gjdale

Build Day: 3
1:30 hours today, 7 hours in total.
 
After a break of trips, holidays and Christmas, I continued today with planking.
 
Glued 3rd row of planking strips in both sides. These are a bit critical ones since they are actually almost the first ones to get the support from the bulkheads. The 2 rows of strips above are mostly glued only to the keel and are barely touching the bulkheads, which will be removed later. That's why these 3rd row planks have also the task to support the two strips above them as well. For that reason, after gluing them I stopped to ensure I wait until they are fully dried and settled.
 

 
Thanks for watching.

Glad to hear the soldering worked for you Slog - should save some frustration with trying to glue them. Your work to date is looking great.

Now you can't ask for a better reference photo than that Stuart! Looks like you were right all along!!!

Ah........ Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing? And always 20/20 vision! Though I'm not sure just how difficult that might have proved with all those curves. Never mind though Stuart, I'm sure that with the skill you've applied to date, it will look stunning regardless.

It is hard to believe that it has been over a month since my last update.  Work on the quarter deck beams has been progressing very slowly but I hope to have them completed within the week.   The pictures were taken before any finish sanding.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Just stunning Nils! What a lovely model you are producing here. Every update shows your care and attention to detail.

The Pontos ones are mini kits in themselves,with etch and brass rod, not easy to put together, but neither is it impossible. Comes together beautifully, and I have left the lid off for the moment for ease of painting. It just requires soft hands.
 
Next will be the crane, sans the Arial which was taken off before the final mission. 

Hello Grant..
The piano is actually a baby grand piano that Came along with my marriage to Charlene.  However, she doesn't play the piano and ironically, I do.  Or let's say, "I did!"
At one time I could really do justice to the keyboard, even played in a dance band way back then.  Mostly pop and jazz.  I have been very lucky with respect to music as i was given a gift of being able to play by ear.  As hard as I tried as a youngster, I could hardly read music so I memorized everything, even when playing at dances, etc. I even played the organ a couple of times in one of the local churches.
Now the piano is mostly a nice piece of furniture that may even end up supporting a ship model.  Who knows?
Thanks for your visit; it was nice of you to take the time to do so.
Happy New Year,
 
Jerry

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 192 – More on Tops
 
The holiday season is a time for reflection and I have been thinking about the work ahead on YA in the New Year and beyond.  One of the approaching tasks is to finish the dust case that was started in an earlier post.  This project always gets me thinking about the size of the model.  The first photo, showing the drawing of the enormous fore yard attached to the mast, is not nearly as scary as it is in real life, but gives some appreciation of the final model size.
 

 
The yard is 82' long (~14" actual), just 7' shorter than the entire lower mast from step to cap – and without studding sail booms.  Even with all my familiarity with the drafting, it was somewhat shocking. 
 
The height of the model is another issue.  The next picture was taken using a Christmas gift – a new tripod that can crank up to 7' in height.
 

 
This will be needed for the rigging photos.  A leg of the old tripod may be seen in the picture.  So much for reflections on model size.
 
Some questions arose on the fabrication of the tops after the last post.  The steps are many, so I will refrain from describing everything here, except to answer some questions.  In the first picture the distance between index holes is being measured so the crosstree can be drilled to match the index holes on the drawing.
 

 
The aft tree has already been drilled and pinned in place on the drawing.  With the crosstrees in place the trestletrees were marked and the mortises cut, one at a time.  In the next picture the forward tree has been removed to check the first mortises.
 

 
After the structure was assembled, the bending pattern used for the rim, was used to mark the inner line of the rim on the structure.
 

 
In the next picture the half-laps on the cross and trestle trees have been cut, the structure has been located using pins, the rim has been pinned in place, and a chisel is being used to mark the lines of the mortises to be cut in the rim.
 

 
After fitting the joints, the rim was glued to the trees and all the excess ends were trimmed back.  The iron rim plates were then attached as described earlier.
 
There was a question on the slotting of the rim to fit the deadeye straps.  The next picture shows this being done using a jewelers saw.
 

 
The holes are too small to be filed.  The saw works well.  It does take some contortions to fit the saw to the threaded blade and to reverse it so the cut is always downward on the plate.  This keeps it from peeling off.
 
