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Trussben

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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. So some new frame squares are in the process of being made so as to be able to utilize the t-tracks for securing them in position, Also new fore/aft holders were constructed out of Poplar just like the squares. While doing these small jobs the build board layout drawings were split into 3 using autocad so as be able to be printed on regular printer paper, great pains were made for accuracy and alignment of these. Now I'm making the overhead gantry which I hope to have done in the next few days. Happy Holidays to all on MSW. Ben
  2. Thanks Druxey, Funny but I got up to a drill bit equivalent to 4" at scale and it started to cut a little noisy with some vibration with the angle and wood grain, so I decided to quit there and will finish with pin taper reamers by hand, I really don't want to tear out the timbers and have to remake them!! Ben
  3. Hey Greg, Yep, it's a 2000 DRO 8 axis. Learning it as I go. Ben
  4. Thanks for the likes. Fun was had today setting up the mill and drilling the hawse holes at the correct 10 degree angle as measured off the plans. They were only drilled out to 4" at the moment, the rest of the way will be done with a tapered reamer, but this has given the correct position and angle of the holes.
  5. New Keel is being drilled for its bolts on the Sherline mill using the sensitive drill attachment. Gives nice accurate placement. 7/8" Bolts will be simulated using 24ga copper wire that will be blackened later with LOS. Ben
  6. So on vacation for a few weeks and hope to get some good progress on Pegasus, wishing all on MSW happy holidays. Ben
  7. Very nice work on your Confed so far, I will enjoy watching your progress. Ben
  8. Hey Jax, Glad to see you back at it. Is it my eyes or the picture, but is your parquet floor a bit offset? Pattern looks odd? Ben
  9. So all forward frames have been removed back to L aft, this is where I shall start building from as it's where the rising woods meet.
  10. So back into modeling I go, here you can see some frames being removed from the fore section using an isopropyl bath just deep enough to cover a couple of frames.
  11. Glad to see you survived the move and the workshop is built, look forward to watching you start modeling as I'm about to do the same! Ben
  12. Thanks for looking Mike40. I am still waiting to get into the winter months where I have control of my humidity levels to start framing again, as per Druxeys advice that he always does his framing during the winter. Be
  13. Ok, I'll throw a few cents in. As a newbie scratch POF builder, I transitioned from "traditional" POB kits, however I did learn a lot from POB kits, mainly that the plans and instructions were mostly terrible ( exception being MS Confederacy IMO ). I agree wholeheartedly with a lot of comments that having options for upgrading kits is great, but I think that's better left to the specialists like syren/crown etc.. to offer than the manufacturer ( it's not in their interest). Just check out the option kits available for a lot of plastic kits from third parties ( it's a huge business ). Now I think I can say with reasonable confidence that a large amount of ship modelers want to build something with a history ( why so many Vic's and Connies ), but there are a lot of other ships with great history's that are being ignored but my point being that who wants to build 5 Vic's, we need to have choice, but who knows what they are interested in until they get inspired by seeing something different, ( DA comet, GH swiftsure, CP barge ). I think what I'm trying to say is " if you build it, they will come" IF it's good quality, great plans and instructions, price reasonable for the subject matter ( $200 for a awesome barge, $800 for an awesome frigate, $1500 for an awesome first rate ). Ben
  14. New keel has been made, decided to have a ebony false keel as I have lots of it. Onwards Ben
  15. As somebody who has just gone through the entire move and build a new workshop thing, I wish you luck and hope all goes well. Ben
  16. Funnily enough, the bad midships area could be made into a cross section model with a little work! Ben
  17. Hull has been split into three parts by cutting through the keel and rising wood where the biggest gaps were. Isopropyl is now being applied to remove the entire old keel from the sections, it's length had changed by 1/8", also some frame thicknesses were checked and only the midships area shows shrinking across the grain, so I'm hoping to save the fore and aft sections. Ben
  18. Michael, I tried the damp towel several times, yes the frames did swell back up, but within a day or so they shrank right back, even though I have humidity control now. The wood was from Jeff at Hobbymill and was properly seasoned and stable. Thanks to everyone for the likes and comments. Ben
  19. Hey Andy, Nice to see you around again. I hope when I cut into the hull I can save the fore and aft sections. Ben
  20. So back to my Pegasus build, some major issues stemming from my move have badly affected the hull, I have had obvious and pretty severe distortions in the keel and framing in the midships area, large gaps between frames and twisting have occurred. The hull is stable now due to my adding humidity control of the workshop but the damage has been done. Now what to do about it?? 1. Start all over again. 2. A la Mark and his Licorne, save what I can and rebuild what I cannot. I'm leaning towards no2, remove as many frames as can be saved, and make a new keel for them to be fixed to. I will update when I have decided which way I'm going to go. Ben
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