Chuck

Nicely done. That is some perfect rope.

Watch the first video part again... Note how at the end I use a small clamp to stop it from unwinding if you build up so much tension it starts to untwist. Usually only for really big ropes. Note how far I walked the head stock.....quite a bit for a short rope. That is a lot of twists. Dont be afraid to twist those strands a lot. and the second video just to complete the process. Remember that I am using linen/cotton thread in the videos. If you are using poly.....tie a knot on both ends and bake your rope in the oven as I detailed in this topic below.

Nice try. Keep at it. But yes you need to probably increase twists on both ends quite a bit. Probably by a multiple of 5 or more. Dont be afraid to really twist it. Those examples are much to loose. For comparison ...look at this rope. The lay should almost be at 90 degrees to the rope before you cut it free. Then harden the rope and it will relax a bit more and up with the correct angle and tighter lay. If built properly the head stock will not (should not) rotate when you start laying up the rope. If it does, that means your gears are way too loose. If in the rare event that you build up so much tension in the head stock eye hooks that it starts unwinding. You should either tighten the gears more or place a clamp on one eye hooks to prevent it from spinning. But that should not happen unless you are making huge rope with a ton of tension being built up. I can tell from your photos however, that you are under-twisting by a whole lot.......a whole lot.

That is really coming together. I hope to see it again in person at the CT show in April.

Outstanding!!!

Nicely done

Lovely!!! 😄

You can ignore a person but not a topic. I dont think you can ignore a topic but let me look into. Doubtful.

That looks very good. You might try adding a small 1/4” wide 1/32” strip on the inboard side. Between the two frames where that small hole is. Just to support it. Then add some elmers fuller to the outboard side. Hopefully the color will match ok but with careful painting it could be hidden almost entirely. thats a shame you sanded through it. Otherwise

Hows progress coming along.

Nicely done.

Nicely done!!!

It depends on the wood. A harder wood like boxwood I just paint directly on the surface after sanding it very very smooth. Softer wood like cedar, is sanded as well but then I apply a coat of sanding sealer. I also still sand between many coats of thinned paint. I sand the paint and if I get to bare wood I have gone too far. I use 600 grit or even finer grit at that stage.

12 for sure.....but if one of them gets too long I may stretch it to lucky number 13. And then after that a sep. mini kit for the 30 ft barge and its display on the model.

Thank You....A few fairleads along the inboard bulwarks are next up along with eyebolts and metal work. Lastly the 8 guns on the qdeck will be added to complete chapter 10.

I would do exactly what Ryland suggests. Just add another strip along the sheer. Just cut a thin strip and run it along the entire edge of the top strake. Then sand it down to match the correct sheer as best you can. Its looking lovely by the way. Nicely planked.

If you remember, I used the provided laser cut template to mark the height of the stern frames. Then I cut them down most of the way with sharp chisels and a #11 blade. I followed that up with sanding them down to their final height. The first part of the cap added was the laser cut center section. It is 1/16" thick. This piece has a gentle curve to it when viewed from above to follow the curve of the transom. This piece was centered and glued in position. I also cleaned up both ends to make them neat and tidy to accept the pieces we will glue into position next. You can see the center section glued into place below. In addition the first outer section is glued on as well. Note how it is much wider than the center length. This will allow you to draw and MATCH the curve of the transom when viewed from above. I am not really stressing the sanding of char here because that will be taken care of once you reduce those outer pieces. You will be reducing them to the same width while maintaining the same graceful curve. Once you finish both sides, you can sand it all with a fine grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then paint the whole thing black. Sanding made a lot of dust so remember to clean that all away before you start painting. You want the best quality painted surface as possible. Here are some pictures after the cap was completed and painted. This really ties everything together well.

I am cutting more chapter 9 parts right now. Just wanted to let you guys know. I am cutting cherry version right now. I have also decided to use some yellow cedar sheets for the cherry chapter. Mainly for the rails and cap rail which will be painted black anyway. It doesnt matter with the color or wood type. If you absolutely want cherry for all parts then send me a PM but I think you will appreciate the flexibility of the cedar for the forecastle caprail and fancy rail. These are just the 3/64" thick parts.....All other parts will be cherry. I have already made about 36 chapter 9 sets in yellow cedar but they all sold out and once I make some cherry versions first, I will make more yellow cedar chapter sets right after. They should be ready next week at some point. Even though folks are months and maybe more than a year away from needing this chapter, it sells out right away anyway. So please watch the store this week if you are getting close to needing this chapter. Some folks just really want it sitting on the shelf in their shop rather than wait to buy it when they need it. So keep in eye out if you will be needing it soon.

Good work....no need to rush and proceeding carefully will pay off in multiples later on.

Really nicely done!!

I think it looks fantastic. You should continue with it as is. Take what you have learned and move on to another subject to prevent yourself from losing interest. Possibly Spedwell? But your model really does look lovely. So little of the lower deck will be seen. Be sure to simulate a light seam on the fcastle and qdeck planking. It will look just fantastic.

I have no ide really but my guess would be 1:48 just like the model.

Beautiful job on it too!!

Very nice. Those are so hard to make by hand like that.

Absolutely beautiful…you did such an excellent job on the Cheerful. I hope you enjoyed the project.