There is a cap over the forward part of the rim, covering the plank ends and also the joint at the forward end of the trestletrees.  This was cut from a single piece of wood and is shown in the next picture being finish sanded.
 

 
In this picture some planking has been installed.  These were installed over the lubbers hole to ensure a straight line once the lubber hole sections were cut out.  The next picture shows the three tops planked.
 

 
The holes in the fairlead planks were drilled using the x-y table on the mill to set the spacing.   I spent quite a lot of time this week making sure there were sufficient holes in each top.  This required reviewing the entire running rigging list of roughly 400 lines.  Each hole is allocated to a specific line – generally buntlines, leech lines, clue lines, upper sail sheets and some jib lines.  Six yards on each mast add up.  The line numbers for the mizzen top may be seen in the lower right of the photo.  As a result of the review, I added holes at the forward end of each top.  The fore and main tops now have 40 holes each and the mizzen 34.  There are just a few spare open holes, none in the mizzen top.  I mention this because rigging design and checking is consuming a lot of my time, so the modeling progress these days is slow.
 
The drawing in the last picture shows additional features added to the cap, in this case the mizzen cap.  Drawing discrepancies in the pictures, actually revisions were mentioned earlier.  Note that blocks are shown on the cap.  These are shackled to the cross iron on the cap, so to avoid having to strap the blocks later to the soldered shackles on the installed cap, this will be done before fitting the iron to the cap – a complication in using soldered shackles that requires more rigging checks early in the work – in this case checks of the entire standing and running list.  All of this is a great mental exercise.
 
Happy New Year everyone.
 
Ed
 

Glad to hear the soldering worked for you Slog - should save some frustration with trying to glue them. Your work to date is looking great.

Glad to hear the soldering worked for you Slog - should save some frustration with trying to glue them. Your work to date is looking great.

Thanks Keith, Mobbsie, Ken, Sam and Popeye for your generous comments, and to all those who hit the "like" button.
 
Wheel Building Continued
 
The spoke holders, which will be attached to the inner face of the wheel rim, were next to be machined. These are milled from a piece of brass stock 1/4” wide by 1/16” thick. The outer end of each piece needs to be milled with a convex radius of 1” (to mate with the 2” diameter of the wheel). Additionally, the end needs to be cut with a concave surface so that it will mate cleanly with the curved surface of the wheel rim.
 
Kip gave a good description of his process, using the rotary table to achieve the convex radius and a 3mm ball-end cutter to achieve the concave cut. While it took me a while to get my head around all of this, eventually it made sense. However, I came unstuck in trying to follow Kip’s method exactly as he used a narrow vice to hold the parts while milling the 1” radius.
 
Without a thinner vice, I had to devise a holding jig of some sort. It took several days of thinking through but I got there in the end…… I started by drilling a series of 9/16" clearance holes in the 1/4" x 1/16" brass strip, starting 10mm from the end and then at 15mm spacing between centres. I then drilled and tapped two 6-32 holes in a piece of scrap timber such that one was centred 5mm from the end and the other 20mm from the end. This meant that when I attached the brass strip to the timber, it would be held securely with 5mm overhanging the end of the timber while the rear most cap screw would be centred 25mm from the end of the brass. Then I just needed to align that cap screw in the centre of the vice, over the centre of the rotary table and then offset that centre from the cutting bit by 25mm (+ 1.5mm for the radius of cutter). Here is a picture of the overall setup.
 

 
And a close-up of the holding jig:
 

 
After making the first pass to create the end shape, I removed the strip from the jig and cut off the end at a pre-marked point using a razor saw and mitre box. Because of the threaded hold-downs, I was able to remove and replace the strip in the holding jig without changing any settings on the X,Y or Z axes of the mill by simply undoing the 6-32 cap screws. After cutting off the freshly milled piece, I simply re-installed it with the next set of holes to have the end protruding exactly the right amount again and we were ready to repeat the milling cut.
 
Here is another close-up of the milling in process:
 

 
And here are the five resulting pieces ready to be cut to final length. I only need three of these but thought it best to make a couple of spares. Turned out to be a good decision!
 

