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Chuck

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  1. Chuck
    No nothing at all. Its just the black acrylic paint and the red. No fixative or finish was applied. I imagine that some wipe on poly sometimes hits the painted areas but for the most part its just the paint. Thanks for the kind words.
  2. Chuck
    No those are carronades but its incorrect. They should be long 12s. Chuck
  3. Chuck
    I understand...but its the best answer I have...if we only had that time machine... Take a look.
  4. Chuck
    NoI dont really except what I have examined on contemporary models. They must have used these for the guns because there are several examples showing long Guns crammed in there. The other interesting thing is that on the original draft for Cheerful they actually mention that the windlass was moved back about 2ft. to make more room for working the 12 pounder long guns. So they either had really short breech lines or they were rarely used. There seems to be plenty of room on the starboard side and its only really the port side which is really tight. I also think that the carriages for these guns was both higher and shorter as well as the guns being short 12's. Chuck
  5. Chuck
    Making the bowsprit step with pawls for the windlass. I found some time to do this today. Just a quick note to say that when you dont have a mill or a drill press, think in terms of layers for ways to make parts. If you have have a mill, making the mortises for the pawls would be easy enough. But if you dont have one, always think about how an item could be made in layers like these. You dont need a laser cutter to do this. It would be simple enough to cut out each layer. This is a great way to go especially if the item is to be painted like these. You would never see the layers after its painted. Once assembled, the top profile of each was files into shape. Much like the timberheads. The pawld have a tiny hole that corresponds with the outside layers. After painting the uprights red the pawls were inserted and held in position with some 24 gauge wire. Small washers were pushed onto the outside to give a more finished look. The wire was snipped off standing proud of the washers. Bolts were simulated along the standards (knees) in the usual fashion with 24 gauge wire as well. The cross beams are only temporary. The bowsprit needs to be made and inserted first. That is why they are so long now. But you can get a good idea of what it will look like. The cross beams will be much much shorter and painted red also. But not until after the bowsprit is made and positioned. I will do that this week sometime. This will be a mini-kit and should be available....before anyone asks....
  6. Chuck
    That would be easy enough to add in the kit.....what I can do is finish off three top strakes and take some photos, then add the garboard and take more. It can be an option for folks. They can also just add the garboard and two strakes along the sheer like the one conteporary model. This way, everyone can choose which they prefer. Chuck
  7. Chuck
    Thanks Yes I have been doing my own laser cutting for about 1 1/2 years now. I couldnt possibly make the parts in the amounts needed without having my own laser cutter. Its a fun machine to have in the shop. Chuck
  8. Chuck
    Just a quick update on the Queen Anne Style Barge. Note that the planking on a Barge of this period was less than 1" thick. That is very thin stuff. I am using 1/32" Cherry to laser cut the planking. Its actually thicker than it should be at this scale but a very nice thickness to work with. After making many blocks today, I decided to try and fit my first plank on the model. The planks will be pre-spiled. In addition, a laser etched reference line will be on the clinker strakes. There are only three strakes on the barge like the contemporary models I showed. Only the bottom two planks are lapstrake or clinker. This will be a great introduction to this type of planking. You will bevel the strake from the reference line to the edge in preparation for the plank above it(or as the model is upside down, below it). It will be beveled ahead of time after you gently remove the laser char from its edges. Then you bend the plank just a bit as shown. Using an emery board works great for this. It fits really good and no forcing is needed to put it in position. Just a little glue on each frame....working two or three at a time from the bow towards the stern. The forward end of the strake is beveled to sit nicely against the stem and rabbet. I will put the sister plank on the other side and then the two aft sections of this same strake. That will really make the model solid and safe. So I want to get this done ASAP. The last two strakes will follow shortly after. Also examine this image of a similar barge. The reason why I chose cherry was also for its color. The contemporary model below is basically the same color and I am very pleased with the cherry so far. The barge below also has only two strakes from the sheer. I will be going with three so you can tell its clinker planked. But I wont be adding the garboard. There were many different variations on contemporary examples. I will be going with three strakes like this barge below. Chuck
  9. Chuck
