong that large wheel, so the rope is wou d up on that axle. This turns the mill. So these kruipalen are important, and they are rather heavy, relatively long poles, driven i to the ground. Jan
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