  
The next step was to cut these to final length. According to Kip’s instructions, that length was to be 7/64”. I converted that to metric to make it easier to operate the mill wheels, and rounded up slightly to 3.0 mm. In order to cut these precisely to the same length, I made a jig to hold them in the mill vice while I used the slitting saw to make the cut. The parts were held onto the jig temporarily with CA glue. Here is the setup:
 

 
It turns out that CA is not a good choice to use for this purpose. When it heats up the bond gives way fairly easily. I’ll put that one in my Homer Simpson “Doh!” file!!! So, those extra two parts came in quite handy as by the time I’d completed the cut, two of the “keeper” ends had vanished (although I had all five of the “offcut” ends!).
 
Here’s a pic of the final parts cut to size. The tweezers in the background are to give a sense of scale.
 

 
And just in case that doesn’t do it for you, here is a shot with all three of the pieces on the fingernail of my index finger.
 

 
Man, these things are small!  And the next job will be to drill a series of 0.5 mm holes into the long narrow inboard edge to receive the spokes.  Stay tuned….

Thanks for the nice comments and likes!
 
Finished a draft version of the display case sketch. Would appreciate the critics, it would be cheaper to correct the design issues now than later! 
 
Basic characteristics: 100cm wide, 80cm high and 30cm deep (40' wide, 31' high, 12' deep). Plexiglas (3mm thick) would be used instead of glass (for safety and weight reasons). No glass on the back side, it would be mounted to the wall and the background would be a white wall.
Made out of the same swiss pear as the model. The frame would be made out of square pear stock 2x2cm (13/16').
 
Here is the overview first:
 
Front: 

(yes, I love scarf joints )
 
Isometric:

(Please ignore the joints in the back, I had no energy to draw them properly, but they be a mirrored copy of the front joints).
 
The load bearing part is hidden by the "skirt", and is made out of thick plywood bolted to the wall with Big Strong Bolts. Any sort of electrical stuff would be hidden in that cavities as well.
Plywood is covered by the pear "skirt" with a model description carved on it (or inlayed).

The top part of the case would be attached to the wall as well, with hidden screws, but will not take any weight.
 
Tricky part is the the way it would be opened. Since I will keep model in it and get it out every time I want to work on it, the opening mechanism should be easy to use (multiple times per week). Also, due to asymmetrical nature of the model, I want guests to be able to get it out easily to see the other side.
So the front window is detachable and is held by strong magnets. That means that front frame is split into two parts - one is 1cm thick and hold everything together, and another is also 1cm thick and holds the front glass. 
 
Front frame joints look like this (a bit complicated, but it is a sort of decorative joint, I want it to look nice)

 
Or a multi-colored version of the same joint, each color is a different wood piece:

 
There would be a groove inside front part of the front frame, to provide an additional support for the top glass and its frame, since otherwise it would be only supported from sides and will sag over time.
 
Would appreciate corrections if I forgot to over-think something in this design!  Is the plexiglas thick enough? I accounted for the wood movement, grooves for the glass are deeper to allow wood to shrink and breathe a bit. 
Is the base construction strong enough?

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

So a small piece of rising wood has been added before the aft section for frame 10 fore to be mounted to, then the next surviving section of 8 frames will be installed.
 
Now I'm thinking of leaving the floor fillers around 10 fore out, this will give room for the wood to move and hopefully help avoid the issues I had on the original build. I shall repeat this every 8 frames so it will look consistent and it works out to be the correct amount for the amount frames left to complete the framing.
 
Ben

some more pictures
 
cranes : the first one is with the cranemast as it comes  with the kit, second pic with PE-mast; don't know yet wich one to choose

 

 
funnel n° 3, with the piping, not accuratly but i can live with that

 
the inside of the hull will be lighted with a LED-strip, brightness can be adjusted trough a remote control

 

 
deckplanking

 

 
Eric

Hello
Mike, Jose, Albert and Ed,
Thank you for your interest and the nice words.
Many thanks also to the others for the LIKEs.

Meanwhile, I made the different chainplate types.

The next picture shows an already assembled chainplate.

Thanks Keith, Mobbsie, Ken, Sam and Popeye for your generous comments, and to all those who hit the "like" button.
 
Wheel Building Continued
 
The spoke holders, which will be attached to the inner face of the wheel rim, were next to be machined. These are milled from a piece of brass stock 1/4” wide by 1/16” thick. The outer end of each piece needs to be milled with a convex radius of 1” (to mate with the 2” diameter of the wheel). Additionally, the end needs to be cut with a concave surface so that it will mate cleanly with the curved surface of the wheel rim.
 