    I actually switched the fixture over to LED bulbs. The bulb isnt glass. It is plastic and these bulbs are so much brighter. So it worked out in the end. And the hop was due for a good cleaning anyway. So no harm done other than the loss of a day. Yes there were some choice words going through my head the entire time I was cleaning up all of those tiny shards. Chuck
  10. Chuck
    Spent the afternoon fixin her all up! Its as good as new. Now to move forward tomorrow with actual new progress. Chuck
  11. Chuck
    Funny Story....... A very large black wasp flew into my shop today. Seeing as I am such a genius I started swatting the wasp with a dish towel. Not being very precise with my weapon of choice, I struck the overhead fluorescent light with two.... four foot long bulbs in it. Both bulbs proceeded to fall in slow motion. The Cheerful model was directly below them. You know how the rest of the story goes. The bulbs smashed into literally billions of tiny shards of glass. A direct hit. Cheerful did take some considerable battle damage. But nothing I cant fix in a day or two. I am very happy to also report, that the same blow that inflicted damage to my model actually did send that wasp to an early, untimely and hopefully quite unpleasant end. I have ninja-like skills with a dish towel. Chuck
  12. Chuck
    Greg.....One more thing. That is a very good point about working with Tite-Bond or Yellow glue. Its something I do instinctively without any thought. I too, keep a cup of water around at all times with a disposable brush. I use it to clear any of the glue that squeezes out between the joints before it dries. Its little things like that I always forget to include in the manual.....rest assured I will add that to the first installment right away. Its the only way I can keep my joinery clean and crisp. Thanks for the reminder.
  13. Chuck
    Thanks Greg. It depends. It depends if its a slotted joint or just two pieces butt against each other. If one piece is being inserted into a notch or a slot then it doesnt really matter much and the laser char wont interfere with the joint much. But when there is no such interlocking mechanism then yes, I do like to clear away the laser char. There is one other exception....when the piece that needs to be cleared of laser char is too fragile or its fit was made precise while designing it. Then I dont risk it. Maybe a cursory pass with some fine sandpaper. But its shape and fragility must be taken under consideration.
  14. Chuck
    That looks great!!! Well Done
  15. Chuck
    Thank you for saying....
  16. Chuck
    Looking fantastic.
  17. Chuck
    Because much is being discussed about how kits and other projects are produced, I thought I would continue to share bits about my philosophy as I develop these two new kits. As I mentioned in one of those other topics, It is an absolute must to have a good set of plans and a good set of instructions. Not everyone is at the same level of skill. What might be second nature for some is not so clear to others. There are so many details and build sequences that Cad Drawings and pans can NOT convey effectively on their own. I am not talking about writing a book....nothing like a 300 page thing that so many desire....for heaven's sake....buy a book on the subject in addition to the kit. Instead, just enough to guide folks along but obviously more than the usual kit instructions we have all grown to hate so much. As the first installment gets off the ground for this kit, I write the instructions for it. Then I pass them along to the individual building the prototype with me. If this person has a hard time following what I have written and cant build the model, then I failed. But luckily I get tons of feedback from the prototype builder telling me what he would need or what he didnt understand. Or If I should make wording changes or add additional pictures or drawings to make it clearer. It is priceless to have this feedback....I think its a huge disservice to just produce the project and release it without this feedback. It doesnt cost anything because the folks I use are my dear friends and they actually get to build a model for free. They probably would have bought it afterwards anyway...so why not be the first and build it alongside me. Not only do they tell me if the pieces dont fit properly....but the feedback on the instructions and plans will ultimately help all of the people building it too. Here is a look at the level of detail I am talking about....I cant write a book...because you would have to pay me the price of an actual book. I cant write 50 pages on the history of Barges....these are just instructions, but very thorough instructions none-the-less. Hopefully anyway!!! PDF below...unedited and before getting any feedback. They will certainly change before the project is released. Shallop one.pdf
  18. Chuck
    Thanks I wont be changing the scale because too much is involved. But I will be making some in boxwood or pear as a custom order. Having said that, these will be much more $ of course. I will figure out the costs when the project is completed.
  19. Chuck
    I have no timeline. I dont like to rush my projects as you guys probably noticed. So whenever it gets done it gets done. I wish I could give you a better answer but its just the way I work. I am a very slow builder and designer. No installments will be released this time until after the entire model is completed. It shouldnt take long!!! LOL Famous last words right?
