CDW

Many years ago, a good friend in Maryland gave me this 1:350 Trumpeter USS Essex along with a ton of photo etch and a reference book. I intended to build the model long before now but life has its way of changing our plans. Well, now seems to be the time, so I will give this baby a start and see what I can do. 

I have added a Pontos detail set to augment the photo etch I already have and have the Anatomy of a Ship, The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid, on its way from Amazon.

Here are some photos of what I'm starting with.

Greg

The model is looking just sensational. Details are crisp and sharp.

What set do the eyelets for tying off your rigging come with? Seems like those would come in handy for so many different models in 1:350 scale.

You know that Dragon just came out with a 1941 version of this ship, whereas this one is how she was configured in 1943 just before she was sunk. Last time they produced the 1943 version, they didn't produce any more and let the stocks deplete. I am tempted to buy a 1941 version now as in a year or two, there might not be any more available and who knows when they will release it again.

It seems some companies have found value in making their product scarce. Sounds weird I know, but that's what some are doing. Unlike older days when Revell, AMT, Lindberg, Hawk, Airfix, and Monogram would release and rerelease their kits for ages. They are still rereleasing kits I bought when I was a kid more than 50 years ago.

The heck of it is, they even copy their own people's work, not just those from foreign countries. They are an equal opportunity offender. 

What I have seen is many small companies can't afford to fight it. Even some of the larger companies become worn down trying to fight it. Especially hit hard are high tech gadgets of different sorts, like R/C equipment. 

Your painting looks great. The ship's frame is going together very straight and true. I like the model a lot so far.

I saw a tutorial on the net on how to make a photo box with light diffusers. I am going to try making one then take the time to read up on my camera to learn the settings for taking better pictures. After that, will try to get some better photos of this old girl, Scharnhorst.

A few pieces of railing here and there, a few small parts here and there, a little touch up paint, and maybe some rigging thread/flags. That's about all that's left to do before I call this one finished.

I built the Danmark by Billings and what a magnificent model. Oil based paints tend to yellow much quicker than water based paints. I actually used a slightly thinned down white semi gloss house paint, which has chemicals in it to help from yellowing. I built this model about 15 years ago and sold it a few years ago to a west india shipping company based in Fort Lauderdale Florida and the white was a bright a white as the day I painted it. But it also helps to have it in a display case.

 

If I were you, I would if possible put some paint stripper on the hull and take off the paint and start over, if not possible I would at the very least sand down as much of the paint as you can, put on a nice primer and then a coat of paint. I loved building the Danmark, what a fittings package it had and a real beauty. One of the few models that I regret selling, because it was a show stopper. I bought some 24kt gold leaf and covered quite a few parts with the gold leaf. I was my first time using gold leaf and was quite an experience that was well worth the effort.

 

 

 

 

mike 

Wow, I wish I could see some pictures of your finished Danmark. Beautiful model indeed.

To the OP:

I tend to agree, the most effective thing would be to remove the old paint if possible without damaging the model. Painting over old paint often doesn't end well.

Using an airbrush system, you are going to learn that a crucial part (maybe the most crucial part) of its use is keeping it clean. Over and over again, you are going to tear down, clean, and reassemble your airbrush. No way around it, no way to avoid it. With this is mind, the Harder and Steenbeck airbrush systems excel IMHO. Easy to tear down, easy to reassemble, easy to keep clean. There are other airbrush systems out there that perform well. But the H&S is probably the most high quality and simple out there. 

I must make a comment about this particular Dragon model. The instructions are terrible. The included painting references are terrible. I was remiss to not have collected and studied good reference material ahead of time, and as  long time modeler, should have known to do that.

But the instructions are particularly bad with this model. As good as the model is engineered and manufactured, it's a shame they didn't do a better job on the instructions and painting references. Too many things are left up to the imagination or school of hard knocks. 

Otherwise, it is a beautiful kit. And I do recommend it to experienced modelers. Modelers with little experience, no way.