Kip gave a good description of his process, using the rotary table to achieve the convex radius and a 3mm ball-end cutter to achieve the concave cut. While it took me a while to get my head around all of this, eventually it made sense. However, I came unstuck in trying to follow Kip’s method exactly as he used a narrow vice to hold the parts while milling the 1” radius.
 
Without a thinner vice, I had to devise a holding jig of some sort. It took several days of thinking through but I got there in the end…… I started by drilling a series of 9/16" clearance holes in the 1/4" x 1/16" brass strip, starting 10mm from the end and then at 15mm spacing between centres. I then drilled and tapped two 6-32 holes in a piece of scrap timber such that one was centred 5mm from the end and the other 20mm from the end. This meant that when I attached the brass strip to the timber, it would be held securely with 5mm overhanging the end of the timber while the rear most cap screw would be centred 25mm from the end of the brass. Then I just needed to align that cap screw in the centre of the vice, over the centre of the rotary table and then offset that centre from the cutting bit by 25mm (+ 1.5mm for the radius of cutter). Here is a picture of the overall setup.
 

 
And a close-up of the holding jig:
 

 
After making the first pass to create the end shape, I removed the strip from the jig and cut off the end at a pre-marked point using a razor saw and mitre box. Because of the threaded hold-downs, I was able to remove and replace the strip in the holding jig without changing any settings on the X,Y or Z axes of the mill by simply undoing the 6-32 cap screws. After cutting off the freshly milled piece, I simply re-installed it with the next set of holes to have the end protruding exactly the right amount again and we were ready to repeat the milling cut.
 
Here is another close-up of the milling in process:
 

 
And here are the five resulting pieces ready to be cut to final length. I only need three of these but thought it best to make a couple of spares. Turned out to be a good decision!
 

  
The next step was to cut these to final length. According to Kip’s instructions, that length was to be 7/64”. I converted that to metric to make it easier to operate the mill wheels, and rounded up slightly to 3.0 mm. In order to cut these precisely to the same length, I made a jig to hold them in the mill vice while I used the slitting saw to make the cut. The parts were held onto the jig temporarily with CA glue. Here is the setup:
 

 
It turns out that CA is not a good choice to use for this purpose. When it heats up the bond gives way fairly easily. I’ll put that one in my Homer Simpson “Doh!” file!!! So, those extra two parts came in quite handy as by the time I’d completed the cut, two of the “keeper” ends had vanished (although I had all five of the “offcut” ends!).
 
Here’s a pic of the final parts cut to size. The tweezers in the background are to give a sense of scale.
 

 
And just in case that doesn’t do it for you, here is a shot with all three of the pieces on the fingernail of my index finger.
 

 
Man, these things are small!  And the next job will be to drill a series of 0.5 mm holes into the long narrow inboard edge to receive the spokes.  Stay tuned….

The lower standing rigging is now complete (with the exception of the ratlines). This involved doing the deadeyes on the the lower tops, the futtock shrouds, the catharpins and the upper jeer blocks on the main.
 
The dead eyes are from the kit. I stropped them using wire, rather than the kit PE parts, The futtock staves are 1/32" square boxwood strip. The futtock shrouds are  seized to Syren plastic hooks. The catharpins are simplified, by simply tying them to the futtock staves.
 
The jeer blocks and their lashings are not entirely accurate either, but give a reasonable impression of their appearance at this scale. They are fitted only on the main, since the crojack on the mizzen has only a sling and no jeers.
 
In my usual spirit of procrastination, I will complete and mount the topmasts, and at least begin their rigging, before tackling the ratlines.
 
Bob
 
 

After the model was covered with dope and dry, I prepped the painted the entire model using sprayed on epoxy paint. The graphics were done free hand and do not represent any actual aircraft i am aware of. The 1:1 Fleet Biplanes were rather dull and bland in the way they were finished/painted. I wanted my model to stand out and be as easy to see while in the air as possible.
I put the finishing of the model on hold after my brother passed away last year. I am resolved to finishing and flying it this coming year. Not very much remaining to do at all. 
 
As you can see, it is rather large, taking up almost the entire width of a driveway. 
 