  20. Chuck
    Yes...no worries. There will be plenty of extras as most of you know I try to include for parts like this. In addition, after I complete my own carvings, I will cast them and offer a complete resin package as an aftermarket kit option. This is for the folks who wouldnt want to even try it...BUT I WOULD STRONGLY ENCOURAGE EVERYONE TO AT LEAST TRY IT. You might just surprise yourself.
  21. Chuck
    Yes....but not as easy as just clicking a button. Which most would assume. After resizing the templates in the drafting software (the easy part)....the laser settings will then have to be adjusted to reflect the proper speed and power settings for the smaller thickness in wood. Depending on the parts, they also may need some tweaking to adjust for the larger kerf size in relation to the smaller part size (ie the carved decorations). Plus the five or six more elaborate carvings are being done as resin castings. I cant expect folks to scratch carve those so masters will need to be made for those. So there are plenty of hours of work needed to do it correctly for the best results. But once its done the first time, its done and all parts can easily be run as quickly as the 1/2" scale versions. But its still weeks of work. After all that there are other considerations. This design concept works well for 1/2" scale. BUT Lets consider that the frames are 1/16" thick at this scale. Reducing them to 1/4" scale means using 1/32" thick stock. Or at a minimum, going with 3/64" for strength. I think using 1/32" thick frames for this design construction method would not work as the frames would be much to fragile. So once you start altering those thicknesses...it means more alterations for the parts templates and it just snowballs from there. To simply reduce everything by 50% without thinking it through would be a disaster. I know some other folks think its easily done and have talked about it in other threads. In my opinion its not as simple and a bit fantasy actually. Depending on the subject of course. Decisions would need to be made that may reduce its historical accuracy for MFG purposes or depending on the scale, a entirely different construction concept might be a better way to go. Lots to consider. I hate to be the fantasy killer to all those folks discussing the possibilities of kit production in that other topic. But its a little naive in my opinion. For most subjects anyway.
  22. Chuck
    Nope. Just the kit. Either in installments or as one complete unit. The plans will of course be in the first installment along with the frames, keel parts and build-board. Chuck
  23. Chuck
    Thank you guys. Yes an intermediate builder can do this. Those are the folks this project is directed towards. As far as making the kit in parts.....I am torn. It will either be a complete kit....OR A complete kit sold in three installments. I am trying to work all that out as the prototype gets underway. I am waiting on planking material as we speak. Once it arrives it will get into high gear. Chuck
  24. Chuck
    Just wanted to give all of you a more detailed look at what the new Queen Anne Style Royal Barge project will look like. You are looking at the preliminary draft for the plans. A PDF is below for a more detailed look. I am not worried about theft because there are no laser cut parts or templates shown on this sheet. I removed those. As the project and prototype gets built, more details will be added to aid the builder. Including those parts which were removed as theft prevention. This is why it is so important to have someone else build the project before its released. They will give me feedback on what additional views and parts would be helpful to include on the plan sheets. And when its completed they should be quite detailed....even though I think what is shown is probably already detailed enough for most folks. As you can see. This sheet includes many views of the model at various stages of its construction so those elements can be more easily seen. This includes a planking expansion on the bottom of the sheet. With the plans fully developed all that is left to do is build the prototypes....two of them. Make adjustments...Update and embellish the plans where needed...write the instructions.....and then start on packaging and production. This will include making all laser cut parts, cast decorations...and wood decorations. The model will be nearly 19" long and 3 1/2" wide at 1/2" scale. It will very closely resemble the contemporary model pictured. Let me know if you have any questions. Chuck queenannebargeplanmsw.pdf
  25. Chuck
    The sizes arent based on looks and instead based on factual data and tables....whatever you decide to go with its fine...but it will be much too large historically speaking. Again its just my opinion....but rather than just try three sizes of blocks and 4 sizes of rope for the tackles willy-nilly. It is best to refer to the historical tables and contemporary sources for rope sizes. Basically they used 6" blocks...give or take, depending on the size of the gun. And the appropriate sized rope for a 6" block which in my opinion is around 1" to maybe 1 1/4". I suppose you could maybe go as large as .018 rope for the tackles but its pushing it to the higher end of the spectrum.

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