Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Rob, did you make those pump crank wheels? -
Bill, Consult Longridge pg 233 first paragraph, and last two paragraphs. In summary, the two deadeyes on the stool are for the topmast standing backstay, and the topgallant backstay. The royal backstay either has a thimble on the end lashed to an eyebolt on the stool, or lashed to a 2nd thimble attached to the eyebolt on the stool. This eyebolt lives behind the topgallant backstay deadeye which is why you can't see a 3rd attachment in the big drawing. This backstay is Heller's "1032"; I guess they want you to attach the thread before it is inaccessible behind the deadeye after you add it.
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https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/extraordinary-500-year-old-shipwreck-rewriting-history-age-discovery-180978825/?utm_source=smithsoniandaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20211019-daily-responsive&spMailingID=45805020&spUserID=OTY4MjUzNzkyMTQ3S0&spJobID=2102058596&spReportId=MjEwMjA1ODU5NgS2
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I may have misled - Harland is speaking of stowing spars in the rigging when topgallant (and) topmasts are sent down; not stowage of spare spars per se. He does mention that topgallant masts are sent down a backstay and stored on the booms. His bibliography is rather extensive, including a couple of 18th century sources . but most are 19th or 20th century like our familiar Lees et. al.
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I agree with Popeye that upper yards were stowed in the rigging, in fact I made up the royal yards missing in the Heller Victory kit and stowed them inside the topmast shrouds. This is in accordance with "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by Harland.
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Bill, we talked about this before. See post #433 where the tack runs through a sheave in the chess tree. I was just reminding you.....
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I agree with Kevin. Don't forget to feed that main tack through the chess tree! 🙂
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Dale, I really like your model, but hate to inform you that you have attached the jibs with the hanks along the wrong edges . The jib sheets should attach at the right-angled corner of the sail; the long edge you have loose should attach to the stay. Just in case you want to fix it. 😐
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Bill, since no one has answered (perhaps because it could turn into a very long dissertation) here is how I started. I looped my shroud pairs over the lower masts first then attached the jeer cleats and topmasts. All was pre-painted and then masts were glued in. Left shrouds dangling loose while attaching lower yards and their slings, jeers, and trusses, figuring they would not be affected by any mast positioning tweaks by standing rigging later and I had better access with loose shrouds. Rigged lifts but left loose. Once these ropes that run down alongside the mast were done, I rigged the shrouds then the stays, working my way upward and from bow to stern. Topgallant masts were attached once topmast shrouds were looped round topmast head, and then sort of repeat the above process. Of course, yards had all their blocks attached before adding to masts. My chief concern was access for belaying at deck pins because I have big hands and did not want to be reaching in with tools I don't have to try to tie things off. In fact, I attached many many lines (for example mizzen stays) to deck even before inserting masts, and rigged "in reverse" because there's better access up high. I attached threads of sufficient length to many deck pins and rigged in reverse too. It's a mess of coils at times but I'd rather do it that way. That's a brief indication of my thought process.
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Beautiful work, especially at that scale! Can't imagine trying to make those oars. We've been to Chania and I remember lunching at one of the restaurants opposite the lighthouse on the breakwater. Lovely city and we had a great time on Crete! <edit> ps Also got up at the crack of dawn in Chania to go on the Samaria Gorge hike. Memorable experience too.
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Kevin, actually you could print the hull in sections, like Yves Vidal's corvette. Just sayin' 😁😉
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If the rigging is like my Victory, the chess tree is for the main tack in which case the slot should line up with the hole in the hull for that tack. Going by your plan and photo the slot is ok but the chess tree top needs to be cut off.
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I have to admit, the 1/4 galleries do look good with copper. Great job painting the balusters! Or are they etch?
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1/4 galleries aren't copper, just the belfry. I guess it is considered an important part of the ship to be taken pride in - just look at the fancy woodwork! No I didn't provide proof of purchase.
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Looks good Bill. FYI the belfry roof is copper clad I believe. Also you can get replacement parts from Heller; go to glow2b.de click on "service" then "spare part form". I had no luck emailing them this form but got an immediate response (and the part) when I FAX'ed it over to the given number.
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Same idea but this Bismarck was decades ago....before the internet, even 😃
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Thought members might be interested: The largest model of Bismarck that I ever saw was in the late 70's. She was built by an ex-crewman and a local mall in Bramalea, which contained my favourite hobby shop (YAY, "Vivian's Hobbies" !!!) as a model-building teenager, had her on display. I don't know the exact length, and it's a long time ago for recollection, but let's say 20-25 ft. To actually cruise on the water this gentleman sat inside it with his head and shoulders inside the forward superstructure, looking out I suppose the bridge windows. This model was on a tour of sorts and he had a signing book for any ex-crew members. I was surprised by how many signatures it contained. Just did a quick google search for it but nothing found as yet.
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Plans were available from the Trireme Trust organization which has been wound down now that Olympias is out of the water etc. When I tried to get plans last winter, I got a reply that they were looking to hire a new librarian and to try again in the spring. I never did, but you could try them again now.
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So I'm puzzled; how is it that the Heller model has the gun deck level with the head gratings or whatever it's called? Presumably the gunports are in the "right" hull locations and the guns are not 1/4" off vertically; if so how can the headrails be in the correct position vertically? I can't understand how this 2 ft scale difference is absorbed...........🤔😒 ps: Kevin are you certain you will finish before they do? 😁 pps: Amazing fusion360 stern you've made. I hadn't looked at your log in a while until today.
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If we could enter a descriptive caption for pictures we add to logs, and others could search for caption keywords, it would be much easier to make use of other peoples' long logs. Moderators? Is it possible?
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I actually found that picture just doing a google search for "HMS Victory beakhead bulkhead images". In all HMS Victory searches, Daniel comes up in some way. You get to recognize some of his shots, for example the row of men on the heads 😃
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Bill, your bulkhead extreme close-up reminds me that the two gunport lids are crazy low relative to the deck. I believe on the old Forum people advocated raising them a bit. It was too late in my case, but here is a shot of Daniel's modified bulkhead. He seems to have raised the door sills and the ports; maybe you can find out all about it in his log.
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Fantastic looking model! It's a shame you aren't doing RC for it; it would be spectacular on the water.
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