It should fly nice and slow, and be very aerobatic.
 

 

Thanks for all the nice comments guys and everyone for the likes.
 
 
Grant I have thought about soldering but don’t have a soldering iron at the moment.  I have had a play around previously with the soldering torch but remembering the wire is only 0.2mm in diameter it was difficult to heat it up without destroying it!  Too gentle approach to save the wire affected the silver solder paste as it didn’t really get up to temperature.
 
There was a couple of times where it just flashed the wire enough not to destroy it but enough to get the silver solder paste to flow but the window of opportunity is very small.  I also tried using rosin core solder but it didn’t like the torch at all.  The plan is to get a soldering iron and some solid solder and a flux paste/fluid and play around again.
 
The problem comes down to holding the wire in place as it is so small just touch it wrong with the tweezers and it ejects itself across the room.  For a different project making up a grill with 0.5mm wire which I can easily silver solder I tried taping down all the pieces but of course it burned off with the torch and I guess the fumes contaminated the joints as the silver solder failed to hold.  I will certainly try playing around when I get a soldering iron.
 
Incidentally I could have done the handrails by bending the 2 outer supports from the handrail and would only need to worry about the centre stub which doesn’t need to be a strong joint as the handrail and 2 outer stubs would be one piece and self-supporting.  Hindsight is a wonderful thing LOL
 
 
Okay next bit of progress is structure 16 and all the parts are shown below.  I haven’t gone into much detail as the construction is essentially the same as the previous structure 15 posted earlier.  It was a bit more complicated due to all the ins and outs and I am not as happy with how it turned out compared to assembly 15.
 
Several of the side skins were over length and needed to be trimmed considerably to fit; also I ended up cutting instead of folding some parts to make fitment easier.
 

 
 
Here is a photo of the completed structure; doors? check, portholes? check, windows? check.  The only different items on this structure are the addition of some handles on the end.  I did double check to make sure these are vertical and not the expected horizontal of step irons!
 

 
 
My first fabrication of step irons (or handles in this case). These are 0.2mm diameter wire which I annealed using the soldering torch as this brass just snaps if you try to do too tight of a bend otherwise.  I checked the distance between the pin pricked holes with the digital callipers and then went around measuring everything I could think of to match the width.  It turns out two 6” steel rules gripped together was perfect.
 
The rulers were pressed down on to the wire and the legs folded up and then given a squeeze with tweezers.  The over long legs were trimmed back a bit with nail clippers.  The legs were fed into the pin pricked holes and a 0.5mm drill bit was placed in the hoop and the step iron pressed home for a consistent distance.
 

 
 
Here is the cheapo water colours I used to paint the iron work.  It goes on so much easier to the tiny wires than brush painting Tamiya paint and dries to a more complementary black also.  You can also use this type of paints for edge colouring but at the moment the PITT pens are easier and more convenient for me.
 

 
Final shot of it in its spot.  I have also temporally placed the 3rd of the 3 skylights, which were made previously.
 

 
I only have 3 more days before I fly out again so will continue working on the sub-assemblies.
 
Cheers
Slog

Looks great Slog. Had you considered soldering the handrail pieces together before applying to the skylights? Was just thinking you could do this, leave the "legs" a bit longer and then trim them to length prior to fitting. Might save some aggro with trying to glue them together?

I am currently buidling the TITANIC, Mantua scale 1:200. This model will be completed with PE-parts, such as windows, railings, ladders and more little stuff. Much information comes from the Titanic Research and Modelling Association,the book " RMS Titanic, a modelmaker's manual" by Peter Davies-Garner and CAD-drawings by Robert Hahn.
 
Here some pictures of what has been done so far :
 
fixing the frames and start with planking the hull :

 

 

 
funnels with the rivet-pattern :

 
lifeboats with PE-davits
 

 

 
Eric

Thanks Keith, Mobbsie, Ken, Sam and Popeye for your generous comments, and to all those who hit the "like" button.
 
Wheel Building Continued
 
The spoke holders, which will be attached to the inner face of the wheel rim, were next to be machined. These are milled from a piece of brass stock 1/4” wide by 1/16” thick. The outer end of each piece needs to be milled with a convex radius of 1” (to mate with the 2” diameter of the wheel). Additionally, the end needs to be cut with a concave surface so that it will mate cleanly with the curved surface of the wheel rim.
 
