Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

Landlocked123

Gone, but not forgotten
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    449

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Landlocked123

  1. Landlocked123
    See last post. The beer is kicking in already!!!!!......and George is thinking I might have a hard time snatching a seat.....HAH. J.
  2. Landlocked123
    Mark, You never cease to crack me up! Best, John
  3. Landlocked123
    Danny, The post isn't even up for 24 hours and already I'm in the "Standing Room" section!!!!! It's ok though, I'll wait until one of the other miscreants, has to visit the loo from all the beer they've been swilling and steal their seat.
  4. Landlocked123
    Hi All, Greetings from the great NRG meeting in Mystic, CT.. I'm heading to bed and thought I would check in with MSW. I've followed Mark's trials and tribulations with this machine in the early posts and just caught up right now. The big question I have is; WHY BOTHER!!!!!!!!!!!!! It seems pretty obvious that this technology is not ready for the home ship builder at this price point. Buy a top of the line scroll saw and use all the time and effort you put into this machine, tweaking and sending it back and forth across the country (and ocean) and learn to master their saw. Unless you need to manufacture 100 identical parts what's the point? If you are in business and need to manufacture a 100 identical parts, step up and buy the right machine. There is a cost to being an "early adopter" and to me this much aggrivation doesn't seem worth it. Best, John
  5. Landlocked123
    Well guys, I found out about using AMEX reward points for buying stuff on Amazon and it turns out I've got a pile of them "burning a hole in my pocket". So I ordered the sander and higher powered transformer. Let's see how it works out. I will post a review after I get a chance to use it. Unfortunately I've become a complete junkie for Amazon Prime. Ordered it tonight and it will be here on Tuesday. On one hand it's great, on the other I don't see how local merchants can compete. I can sit in my family room, with my IPad and buy almost anything with no shipping and it's here in a day or two. Well that's progress I guess. One step forward, two steps back. Best, John
  6. Landlocked123
    I see what you guys are saying, but for 15 years I've used it for air brushing with no problems. I'm all for cheap where it works! Best, John
  7. Landlocked123
    Hi Jaeger, About 15 years ago I bought a PoterCable Pancake Air Compressor for use to power various finishing nailers and staplers while doing some home improvement. I paid about $100 for it which is about where you can buy one today. It has integrated regulators which can be used at pressures 5-25 psi and more than you would likely use for airbrushing. The great thing is that for model painting I can use it for 3-4 days straight without the compressor kicking in. I don't use an in-line water trap which I probably should but my workshop is in a very dry basement and I've not had any problems with water in the line. Relative to the price of compressors designed for air brushing it' a steal. As far as I'm concerned compressed air is compressed air. Maybe I've just been lucky, but maybe this is a case where the "industrial tool" is a lot cheaper than the "specialty tool" for a lot less money. Best, John
  8. Landlocked123
    Hi All, I'm thinking of getting a Proxxon 12v Pen Sander. From what I've read, it appears to get good reviews. Apparently, it needs a transformer to operate. I believe there are two to choose from. A model NG 2 and 5. The 5 is supposedly more powerful and has a speed adjustment. I would really like to hear some feedback from anyone familiar with the tool. I can get the sander and basic transformer for about $70, with the larger it would come to $98. Is it worth ponying up the extra $ for the big transformer? Does anyone else make a similar tool which maybe better? For close to a hundred bucks, is it a must-have tool? I look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks. Best, John
  9. Landlocked123
    Nice painting. There's not much more to say. Best, John
  10. Landlocked123
    Hi Danny, You've "wowed" me again, as I'm getting accustomed to!! I've watched you build the micro to the major and you pull it off flawlessly every time. Now it's time to really step up and tackle a 1/2 scale HMS Agamemnon. If you start now, you'll be able to sail it over for the next NRG conference. Best, John
  11. Landlocked123
    Hi Mark, I just saw yor reply and finally stopped laughing enough to type this. I guess at some point it's worth going with the "nuclear" option. I went that way today after PVA and CA failed. I'll see tomorrow if it was a good idea or not. The biggest problem I continue to face is trying to complete my build where I would love to start over. It turns out I need to re-paint the hull, and rigg/install deck furniture. I know I'm not that far but I hate seeing all the subpar work. Anyway, I'm going to bull through it and finish. Best, John
  12. Landlocked123
    Hi Duff, Good to see you yesterday. I just found this log and I'm looking forward to following this build. I've been reading on MSW that BlueJacket was getting ready to release the kit I'm quite pleased you will doing an OOB. Best, John
  13. Landlocked123
    Hi Bill, I'm going to start rigging my schooner in the next week or so. I too, was planning on using the beeswax and turpentine mixture on BlueJacket rope. My question is; Will using the mixture affect my using either diluted PVA or CA to fix the rigging where necessary? Any and all advice is welcome and appreciated. Best, John PS Do you think I will need to stretch the rope after I apply the beeswax mixture? Thank. J.
