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kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Marc: Be careful with Dullcoat. One coat does the job. Multiple coats don't make things duller - they actually build up making the surface smooth - and shiny. Of course, if you use a very thin coat via the airbrush, another coat might be OK, but if you use the stuff from a rattle can stop at one coat. Kurt- 85 replies
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- yacht mary
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Case for my Ropewalk
kurtvd19 replied to Geoff Matson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks good Geoff. I could get that entered in the art gallery it looks so good. Kurt -
Chuck You can always try out the look of the "bumpy" mast and if you don't like it make it round and smooth. The problem that I see is that it might look to observers that you just did a poor job of the mast as it might not look as good at scale as it does full size. But, you are building the model for yourself not the observer who might not appreciate the authenticity of the bumpy mast. Share your efforts on this as you are ahead of me on the build and I am curious as to how it will look to scale. Take care, Kurt
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casting metal parts including cannon
kurtvd19 replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Sorry not my parts so I can't share any secrets about them (as I didn't make them) except to say that they were done in RTV molds and are destined to be pieces in a kit. A friend shared the photo of the initial run of parts. However, I can say with certainty that this quality of parts is able to be done in pewter and RTV molds as I have others on hand cast by another fiend that are just as good. Kurt -
casting metal parts including cannon
kurtvd19 replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds Kurt
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Looking real good Ryland. Kurt
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Andy: I would call this a Semi-Scratch build with all the changes and additions you are making. Heck. you could call it IRVING and it would still be a great job. Kurt
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- stadacona
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Scott: This tool or one like it makes working with photo etch so much easier and precise that I wouldn't work without it. Kurt
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Andy: The boom looks great! I was going to suggest that you cut duplicate parts for each piece for the other side when you fit the first side but I got busy with a restoration customer and forgot to post. I always find it helpful to do this when I am building paired pieces. It's always easier - in my opinion - to cut duplicate parts and assemble the twin pieces at the same time. Cutting duplicate parts means not having to measure the first piece to duplicate it later and doing the assembly of the two parts sequentially avoids forgetting which part went on first or something else that can turn out to be a problem later. This will be a great model when completed. Take care, Kurt
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Andy: The ship is owned by US Gypsum, the name is Gypsum Integrity, and you are correct that it's not on the Lakes. It is currently off the coast of Sierra Leone near Freetown. I just did a Google and located it using Marine Traffic. It was built in 2009. I was told it was built in Brazil as were the models. The models came in through NOLA and were then shipped to Chicago and someplace in Europe with the European model making it one piece. Very heavy stone bases and glass cases. I set the model on a table in my shop on top of a sheet and then took the case off and watched small pieces fall out. Didn't lose any pieces. As far as the Brazil build I was told this by the same guy who said it operated on the Lakes so I am not positive. I like what you are doing with the build and conversion of the model. Kurt
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Andy: I envy you working in the larger scale. I have attached a photo of a self unloader boom that was part of a builders model of a gypsum carrier that I repaired. Looking behind the remounted boom you might note the absence of the superstructure. It, the boom and all sorts of stuff was in need of repair when the superstructure came loose during shipping of the model from S. America to Chicago. The model was in approximately 1/100 scale and some of the photo etched railings were almost tied in knots from bouncing around in the case - all were replaced as it's impossible to straighten small photo etched rails. The boat operates on the Great Lakes and I was able to work from photos of the full size boat as well as the other twin model that made it unharmed from S. America to Europe. The parts came loose because the "professional" model shop painted the Plexiglass deck and then glued to superstructure down to the painted deck and the paint didn't hold. The Plexiglass wasn't even sanded to make a good surface for the paint - but I didn't contract to fix anything that wasn't broken. Wish I had taken a photo of the model before I started the repairs. Kurt
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I have wanted something like these calipers but didn't know this tool actually existed. After seeing the original post I jumped onto eBay this morning and got a great set for $25. Place sent a notice that they have shipped already! Kurt
