FriedClams

Nice start on the cradle Keith. I find, it’s always best to fall in line and keep the local authorities cheerful. Gary

Beautiful work OC. The muddy footwear on the injured looks great. I apologize if you’ve answered this before and I missed it, but do you ever use a liquid mask when painting these intricate figures, or is it all freehand? Your detail work is always so clean and crisp. Gary

Greetings, Nothing ever works out according to my original plans - but sometimes it works out for the best. Thanks Keith. Glad to have you looking in Wefalck, and thanks for the comment. I'm not sure that I fully understand your question, but I'm thinking yes, your interpretation is correct. I actually don't consider this particular model to be a diorama and I was careful not to use the term in the title, calling it a shadowbox display instead. The drawing shown in your post is generic and a reference for constructing all my shadowboxes. It labels the model space as the “diorama area” even though it is not applicable to this current model. I do, however, consider two of the four mini displays I've made, to actually be dioramas; the boat shop and the 1940 garage. The distinction being that both of those contain images behind the model that is seen through the windows. In example, the boat shop. Top view. The definition of a diorama (as I understand it) is the 3D representation of something placed in a landscape and semi enclosed by a painted or photo backdrop. By that definition, none of my displays are true dioramas. But modelers have come to accept and understand that the term simply refers to a scale model placed in a setting that provides added context for the object, with or without a backdrop. Reading back through my first two posts, I see I should be more consistent in the terms I use when referring to these displays. But I hope that answers you question. Thanks. Thank you, Paul. Glad to have you following Colin. I hope you find something useful here. Thanks OC. It is fun trying to put some age on these walls. Thanks to all for the likes and for looking. Be safe and stay well. Gary

Hello Fellow Modelers. Thank you Egilman, Jack, Paul, Keith, Roger, OC., Dan, Mark and Ken for your warm reception and comments. I'm very pleased to have you following along. And thanks to all for the likes and for stopping to take a look. The model display is built as a separate module and simply fits into a rabbeted cutout in the face frame of the shadow box. The box and how the module fits into it looks like this. The box is made from 1/2” poplar which is glued and clamped together. All pieces are mitered, and the only fastenings are a few beech biscuits that hold the face frame to the body. Poplar is soft enough to work easily, yet hard enough to maintain crisp edges. After sanding to the point where my fingers would no longer bend, a coating of pre-stain wood conditioner was applied to help promote uniform stain absorption and avoid a splotchy finish. Some furniture stain and few coats of semi-gloss poly complete the box. Having lived with myself for quite some time, I know that if I build the vehicle first and it turns out all wrong, I might just be tempted to drop the whole project. Therefore, I'll outsmart myself and build the stage first. Here's a top down view of the stage, just a rectangular room. The main lighting for the display will be “outside” lighting coming through the open door on the right, and from the windows along the back wall. The stairway provides some visual interest in the back corner, but it will also serve as a way to illuminate that end of the display. Light will shine down from the top of the staircase (where it penetrates the ceiling) and cast shadows through and across the stairs. Fill light will also be needed in the form a few ceiling pendants. In the back wall drawing, the rectangular blue line represents the front opening of the shadowbox. There will be no front view of the upper stairs because it's located behind the face frame. Having only a partial side view of the upper staircase means the light source at the top won't be seen directly. The walls are a steel frame structure with brick infill. The “steel” is Evergreen columns and I-beams. It is assembled with solvent cement and primed with Badger Stynylrez gray. After the primer dried, small amounts of rust colored pigment powders were applied. Finally, graphite powder was scraped off a #2 pencil and rubbed on with a small silicone color shaper to give select areas an uneven metallic look. The wall sections are cut (razor saw) from blank panels of Hydrocal brick material. Cutting the window openings was a tedious file and fit operation because it had to be exact in order to accept the injected molded windows. Masonry window frames fit into the wall and they don't have jambs or outer casing trim to cover gaps. I'm using up some older HO brick stock from C.C. Crow which I'm not sure is even sold anymore. Typically, I use material from New England Brownstone. Because I'll be using indirect lighting, I think dark walls would suck all the light out of it, so I decided on painting the brick white. But I want to be able to pull some of that white layer off to reveal the red brick underneath. I always use gouache to color hydrocal/plaster because it is dead flat, blends color easily, and I like the results. But I can't use gouache here because the slightest bit of moisture reactivates it, so washes and over painting are not possible. A different approach was required, and I ran into some unexpected difficulties. First, was the tendency of both layers of paint to pull off together, when I all wanted was the top layer to chip off. Sometimes it took plaster with it. Also, I only want the white layer to pull off the face of the bricks and leave the paint behind in the grout lines. Using the old hairspray standby to release the upper layer wasn't the answer because that method is unpredictable, and the paint chipped wherever it wanted and not just off the face of the individual bricks. I'm not in love with the result, but here's what I ended up doing. First, I pre-wet the hydrocal with straight water, lots of it. Then I applied a heavy, soupy layer of burnt sienna acrylic and let it soak in and dry overnight. The idea is to penetrate the surface of the hydrocal with color so it can't pull off easily. I then applied white acrylic primer as a topcoat because it clung tenaciously in the grout lines. Using straight acrylic paint simply pulled off in sheets, which I'll remember if I ever want that look. Then using cellophane tape, I pulled the primer off in controllable chunks by burnishing the tape down with my thumbnail wherever I wanted it removed. As a bonus, the primer pulled at the lower layer of paint unevenly leaving the sienna darker in some spots than others. Although it took some time to get to, the process is easy, and the result is passable. Batteries not included and your mileage may vary. Continuing on, I plowed out cavities for the I-beam headers. Windows from Tichy Train Group were set into the opening. The window is only 3/8” away from the back of the shadowbox, so I want obscure what will be seen through it. To that end, I dirtied up a piece of acetate with PVA and powders for the glazing. Also, on top of that is a blackened brass “security grate”. The grating material is from Clover House. The completed wall section shown backlit. Three sections make up the back wall. I bricked up the single window because I decided against any additional back lighting for the vehicle, the one double window will be enough. The left wall gets a man door beneath the stairway. A gap under the door allows space for the floorboards. And the main open doorway occupies most of the right wall. Thanks for taking a look and I wish everyone a healthy and happy new year. Be safe and stay well. Gary