  14. Landlocked123
    Hi Guys, I know that Isopropyl Alcohol can loosen PVAs and that Acetone will work on CA, but is there anything that performs a similar function on epoxy? Thanks. Best, John
  15. Landlocked123
    Hi David, I've basically done that. But my I've used 4" pieces of random dowels I've got lying around. I keep the various sized needles in a small water bottle with some water and lead shot in the bottom to keep them clean between uses ( the lead shot helps keep the bottle from getting knocked over). I keep the old brushes to apply glue in various ways. If they get mucked up, I just toss them. John
  16. Landlocked123
    Hi Patrick, I'm looking forward to watching this build as well. Especially for this type of craft I would expect an inaugural cruise with lots and lots of babes in micro-micro bikinis! Best, John
  17. Landlocked123
    Hi Danny, I can honestly say that I've never had too much interest in ships in a bottle until I saw you are doing one, especially this one. I can also honestly say that I've had much greater interest in emptying the bottles. Anyway, I will be watching and learning (as usual). Best, John
  18. Landlocked123
    Hi Jim, I think the whole thing is very cool and it definitely has a real 19th century feel to it. If is not too crass, may I ask what you expect will be the final cost? Thanks, John
  19. Landlocked123
    Hi, I use acetone pretty regularly. I keep it in a sealed jar, open it to put in parts, take them out with tweezers and put then in water. Ocasionally some splashes out on my hands. I work in a large basement with no exhaust. Exactly how close am I to killing myself? I always thought the risks involved were as a carcinogen and that given my age and limited exposure it was no big deal. Any hard information would be appreciated. Best, John
  20. Landlocked123
    Hi Danny, I guess "pretty chuffed" is Aussie for pretty damned proud and happy. If it's not you should be!!!!!!!! As you know I loved this build, not only did you give me something to aspire to, but the technical aspects of what you've shown and the way in which you showed (taught) so many processes is priceless to me. I can't wait to follow your next build. Best of everything, John
  21. Landlocked123
    Hi Mark, Where did you find a dado washer? I have something like that for my 10' table saw (I eventually switched to stacked carbide). I looked for a dado washer for my Dremel 580 and never found anything. Do you think it could be something you grind yourself? My guess it would take a huge amount of "trial and error" to cut a washer which would cut an exact width. Best, John
  22. Landlocked123
    Hi Gaetan, Thanks for the help. I've ordered the bitumen and assuming that US Customs doesn't assume it some mythical black fairy dust (highly probable) I should receive it soon. I will try adding variable amounts to my bees wax and turpentine mixture and will post the results. Thanks again, John ps Looking at the photos above, do you plan on rigging the Le Fleuron? If so, how will you get it out of your shop? J. pps I do hope you're planning to rig it. It would be absolutely magnificent. It's already magnificent, but fully rigged it would be mind blowing. J. ppps I saw what you said about the Tung oil, but doesn't it start polymerizing as soon as it's out of the can. Besides, I believe the polymerizing generate significant heat. I would think that with the bee's wax and turps you would need to be very careful. You mentioned looking for a "richer look", Given that the vast majority of the ship is cherry, I would think you would get a "richer look" every passing day for the next two hundred years. J.
  23. Landlocked123
    Hi All, With my very limited experience, I know that if you heat steel to red hot and let it cool naturally, it will be softened or annealed. I also know that if you re-heat it to red hot and quench in either oil or water, you can re-harden it. I've always annealed brass by heating red hot and then immediately quenching in water. It seems to me that to a certain extent the brass tends to get "work" hardened, like copper. But it there a way to reverse the annealing process. Thanks, John
  24. Landlocked123
    Hi Gaetan, I too, have been using a bees wax and turpentine mixture for finishing wood and I love the finish it produces. I really like the the idea of adding asphaltum or bitumen to bring the color up to a more rich brown shade. I've been searching the internet to find either bitumen or asplaltum with limited success. I've had no luck with bitumen and my searches for asphaltum have only returned a color for oil paint. Is it the oil paint I'm looking for? My wife thinks asphaltum is used in etching. When I search etching supplie I find asplaltum, but it seems like it is no longer available. I don't know if it's the case of the U.S. govt. protecting me from myself or what. Is the oil paint something that will work? Thanks.. Best, John Gautan, I've continued to search since I penned the above. I have found a site that offers asphaltum in both a liquid and power form.. Which do I want? Thanks. J.
  25. Landlocked123
    Hi Ed, I want to add my congratulations!!!! Will you be attending the NRG in October? Will you be bringing books to sell with you? I have Vol. I of Naiad but I would love to pick up Vol. II and Young America. I hope to see you there. Best, John

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...