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Dan Al's carries the Badger RR colors - same identical paint as the Marine paints. If you ever need to know the exact match between RR and Marine let me know - I have the master list. All the Marine colors except 6 or 7 have a RR match. Comes out of the same 5 gallon container. Kurt
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Dan: I agree with Chuck. I don't think you would be happy with any of the Model Expo paints compared to Badger - you know my bias - but I think the ME paints are horrible compared to any other paint. Kurt
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Tom: The trick to making round holes in styrene is to use a brad point drill bit in a variable speed drill at a slow speed. The brad point bit has a sharp center point and the cutting edge of the drill bit is at the outer edge of the bit. The initial contact with the surface is with the point and then the outer edges making a circle around the point that is cut before the inner surface of the drill bit touches the plastic. Makes for a real neat hole without danger of grabbing the plastic as an ordinary bit can do. Use a slow speed on the drill and very thin plastic can be cut easily as well as thicker resins. Just don't ever use these bits on anything other than wood or plastic. Kurt
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Richard: The advice I gave originally would apply to this as well as anything ship related. The better the underlying surface is cleaned and any gloss removed, the better the acrylic will adhere. Maybe a very fine wire brush can be used to get into the nooks - it has to be very fine as you don't want to have to sand the surface. I have some fine wire brushes that I think came from a jeweler supply but i think I saw some similar brushes from Model Expo or Micro Mark. But if the surface is matte or dull now this probably isn't needed. Can't tell from the photo if the highlights are just from the light or due to having a gloss surface but I suspect the lights. Kurt
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Richard: As long as the underlying paint is clean and not a gloss finish the acrylic should adhere just fine. Clean as Andy suggested and lay on very light coats of the acrylic until complete coverage is achieved. Kurt
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Very nice job Mike. The Fly looks good too. Kurt
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I have been using a micro-chuck from UMM-USA I can chuck it into my full size drill press or into my dental drill - std 3/32 dia shaft Very good concentricity. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_161&products_id=3338
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Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
kurtvd19 replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a garage sale drafting table that I use to hold plans near my main modeling bench. It's easy to move out of the way or closer to the bench. For small sized plans I use it as shown in the upper right photo. For larger plans I attach the plan sheet(s) to a piece of foam core illustration board and then Set the foam core onto the small ledge on the bottom of the drafting table and use a spring clamp to hold it in place as shown in the lower. I can move it closer to the bench as shown in the upper left photo. By putting the plans on foam core boards I can have multiple sets of plans able to be used as I usually have at least two projects going at a time. There are also small tables meant for lap top computers that could be adapted in a similar manner using the foam core pieces. Kurt PS:The hand on the table is a Halloween hand that will become part of a "Don't touch the models" plaque with a butcher's cleaver and cutting board for our next model show.
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Dan: Great work as usual and a very interesting subject. Why the 1/36 scale? Was it to arrive at a model of a specific size for the museum's display? Take care, Kurt
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Still time to sign up for the conference. The Wednesday tour is filled but room for others at everything else. The model show looks good this year with 20+ models on exhibit. Kurt
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Harvey: Make up an oversize laminated piece from two or more strips and knock off the corners of the square piece and then round it off. A laminated piece will resist warping as long as you glue it up straight. Best to use a straight grained wood like Poplar like Geoff used. A single piece of wood can always warp over time where a laminated piece will not. Kurt
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There is still time to sign up to attend this year's conference but the seating for both tours is filling up fast. Registration forms are on the NRG web site - www.thenrg.org We would hate to see some not be able to attend because they waited too long to register but seats are limited.
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Re: airbrush moisture trap
kurtvd19 replied to rtropp's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Richard: I would have suggested you try the Badger Acrylic Modelflex Marine Paints rather than the Air-Opaque paints - as the marine paints come in the colors you will probably wind up using on boats/ships. But you have the idea - get proficient with one paint and then you can switch to another having figured out what happens when you change ratios or settings. The nice thing about the Marine paints is that no thinning is needed. Shake and spray. Let us know how things go. Kurt
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