Have yet to do the masts, life boats, rigging, anchors, chains, other small parts/fittings, railings, and some touch up painting here and there. 

Really, I am ready to wrap this up and move on to something else. One day. I plan to do this model again to employ some things I learned building this one.

could have been a dollop of cement that got on there {inside}........something you didn't see.   as it cured and hardened,  it softened the plastic and pulled it in along with the shrinkage of the cement.   sad,  but it does happen.....I'm sure a little filler will do wonders  

 

the bottom looks really good  

You know, there's something else I thought about that happened to me one time before...

I had this magnifying glass that was attached to a movable stand. Well, it was in just the right place where sunlight from my window came through and it darn near started a fire in my workshop. A set of plans were scorched from it. Taught me a lesson about leaving magnifying glasses in close proximity to a window and sunlight. 

Came out great! You would have to know it was there in the first place to even notice it. Sometimes as model builders, we are our own worst critics and nothing is ever perfect enough. That's me, anyway, and my OCD disorder.   

Hey Greg...after discussing which ship you are going to build next, I broke down and ordered a 1:350 Yamato. A shop in Japan sold me one of the new mold Yamato kits for $160 plus postage. That brought it to about $240 total, the best price I could find. So I guess at least I'll want a Pontos set, but looking them over, it seems they offer several or more sets that include different details. I wonder if there is a complete set for that ship?

Hey Jorgen

Are you on the European server? I am on the North American server with about 1600 battles total so far. The Scharnhorst is a lot of fun to play. Have had some high damage scores in that ship.

Those detail pieces from Pontos look amazing. I am assuming that's where many of the pieces on the deck come from. If so, it makes that set well worth the investment no matter how intimidating it looks in the box. My set for the Essex aircraft carrier is intimidating for sure. When I start it, I am going to remember what you said...tackle it like you're eating an elephant, one bite at a time. 

Hi Greg

Personally, I am very interested in seeing a good Yamato build. I am sure whatever you decide to tackle next will be fun to watch in any event. Have thoroughly enjoyed your build of the Dreadnought.

I just looked at the Dockyard site for the first time. Wow, they have some nice models over there, and the pound is favorably priced against the dollar right now. Will probably order some things from them that I have never seen over here in the states.

Going to happily follow this thread. So much to learn about building a card model. And this one is huge!

Jim

Just found your build thread for the Hood. Will follow with great interest. Huge, beautiful model.

Regards

Craig

My first instinct is the plastic reacted to the paint you are using. Is it a rattle can paint? If so, what kind/brand is it?

Certain types of paint can take quite a while to gas out. If multiple coats are applied, the plastic is damaged by the volatiles in the paint that are gassing out in the curing process.

PS: also, "bondo" or other types of filler have the same effect on plastic.

Have you tried Ezyline? Very light, does not have to pull hard to get tension and if you knock it, it gives. Try a pinprick of CA to the joins on the rigging just to be sure. Basically very thin elastic bands.

I bought a couple of small sample pieces in 2 different diameters just to see which I might prefer for 1:350 scale. I must still buy a 100' roll once I am sure which size to use. If I remember correctly, the smallest size was .3mm and the next size up, .6mm. Probably the very smallest size is what I'll need.  

I am curious about how you put tension on the rigging without causing the masts to come tumbling down. I realize of course, that you probably must "tie off" a set of lines on each side of the pull at the same time so as to keep it (masts) upright. But still, it seems like one would need at least three hands to do all that. 

On my ship, there are some very flimsy horizontal photo etch pieces that attach to the mast. Pictures show that rigging should extend from these pieces to the bottom as well as the top of the masts. I just don't know how I will do that and at the same time keep those PE pieces safely glued to the masts.

I'm trust your wife has been given a special request to please do not dust off the rigging on the Dreadnaught, no matter how tempting it might be? 

The Admiral is always right and everything like that, but a gentle reminder to not dust might be in order.

Love it!