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Landlocked123

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Everything posted by Landlocked123

  1. Landlocked123
    Hi, You have a beautiful build here. I use a simple home made tool for precisely placing tiny drops of CA. You take a needle and snip off about 1/2 the eye leaving you with a small “V” shaped end. Stick the pointy end into a dowel for a handle. I then place a drop of CA onto a piece of foil and dip the tool into the drop. The “V” will pick up some glue and when you place it where you want the glue to go, capillary action draws it from the needle. When the end gets clogged with glue, take a lighter to it and it burns right off. Best, John
  2. Landlocked123
    Thanks Welflack, I’ve been able to make shackles down to about 3.5mm. Would you please share with me your technique to make them as small as 1.5mm? Best, John
  3. Landlocked123
    Thanks again. J.
  4. Landlocked123
    Thanks Ben, I’ve about the use of Fiebigs in the past. How do you keep from bleeding during application. I would imagine that the 4 coats Watco will prevent any future bleeding Thanks, John
  5. Landlocked123
    Ken, Please add my kudos as well. She’s looking really nice. Best, John
  6. Landlocked123
    Hi Ben, I’ve been lurking throughout your build and think that the Pegasus is turning out to a beautiful and fantastic model ship, especially given the trials and tribulations you’ve gone through. The Wales look great and your idea of the holly and boxwood really does make them “pop”. Are the wales ebony or did you dye or paint them in some way. Would you please share your process, in the picture they look a deep, dark, and even black. Thanks for sharing this with us. Best, John
  7. Landlocked123
    Marsalv, I don’t know how I have missed this log for so long, but I found it today and read the whole thing from the beginning. It is easily one of the finest builds on MSW. I can’t offer praise higher than that which you received so far, but I do wish to add my thanks for sharing it with us. Best, John
  8. Landlocked123
    Hi, I’m nearing the finish line on my Bluejacket Smuggler (1877 gaff rigged schooner) and have started on the running rigging. The kit supplies iron stropped blocks made from cast Brittania metal. I’ve cleaned up the casting flash, drilled out the beckets and sheaves, and have most of them painted the suggested white. I’ll be using Syren rope in sizes .008, .012 and .018. I don’t know what kind of knot I should use to tie the blocks to the lines. I was thinking of using the old taut-line hitch from my Boy Scout days since it would be secure and not very bulky. I would appreciate any suggestions you may have of a more appropriate knot. Thanks. Best, John
  9. Landlocked123
    Hi Gents, Russ turned me on to silver soldering a few years ago. I use a pen style butane tourch and paste solder that comes premixed in a syringe. And Russ is right (above) that silver soldering becomes second nature. There are few benefits that I find worth mentioning. First, there is essentially no wait time for the iron to heat up, one click and I have heat. Second, with the paste solder/flux I can apply pin head sized amount precisely where I want with a toothpick. The joint flashes over in a second or two. Finally, it takes a higher temperature to remelt the soldered joint, so it is quite easy to add a nearby additional joint without affecting the first. I will still use Tix occasionally, but generally only if I’m soldering very close to wood or Britannia metal. Best, John ps. I use silver solder mostly for convenience, not strength. J.
  10. Landlocked123
    Hi EJ, She’s really looking great. Did you use any stain or that beautiful color just poly over the walnut? Thanks. Best, John
  11. Landlocked123
    Hi Danny, she’s really coming along. BTW, I love the dazzle camouflage. Somewhere along the way in the last 40 years, I was able to pick up some contemporary posters of warships with dazzle. If I can find them, I’ll snap a few pics and add the here. Just let me know if it’s something you would be OK with. best, john
  12. Landlocked123
    Gaetan- You have taken both ship modeling and model photography to a new level. I doubt that many of us, if any, will reach the bar you set in either sphere. You have my kudos, bravo!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 Best, John
  13. Landlocked123
    Well, its fantastic work and just beautiful! J.
  14. Landlocked123
    Hi- I agree that Byrnes is the definite way way to go.........if you can afford it. I was able to pick up a Dremel saw and it’s pretty adequate under most applications. I have to say however, that I picked up a bunch of add-ons on eBay for the Dremel. I upgraded the fence, the cross cut square, the drive belt (cogged) and got a sliding table. All in, I’m about $175. It’s a lot less than a Bynes Saw. I would still rather have Jim’s saw. But I did get Jim’s thickness sander and when I mill wood on the Dremel (slightly oversized) and run it through the sander, I’m pretty happy. It takes a while to set up for milling. It’s a trade off of time for money, time I got. One positive about the Dremel, and I would hang on to it even if I got a Jim Saw, is that it will make angle cuts. Best, John
  15. Landlocked123
    Hi Nils, She’s coming along beautifully. I think the stern piece is especially attractive. From the photo, it looks like you framed the plank with a much lighter wood. If that is the case, I would be very interested in hearing how you did it. Thanks, John
  16. Landlocked123
    Hi Keith, I’ve thought about it and you’re most likely right. The babes will go to the fat billionaires on the power yatchs. But with a little bit of creative marketing we could make it work. The crux of the problem is finding 3” tall babes. As you know I’ve been following along since the beginning and plain and simply, you have created a master work. Thanks for sharing it. Kudos and best regards, John
  17. Landlocked123
    Thanks Guys, The advice and videos were very helpful. I truly appreciate the assistance. Best, John
  18. Landlocked123
    Thanks Derek, I’ll give a shot tomorrow when I don’t have 2 snootfuls of single malt under my belt. Does it take a lot of force? I also noticed that the slot for the blade is about 1/3 the depth of the handle. So which side the cutting edge blade go on, the 1/3 side or the 2/3 side? Thanks, John
  19. Landlocked123
    Very interesting picture. My only question is, where are the girls in bikinis (minimum). I mean after all, if your going to have a yacht like that, in place that the picture would suggest, without partially unclad young women, what’s the point? 🤔😎 Best, John
  20. Landlocked123
    I just posted most of this in “What have you received today”, but I need help and thought it would be a good idea to post here as well. I picked up 100 Swann-Morton no. 11 scalpel blades. They came with handle, a plastic box that is somehow going help to removing blades and a pair of hemostats. There were no instructions on how to install blades and everything I tried seemed to be too hard and clumsy. All this was exacerbated by total fear that I was going to cut off a finger. I would truly appreciate any help on how to use this thing. Thanks. Best. John
  21. Landlocked123
    Hi Danny, Well, you are virtuoso in wood and now card. All else being equal, which do you prefer? Best, John
  22. Landlocked123
    I totally agree with Mark. My solution to the metalwork issue was going to be that we all move in with Xken (whose book is right now opened in my lap). Today, I also received a copy of “The Complete Metalsmith”. It is a gem, thanks to those who recommended it. Best, John
  23. Landlocked123
    Hi Chris, I think it might be time for an updated picture of the twins.😊 i would imagine they’re starting to look like miniature human beings at this point! best, john
  24. Landlocked123
    Hi Nils, is is the the type of craft which would have been used by th Barbary pirates of the late 18th and early 19th century? Thanks, John
  25. Landlocked123
    HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🍾🍾🍾🍾🍾🍾

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