Kip gave a good description of his process, using the rotary table to achieve the convex radius and a 3mm ball-end cutter to achieve the concave cut. While it took me a while to get my head around all of this, eventually it made sense. However, I came unstuck in trying to follow Kip’s method exactly as he used a narrow vice to hold the parts while milling the 1” radius.
 
Without a thinner vice, I had to devise a holding jig of some sort. It took several days of thinking through but I got there in the end…… I started by drilling a series of 9/16" clearance holes in the 1/4" x 1/16" brass strip, starting 10mm from the end and then at 15mm spacing between centres. I then drilled and tapped two 6-32 holes in a piece of scrap timber such that one was centred 5mm from the end and the other 20mm from the end. This meant that when I attached the brass strip to the timber, it would be held securely with 5mm overhanging the end of the timber while the rear most cap screw would be centred 25mm from the end of the brass. Then I just needed to align that cap screw in the centre of the vice, over the centre of the rotary table and then offset that centre from the cutting bit by 25mm (+ 1.5mm for the radius of cutter). Here is a picture of the overall setup.
 

 
And a close-up of the holding jig:
 

 
After making the first pass to create the end shape, I removed the strip from the jig and cut off the end at a pre-marked point using a razor saw and mitre box. Because of the threaded hold-downs, I was able to remove and replace the strip in the holding jig without changing any settings on the X,Y or Z axes of the mill by simply undoing the 6-32 cap screws. After cutting off the freshly milled piece, I simply re-installed it with the next set of holes to have the end protruding exactly the right amount again and we were ready to repeat the milling cut.
 
Here is another close-up of the milling in process:
 

 
And here are the five resulting pieces ready to be cut to final length. I only need three of these but thought it best to make a couple of spares. Turned out to be a good decision!
 

  
The next step was to cut these to final length. According to Kip’s instructions, that length was to be 7/64”. I converted that to metric to make it easier to operate the mill wheels, and rounded up slightly to 3.0 mm. In order to cut these precisely to the same length, I made a jig to hold them in the mill vice while I used the slitting saw to make the cut. The parts were held onto the jig temporarily with CA glue. Here is the setup:
 

 
It turns out that CA is not a good choice to use for this purpose. When it heats up the bond gives way fairly easily. I’ll put that one in my Homer Simpson “Doh!” file!!! So, those extra two parts came in quite handy as by the time I’d completed the cut, two of the “keeper” ends had vanished (although I had all five of the “offcut” ends!).
 
Here’s a pic of the final parts cut to size. The tweezers in the background are to give a sense of scale.
 

 
And just in case that doesn’t do it for you, here is a shot with all three of the pieces on the fingernail of my index finger.
 

 
Man, these things are small!  And the next job will be to drill a series of 0.5 mm holes into the long narrow inboard edge to receive the spokes.  Stay tuned….

Thank you Mark, Frank, Jan, Wacko, druxey and Pop, very appreciated!
  and miracles do happen: Univers gave me a nice X-Mess-presi - some tinkering time :-)    A short look back: Some time I discovered on the William Turner drawings from late 1805 some details on the poop deck rails. After some fruitful discussions it proved to be most likely some fair lead rollers that were used for hauling some rope from the poop deck rigging, due to the limited space there and the restricted access. So plenty of men could pull the strings from the quarter deck, with more ease.  More here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13182-thinking-things-through-detail-in-turners-work-on-the-poop-deck-railing/   Also the helm indicator was rediscovered on the drawing and also to be seen on the contemporary model from 1765. Reason enough not to omit this one any longer ;-) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13202-thinking-things-through-axiometer-or-helm-indicator/   So then off it went :-)   First the still missing most upfront deck beam still had to be placed. The white sheet served for positioning.     Then some trials to get the proportions of the clamps and rollers correct..     Here in comparison to the Heller Part, that is based upon todays state of the Vic in P.     Then slowly getting in touch with the base part of the rail.     Clamp and rollers are composed out of several small parts to give a defined form.     And then on location. The gaps on the sides will disappear on the final fixing, as the material easily bends in the shape of the curve of the deck.     Splashed some paint ...     ... and placed in place.         XXXDAn