Landlocked123

Hi Guys, Pardon my ignorance, but what is a LCVP? Thanks. Best, John

Hi Pat, i think you might be thinking about the soldering table below. I also received one this Christmas and it’s built like a tank. Best, John https://contenti.com/jewelry-soldering-supplies/jewelry-soldering-tools/soldering-boards/rotating-soldering-table

Very, very nice. A really elegant and stylish way to set off the Altair. Best, John

Thanks guys....I appreciate your input. J.

Hi, I’m nearing the finish line on my Bluejacket Smuggler (1877 gaff rigged schooner) and the only remaining task is tying the ratlines. There only 4 sets of shrouds comprised of two lines each so the job is not particularly daunting. Where I am completely hung up is on the type of rope for the lines. I used the Bluejacket supplied black line for the all the standing rigging and Syren’s light brown rope for all the running rigging. Ratlines on this period ship were not tarred but in almost every model I see the builder uses black line. I know it’s my build and I can go however I wish, but I’ve tied samples of both and am still completely flummoxed. I need some help to push me off the fence, Best, John

A few follow-ups on my previous post: Roger - Testors Thinners for their Model Master Enamels or lacquer thinner work just fine with Floquil. As I mentioned, unused bottles of Froquil generally bring $7-10 on eBay. If you have unopened bottles leave then that way until you need them. Generally, highly separated bottles can be reconstituted, especially if unopened. Sometimes when the pigments are very coagulated, it takes some time. Once opened, thoroughly clean the paper liner in the cap, the lip of the bottle, and the threads (both in he cap and jar) with lacquer thinner. Screw the cap on snuggly and store upright in a cool dark place. I keep mine in desk drawer in my basement workshop. I have found that he best place to find new old stock is in the vanishing number of Mom and Pop hobby shops in small towns. I live in New England and whenever I find myself in a old town, I check to see if there are any hobby shops around. I’ve been lucky enough to find old Floquil display racks with bottles marked with 1970s prices which the proprietor will usually honor. Jack (as usual) is right on point with the MicroMark paint stirrer. It works great when reblending separated paint. It’s also easy to clean. After stirring, I stick it in a small jar of lacquer thinner, give it a spin for a second, and wipe dry with a paper towel. Finally, a word of caution, do not make the mistake of thinking that the same color paint from different bottles will be the same color. This is especially true with 15-25 year old paint. Please don’t ask how I learned this😖.. Best, John

Gaeten, Your attention to the highly technical details of digital photography are quite evident in your results. Best, John

Well done Doc, What material are you using for the windows lights in the stern. They look great. Best, John

Mike, I think it looks great! Best, John

Michael, I agree with you on the “white transparency” issue on the the flags made from tissue paper. But I have found that when mounted and viewed from a distance of 1+ feet it seems to go away. To me, the realistic scale thickness, ability to create life like furls and the wide availability of flags to get from the web compels me to utilize Chuck’s technique. I am also going to try Brian’s idea of first giving the paper a thin wash of white, probably using an airbrush. John

Hi Michael, On Chuck’s build log for the Cheerful (pg.33) he goes over a technique for printing flags on tissue paper using an inkjet printer. I have been experimenting with it and have gotten some very nice results. Best, John

Nils, she is really coming along beautifully. I look forward to your updates. Best, John

Hi Ed, Your work continues to set a new paradigm for model ship building. However as a relative newbie can you share some “universal” pointers on the general progression on how to approach the rigging on square sailed ships. I’m working on a simple 19th century fishing schooner and I’ve virtually had to everything twice to deal with crossed lines etc.. Thinking about rigging YA, makes my head explode! Thanks, Best, John

Ben- You should be in the Bronx rather than Queensbury.........you continue to knock it out of the park. Best, John

Hi Keith, I love the blade chart. Thanks. J.

EJ - the windows are coming out great. Thanks for sharing the “how to”. Best, John

Thanks!!!! That would be great. Best, J.

One word Danny, WOW!!!!!! Best, John

Hi EJ, The windows look great. I don’t know if you have been documenting them as you build. If you have, and can find the time, I would love it if you could put together one of your mini-practicums. I’ll be starting my next build soon and I’m planning on doing a bit of bashing on the MS Armed Virginia Sloop. One of the problem areas often pointed out on the various build logs are the stern windows. I think I have an idea of how to deal with them and it will involve scratch building the windows. Thanks Best, John

The photo with the penny is amazing! Nothing more to say. Best, John

Hi Chris, I haven’t tried this, but I intend to check it out shortly. I think I saw the idea a while back on Ed’s Young America but I’m not sure. The idea is to get some dark brown powdered tempra paint, the kind we used to use in kindergarten. Mix the powder with your PVA until you get the shade you like and use the glue as you would normally. Again, I can’t fully endorse the idea until I try it, but it sounds interesting. Best, John

Hi- I recently bought the Swann-Morton scalpel package on Amazon (below). I received 100 no. 11 blades, a blade remover, a handle, and most importantly, needle pliers (similar to a hemostat) for handling the insertion of the blades. I’m quite happy with the purchase. Best, John https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNW2D9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazing work! I would love to hear how you built the doors with the individual panes. Thanks. Best, John

Absolutely beautiful. There’s nothing else to say but to thank you for sharing this with us. Best, John

Thank you. Best, J.