Happy new year to you and yours OC. Gary

Nice progress Jean Paul. Good method for placing that center deck plank. Gary

Nice update Grant! This structure is looking great and has a wonderful overall feel. Don't beat yourself up over the glue stains, we all do it of course and I sometimes feel that I spend more time mitigating my flubs than anything else. But when I look at images on the web of real-life buildings, boats or whatever, they are rarely pristine and often it's those irregularities that brings them to life. Have a great 2023! Gary

Greetings Fellow Modelers, I've begun work on a new shadowbox display and have decided to bore you with the details of its construction. This will be the fourth shadowbox model that I've built, and because it's easier to show than to describe what these shadowbox displays are all about, here's a few photos of the three I've already made. This was my first and simplest design. The model insert itself is 4-7/8” wide (124mm) by 2-1/4” high (57mm) and 2-1/2” deep (64mm). That was followed by this more complicated boat shop. Same physical size as the first one. And finally, a 1940 garage scene that I built last year. It is the same height and depth as the other two, but half again as wide to accommodate the details I wanted it to include. A build log for the garage display can be found here. This new display will differ from the others in the sense that its only purpose is to provide a display stage for interchangeable 1:87 truck models and other vehicles. When I tire of looking at one vehicle, I can replace it with something else. The “stage” will be the interior of an empty old building. There will be no “things” in the building to visually compete with the subject. What the vehicle is doing in the building is ambiguous and no real story is being offered. Maybe it's just being stored there, away from the weather and out of the reach of vandals. I don't know. My goal is simply to provide an atmospheric backdrop for whatever vehicle is placed in there. Initially, a 1938-1941 Mack FK truck tractor will be displayed. I haven't built it yet, so that too will be part of this build log. It's a resin kit from Ralph Ratcliffe Models and I found it on eBay quite a few years ago. I bought it because it looked interesting, was out of production and very few people were bidding on it, so I ended up getting it cheap. RR Models is once again producing these kits (at a steep price) and their castings are characteristically clean and crisp, especially considering the scale. I've never built a resin kit before, so if it turns out badly, I'll have to build something else to take its place. But eventually, something will be going in there, even if it's the toy out of a Happy Meal. Here's a photo from their website. The model is just under 3” long. I'll be putting some wear on my build of the kit. Ralph Ratcliffe Models I've already begun work this project and in the next few posts, I'll bring things up to date. Thanks for stopping in and taking a look. Be safe and stay well. Gary

Congratulations on completing this amazing model Valeriy. It is one of the finest models I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing it with us and I will miss your updates. I wish you peace and safety in the new year.

Extraordinary work Keith - just wonderful. Looking forward to the final glamour shots. Gary

Congratulations to you and David on the completion of such a wonderful model. She is truly stunning. Inspirational. Gary

Good to hear your recovery is going well Jean Paul. Wishing you a healthy and happy new year. Gary

Very nice progress Roger! Gary

Season’s greetings Keith! Wishing you and yours, peace and happiness for the new year. Gary

Hello Paul. I Just read through your log and congratulations on completing your third model. It turned out very nicely indeed. The Swampscott has a beautiful shear line, but the wide planks make it a challenge to fit. I find that the narrower a boat's planks, even if there are 2 or 3 times as many, the simpler the boat is to build. Will be watching for your next build - see what Santa brings you. Gary

Hello Ken. I don't know how I missed this build, but I'm caught up now. I've never built a bread & butter hull, but it looks to be an interesting process. I must try it sometime. Your persistence in planking is admired and will no doubt produce a great end result. Looking forward to future updates. Gary

Congratulations Brian on completing this beautiful model. Truly something to be proud of. Wonderful. Gary

Looking really good, nice progress Grant. Gary

Yes indeed - I second that! Perfect, exacting work Alexander! Gary

Wonderful work Keith. Gary

Just catching up Brian. Beautiful work on the flag. The color and value of both red and blue are spot on - natural realistic drape as well. That handsome slab of wood will make a wonderful base/stand. Gary

Wonderful work as always Keith. Superb! What a sweet detail. Gary

Nice progress Grant! I really like the shingle coloration - subtle and realistic. Excellent work. Gary

Beautiful model - great craftsmanship! Gary

This is a great looking model Steve with wonderful work all around. I especially like the tow winch. Gary