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reklein

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Everything posted by reklein

  1. reklein
    Was talking to a freind today who lived in Sitka. He once owned a wooden troller about 35 long. He said the planks were always joined with a block between ribs, The plank ends were through bolted and countersunk on the exterior and plugged. Also bedding compound was liberally applied between the plank and joiner. Decks were done the same way. On a boat that size ,screws for joints driven into the frames and carlins will weaken the wood and allow water to enter. At one time in Sitka it was popular to apply Pliobond ,a rubber cement as a waterproof deck paint.It proved to be too subject to wear and the practice was stopped. BILL
  2. reklein
    Check out Ken Forans book on building in brass. Everything you need to know about brass. Schiffer books. No financial connection just a good book. Bill
  3. reklein
    My gut feeling on these smaller boats is that planks might be joined with a backing plate between the ribs instead of on the rib itself. 30 years hanging around wooden fishing boats in Alaska tells me this. Don't really know the rules. I think that a butt in 3 planks would be reasonable and not closer than 6 feet apart longitudinally. Bill
  4. reklein
    Take a look at the Lady Washington on the last page of the amazing photos thread. Some folks only use about a third of the material needed to avoid the bulky square look in a models sail. BILL
  5. reklein
    This is nice work Siggi !. I reall like the stern view in her building stand. Looks like shes sitting in the water. As modelers we don't often get this more realistic more probable view of her as she really was. Bill
  6. reklein
    Looks good Jens,I look forward to seeing the pictures of the frames and planking. Bill Welcome to the forum
  7. reklein
    At the risk of sounding like a broken record I will again recommend Vectorcut as a source for Laser cut letters for slightly raised letters. Just put some guidelines lightly in the area you want the letters and Voila! Prepaint them if you like. Bill
  8. reklein
    I would recommend the micro-mark belt disc sander,specially for small parts. One can build a sled to tighten up clearances on the disc sander side. Bill
  9. reklein
    If I'm not mistaken this same Jamestown took part in the Irish potatoe famine relief and was later used to patrol the north pacific and Alaskan coast. Their exist old drawings of her taking on fresh water in Sitka AK and there is a bay named for her there. Bill now living in Idaho
  10. reklein
    Try using a product called Modge Podge its not water soluble when drybut is similaar to white glue. Bill
  11. reklein
    We have a lot of RO here in north Idaho.Not much good for anything but cover for birds and wildlife in the coulee bottoms and riverbanks. Too coarse in my opinion for model work. Bill
  12. reklein
    Some folks have had good luck with the $1.99 rattle cans found at Wal-Mart. Not that I'm a big fan of Wal-Mart but the price is right for a product that works.
  13. reklein
    I would like to recommend Vectorcut at www.vectorcut.com for some very fine laser cut details including some shipmodel parts such as ships wheels and decks not to mention bolts washers and hand tools in different scales. Bill
  14. reklein
    That photo is crazy, Shouldn't be too hard to get a good set of plans and resize em at Staples to the sczle you want. The way most of the European kits come ya have to rebuild or replace kit wood and parts anyway. One of these days I'm gonna start my canadian plans for the Nonsuch. BILL
  15. reklein
    You might achieve the effect you want by rigging your model with oversize stunsails instead of something like spinnakers. Depends on the ere you want to model. Bill
  16. reklein
    Crackers ,Wow that IS some finish. Whose work is that. Bill
  17. reklein
    If it were me, I would simply dye the material the color you want, then use the appropriate colored thread to sew with. Apparently the original Tanbark color was from a tree based preservative for cotton canvas sails to protect the material for mold,rot and mildew. Having tried the tea and coffee route I think you'd get better results from fabric dye such as RIT. Bill
  18. reklein
    This whole build is NICE !!!. Bill in Idaho
  19. reklein
    This thread made me wonder about Scandinavian sources for wood for the folks in the UK, or Canada for that matter. Does the UK still have commonwealth ties to Canada? Bill
  20. reklein
    The jewelers saw works very well specially in the harder types of wood. Be sure to get fine tooth blades. A rule of thumb for blades is to have three teeth on the thickness of materil being cut. So for example 1/8th inch material you'd need 24 TPI. (teeth per inch). On the other hand too fine of teeth on thicker material will cause the blade to clog and make sawing difficult. Bill
  21. reklein
    I can see a difficulty in maneuvering your pin nailer around on a crowded deck or even in the nooks and crannys of a hull only maybe not so much as the deck. I knew somebody would come up with the name of the model builder using that stapleing technique. Bill
  22. reklein
    N-scale figures are 1:160. Bill
  23. reklein
    Might work in the larger scales. Try it, and report back. There was a Russian technique for building hulls a few years back that might lend itself well to the use of a pin nailer. Anybody remember that series maybe Dr. Mike? or that Australian fellow who studied with him for awhile? Bill
  24. reklein
    There are a few vacumn base vises out there that work pretty well. After all we're not doing blacksmith work on em. Should suck down on a table without harm. Bill
  25. reklein
    Try backing the parts with masking tape before cutting out the parts, an then use the other guys suggestions for cutting.Bill

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