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Everything posted by FriedClams
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Hello George, Been reading through your log and you've selected an interesting subject and are off to a great start. Here's a couple of on-line sources for scale basswood lumber. They mainly serve the model RR hobby, so their offerings are in "O", "HO" and "S" scale, but they also carry limited fractional dimensional sizes as well. Because you're working in 1:72 you'd have to do the conversion math to find what will work as a close substitution. I planked my current hull with wood from Northeastern. In my situation, because I'm working in 1:48, I converted their "O" scale sizes (1:43) to find a close match. I purchased the planks for the hull in the thickness I wanted, but in a width that was wider than I needed. I used a miniature plane to trim down each plank individually for width and taper. I feel the Mt. Albert product may be a higher quality, but it all gets filed and sanded in the end. Mt Albert Scale Lumber Mt. Albert Scale Lumber Information – Fast Tracks (handlaidtrack.com) Northeastern Scale Lumber O Scale Lumber - Products (northeasternscalelumber.com Good luck on your first scratch build. Have fun. Gary
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I like the gantry/frame alignment jig - your own design and construction I presume. Oh, please don't speak of these things Andy as I have a growing list of unpleasant chores awaiting my attention. Arrgh! Gary
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Great work on those frames, Andy! Authentic natural coloration also - like the real deal. Very cool marking gauge set. Gary
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Greetings fellow modelers. Thank you for your comments and likes! Here's a short update. The hull has been cut away from the station form extensions using a 1.25” diameter circular saw chucked into a Dremel rotary tool. This is a somewhat dicey procedure because the rotating blade is just looking for an excuse to hop from the cut and remove a chunk of sheer strake instead. But a strong grip on the tool keeps a pinched blade from jumping and makes quick work of the task at hand. However, I do not recommend this method to sensible modelers. Even though the hull planks were edge glued to each other, I decided to add reinforcing card strips between the station forms, which I glued into place with breathtaking amounts of CA. Finally, I “painted” the entire interior with a 50/50 water/PVA solution to resist warping caused by humidity swings. In the previous post I pointed out a few hull planks that were recessed - not flush with the adjacent planks. I used wood shavings to build them up and then sanded them back. Also, I removed material from the lower hull planks at the keel and stern post. These planks previously stood proud and are now flush. A shout-out to John, Andy and Håkan for clearing this matter up for me. Being primarily a model builder with a secondary interest in boats/ships, my understanding of boat construction at the nuts-and-bolts level on anything larger than an open boat is a bit sketchy. The knowledge base and ready willingness of MSW members to help, inform and encourage has made every model that I've built on this forum better and more accurate because of that input. Thank you! More hull filing/sanding and cleaning up is still needed. And I've done nothing yet to finish the backbone assembly. Thanks for stopping by. Be safe and stay well. Gary
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You're not wasting any time after finishing up your Ergenstrasse build, Nils. Good luck on this new interesting project. Gary
- 291 replies
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- lightship
- Feuerschiff Elbe 1
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Keith, this news is heartbreaking and I'm so saddened that the two of you are having to endure such an event. It is good that you found Maggie so quickly after the event as time is critical in these situations. I pray for you both and wish Maggie a full and speedy recovery. Be strong. Gary
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Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
FriedClams replied to Ondras71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Fantastic work on that boat, Ondras! Beautiful! Gary -
Indeed! I think a common misimpression about wooden boat/ship building is that the work is rudimentary, imprecise and maybe even a bit crude, when in fact the exact opposite is true. I much respect these folks that have the knowledge and skill to build, re-build and repair these vessels. Thanks for the details in how you're assembling the frames. I'll reference this if I ever summon the courage to build a fully framed model of my own. That go-bar press is clever and like Keith, I had never seen it before. I can see why it would be just the ticket for stringed instrument makers. Coming along nicely, Andy. Gary
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Great discussions on steam pipe insulating and coal storage. Nice looking deck and very nice progress overall, Eric. Gary
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It appears to be a split phase induction motor which means there are no brushes, but it may have an internal centrifugal switch. If it runs when you give it a push with the stick it is most likely the start capacitor. But some configurations use the capacitor to shift the phase angle in a separate stator winding that disconnects through the centrifugal switch once it starts turning. These are more typically used where a higher starting torque is needed, so I doubt this motor is configured in that way. But if the capacitor doesn't fix it, check behind the rear bearing end plate for the presence of a switch. Gary
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How is it possible that I've not visited this build until now! So many ongoing builds here at MSW that one cannot read them all. But over a few sessions I have read your log in its entirety, and I'm now caught up. This build strikes me as not only an amazing boat model construction, but also I fine woodworking project. Wonderful work Håkan! I was saddened to read of your health problems but happy to hear that it is now behind you. As a cancer survivor myself I know the anxiety and uncertainty that accompanies that damn disease. Cheers to your success and a bright future. Great job on the planking (and everything else) - she is looking fantastic. Will be following along. Gary
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Just picked up on this build this afternoon and read your log from the beginning. Congratulations on another great and imaginative model. The execution of the SIB itself is wonderful, but placing it into an appropriate environment that is believable and realistic makes it extra special. Great work! Gary
- 174 replies
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- Waa Kaulua
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Catching up Marc and nice clean work on the trunnion repositioning. I have several Xuron cutters/snips, and they have held up OK. Never used PE snips, but all the Xuron tools that I have use bypass blades to cut, like garden pruners or scissors which is great for some jobs, but not so much for others. I realize that you've already replaced your snips, but for cutting wire no matter how fine, I always use a small pair of precision flush cutters. Keep up the great work - will be watching for your next update. Gary
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Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
FriedClams replied to KORTES's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Sad to see your first effort go to the trash bin, especially as you planked it so beautifully. But your old method produced a very fine boat. Very nice work, Alexander. Gary -
A daunting amount of framing components, Andy. I look forward to seeing this framing being pieced together. Nice progress. Gary
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Nice job on the display case, Nils. The metal corner pieces are an elegant touch. Now your beautiful model has a safe, clean home. Congratulations on another great project. Gary
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Nice progress being made here, Keith. HA! - quit clowning around, there's work to be done. Gary
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